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Traction Control Frustration...


nate247

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Well thinking about this (as I do actually quite like my alloy's for now). Should / could I just get some new better fitting for the alloy's? Or do the alloys only allow these ill fitting tire's?

 

These are my alloys. Whilst probably not the best brand or lightest. they do look quite good on my Silver 350z.

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As long as you like them, that's all that matters matey!

 

As for new tyres, it depends. They're not going to be cheap, but are they going to be cheaper than repair bills if you ditch your car and you know you could've done something about it? I know I bang on about this a bit on here, but the tyres are the only thing keeping you in contact with the road so personally I would fit the very best you can and then worry about the rest of the car. I've just seen too many posts on various car forums over the years where people have questioned why they should bother putting decent and/or correctly sized rubber on their car, and then post up a week later saying they've binned it. It never gets any less upsetting to read, and I'd hate that to happen to you matey, especially when you already don't feel comfortable with the car.

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I would of said the tyres but plenty beaten me to it. Incorrect rolling radius causing the problem

 

Sorry to say guys but im running 40 prof instead of 45 all over and the ESP is the same if not better that the stock....n i v got a really heavy foot n been twice on the track since....second time at Cadwell Park with 2 degrees and damp track....it could be because the tyres are worn out but i would assume a fault with the sensors.... i would try n plug the car in with the diagnostics first and reset any faults and the ESP....and then change tyres....10mm difference is not that much....

 

ps....ESP stops working when the car gets balanced again regardless of what your right foot is doing....and it does allow both wheels to spin...it only kicks in during unbalanced spinning...

 

Now that i said it....is there any chance that you v got different rear tyres...or unevenly worn out ones???? ;)

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Sorry to say guys but im running 40 prof instead of 45 all over and the ESP is the same if not better that the stock....n i v got a really heavy foot n been twice on the track since....second time at Cadwell Park with 2 degrees and damp track....it could be because the tyres are worn out but i would assume a fault with the sensors.... i would try n plug the car in with the diagnostics first and reset any faults and the ESP....and then change tyres....10mm difference is not that much....

But what width? Profile alone doesn't alter the height of the sidewall, only in conjunction with the width. For example, 255/40 would be better than 265/35 IYSWIM.

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I know I bang on about this a bit on here, but the tyres are the only thing keeping you in contact with the road.

 

Exactly what I grew up with as my old man has always said the same.

 

Like you say, its suprising though just how many people scrimp on the only thing keeping them on the road... You are 100% right matey.

 

Thats why I am trying to work out if there is a prob or not... :wacko:

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I have had my tc kicking in a little more the last week or two but the problem being is my driving style. The road's are full of salt and muck, not really had a good downpour of rain so i find the road surface very slippery. Most turning's i pull out from if i put my foot down even a little is causing my tc light to kick-in !!

I run standard 18's and there is nothing wrong with my tyres.

You have not had your car long, and imo these z's do not take much to have fun at the rear end even in the dry.

I am around tomorrow daytime if you have nothing to do and i will pop over and we can test our wheels/tyres even swap them over for a comparison if you want.

 

:D

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Sorry to say guys but im running 40 prof instead of 45 all over and the ESP is the same if not better that the stock....n i v got a really heavy foot n been twice on the track since....second time at Cadwell Park with 2 degrees and damp track....it could be because the tyres are worn out but i would assume a fault with the sensors.... i would try n plug the car in with the diagnostics first and reset any faults and the ESP....and then change tyres....10mm difference is not that much....

But what width? Profile alone doesn't alter the height of the sidewall, only in conjunction with the width. For example, 255/40 would be better than 265/35 IYSWIM.

 

225/40/18 and 245/40/18 michellin ps2....1cm lower ride! ;)

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:lol:

 

Is that the only reason you didn't go for the 45s? I run the PS2s as well but in stock sizes, by far the best tyre I've ever used if a little pricey.

 

nope...got kw v1 25mm down as well...40's were much cheaper that stock sizes...next time i ll go for wider ones as well...actually i wish it was 1cm higher for every day driving...but i love my track days too... :lol::lol::lol:

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I am around tomorrow daytime if you have nothing to do and i will pop over and we can test our wheels/tyres even swap them over for a comparison if you want. :D

 

Are you traveling to see your parents buddy?

