Ross Mac Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 Hi Im going to be replacing my full brake setup of F&R Pads and F&R Discs next week. After reading a few how to's I reckon that as long as I take my time and keep my reference material to hand I should be ok (touch wood as Im no mechanic) Many of the guides make reference to having a c clamp to force the pistons back into the caliper once the old pads have been removed. Do I need said clamp or will a bit of old fashioned brute force do the trick? If I need it then I need it, but just wanted to double check before I get too far and realise its an integral part of the process... Cheers Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunset350z Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 No you don't need it, just keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir when forcing the pistons back in. I didnt and fluid spilled out washed it down with plenty of soapy water so no damage done thank heavens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M13KYF Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 make sure you remove the lid from the brake reservoir so to relieve any pressure. A thick/large screw drive is fine to push the pistons back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletMagnet Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 When taking the lid off, just stick an old rag around the opening to catch any potential overspill. I have a huge syringe to extract brakefluid first from my local pharmacy (they did ask me what I was going to use it for tho...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Mac Posted April 1, 2009 Author Share Posted April 1, 2009 Thats great guys thanks - Im sure Ive got a big screwdriver that I can put to use!! I'll keep you updated as to how I get on:thumbs: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim S Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 I managed to push the pistons back in with the old pads inserted into the space between the disc and caliper at right angles so they stick out of the front of the caliper, pad material on the disc side, levering against the discs. If using this method make sure you leave the pad on the other side of the caliper in (or you'll just push those pistons out) and make sure you push both pistons at once at the front or the one you're not pushing gets pushed out. If you're using a big screwdriver mind the piston seals! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xStric9x Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 Changing my pads and disks this weekend Pads are fairly easy but never done the disks before Shame you packed everything CS could of done with FL,FR,RL,RR stuck on the disks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Mac Posted April 9, 2009 Author Share Posted April 9, 2009 Righto, car is jacked up and front wheel is off but have already met with a snag - I am trying the remove the 2 big (22mm) bolts that hold the caliper on. Ive soaked them in WD40 but I cant get em to budge in either direction!! Which way should the bolt rotate to loosen it as I look at the disc? Im currently doing the driver side front - do i turn it down towards the ground(clockwise as i look at it) or back up the other way? None of the guides say which way it should turn - i knew it would be stiff but it would help if anyone has an idea and can post back quickly so I can crack on!! Thanks for your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletMagnet Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 when looking at the bolt head, it should be righty tighty and lefty loosey....no? So if the bolts are facing away from you (i.e. on the inside) then reverse that. http://350zmotoring.com/forums/diy-gara ... bleed.html A rubber mallet\hammer is a good investment, but tap it lightly and steady the spanner on the bolt head with your free hand, so you don't risk rounding it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Mac Posted April 9, 2009 Author Share Posted April 9, 2009 Thats the guide Im using! Ok so if i use that principle then i rotate the bolt upwards. I'll give it a go and report back. Any other tips on loosening very tight bolts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletMagnet Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 Well, you basically got it, WD40 soak, spanner & rubber mallet technique work for me everytime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fletch Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 Its better if you can get a ring spanner to go on it, then just bray the hell out of it with a lump hammer, once it lets go its fine. Fletch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletMagnet Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 yeah, thanks Fletch, I did mean to say ring spanner, to me a spanner is a spanner, cos most of them have one open side and one ring side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbiscuit Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 other option is to heat thewm up with a blow torch, this sometimes works with exhaust bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 How did you get on Ross? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bernmc Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Bit late for this, but leverage is king in these situations. A tenner spent on a nice long breaker bar - like these: http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Tool-Shop/Breaker-Bars - will save you so much blood, sweat & knuckles. Not a fan of the Mallet Method myself - too much potential for smiting something else, or rounding the bolt when the spanner slips prior to smacking you in the head! I've also never found it necessary to open the brake fluid resevoir when changing pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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