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C-Clamp - Is it needed when replacing pads?


Ross Mac

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Hi

 

Im going to be replacing my full brake setup of F&R Pads and F&R Discs next week.

 

After reading a few how to's I reckon that as long as I take my time and keep my reference material to hand I should be ok (touch wood as Im no mechanic)

 

Many of the guides make reference to having a c clamp to force the pistons back into the caliper once the old pads have been removed.

 

Do I need said clamp or will a bit of old fashioned brute force do the trick? If I need it then I need it, but just wanted to double check before I get too far and realise its an integral part of the process...

 

Cheers

Ross

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I managed to push the pistons back in with the old pads inserted into the space between the disc and caliper at right angles so they stick out of the front of the caliper, pad material on the disc side, levering against the discs.

 

If using this method make sure you leave the pad on the other side of the caliper in (or you'll just push those pistons out) and make sure you push both pistons at once at the front or the one you're not pushing gets pushed out.

 

If you're using a big screwdriver mind the piston seals!

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Righto, car is jacked up and front wheel is off but have already met with a snag -

 

I am trying the remove the 2 big (22mm) bolts that hold the caliper on.

 

Ive soaked them in WD40 but I cant get em to budge in either direction!!

 

Which way should the bolt rotate to loosen it as I look at the disc?

 

Im currently doing the driver side front - do i turn it down towards the ground(clockwise as i look at it) or back up the other way?

 

None of the guides say which way it should turn - i knew it would be stiff but it would help if anyone has an idea and can post back quickly so I can crack on!!

 

Thanks for your help

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when looking at the bolt head, it should be righty tighty and lefty loosey....no?

So if the bolts are facing away from you (i.e. on the inside) then reverse that.

 

http://350zmotoring.com/forums/diy-gara ... bleed.html

 

A rubber mallet\hammer is a good investment, but tap it lightly and steady the spanner on the bolt head with your free hand, so you don't risk rounding it off.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Bit late for this, but leverage is king in these situations. A tenner spent on a nice long breaker bar - like these: http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Tool-Shop/Breaker-Bars - will save you so much blood, sweat & knuckles.

 

Not a fan of the Mallet Method myself - too much potential for smiting something else, or rounding the bolt when the spanner slips prior to smacking you in the head!

 

I've also never found it necessary to open the brake fluid resevoir when changing pads.

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