 

Only problem I have is that I am at work tomorrow until 6pm. I am generally doing bugger all after the time of 3.30pm on a Friday but still got to man the office :(

 

Shame I haven't got the day off or you were down Saturday instead of Friday as it would have been great to meet up... :thumbs:

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Bit late here, but agree with Ekona.

 

A couple of my mates here have similar problems in terms of the vdc or tcs going mental. First thing I've asked in these situations is what sized tyres are being run. Each time when they've been changed back to the correct rolling radius problems have completely disappeared.

 

Good luck, let us know how you get on.

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Agree here too its the tyres.

 

The front tyre size of 235/40/18 is fine, but to match this your rear tyres should be 255/40/18.

 

This is the setu i have on my car and i have no TC isuues at all.

 

So if you swap the rear tyres to some of 255/40/18, your problem should go away.

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I am around tomorrow daytime if you have nothing to do and i will pop over and we can test our wheels/tyres even swap them over for a comparison if you want. :D

 

Are you traveling to see your parents buddy?

 

Only problem I have is that I am at work tomorrow until 6pm. I am generally doing bugger all after the time of 3.30pm on a Friday but still got to man the office :(

 

Shame I haven't got the day off or you were down Saturday instead of Friday as it would have been great to meet up... :thumbs:

 

I start work tonight at 6pm until midnight. Funny is that i am over the Kingswood way Saturday but that will be in the wife's astra with all 4 of us.LOL

Will have to make it another time now, ie xmas getting in the way. :D

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Its not just about rolling radius the "same as stock" guys, its about keeping the stagger back to front correct. Standard wheels, Rays, GT4 wheels all have different rolling radius IRRC but the stagger is the same. I run 245/35/18 and 275/35/18 which are both under the stock rolling radius of the Rays, almost 5% out, but they keep the front to back stagger of rolling radius correct and thats the important thing. I dont have any problems with TC.

 

You need to check that the front to back stagger of RR is the same, I'm being too lazy to check :blush:

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Its not just about rolling radius the "same as stock" guys, its about keeping the stagger back to front correct. Standard wheels, Rays, GT4 wheels all have different rolling radius IRRC but the stagger is the same. I run 245/35/18 and 275/35/18 which are both under the stock rolling radius of the Rays, almost 5% out, but they keep the front to back stagger of rolling radius correct and thats the important thing. I dont have any problems with TC.

But your stagger is 10mm different to stock, so it's not the same.

 

245 - 225 = 20

275 - 245 = 30

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Its not just about rolling radius the "same as stock" guys, its about keeping the stagger back to front correct. Standard wheels, Rays, GT4 wheels all have different rolling radius IRRC but the stagger is the same. I run 245/35/18 and 275/35/18 which are both under the stock rolling radius of the Rays, almost 5% out, but they keep the front to back stagger of rolling radius correct and thats the important thing. I dont have any problems with TC.

But your stagger is 10mm different to stock, so it's not the same.

 

245 - 225 = 20

275 - 245 = 30

How would the stagger in width effect the TC? I meant the stagger in the rolling radius of the wheens front to back. All it can go on is how quick the wheels are spinning. Its the difference between the rolling radius of the front and rear wheels that matters ;) TC monitors the speed of the front and rear wheels and when the rears spin quicker than the fronts by a certain amount it cuts power to pull in the spin. Also this is the setup that Phil recommended me and I trust it 100%. The TC works just as before.

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Right, I get what you mean now. You're on about keeping the rolling radius of each corner the same as stock, which is essentially what we've been saying as well. I've never personally heard the difference between front RR and rear RR referred to as stagger, that's normally used for the differing widths, I think that's where the confusion crept in.

 

You're quite right though, the most important thing is to keep the RR as close to stock as is possible, which is why when you go up in width you may need to drop a profile.

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Right, I get what you mean now. You're on about keeping the rolling radius of each corner the same as stock, which is essentially what we've been saying as well. I've never personally heard the difference between front RR and rear RR referred to as stagger, that's normally used for the differing widths, I think that's where the confusion crept in.

 

You're quite right though, the most important thing is to keep the RR as close to stock as is possible, which is why when you go up in width you may need to drop a profile.

Kind of. From what Phils explained to me, it doesnt matter if your RR isnt the same as stock, as long as the difference or ratio between the front and back is the same. Mine are smaller RR than stock, but as I keep the ratio front to back, the TC is fine. If you think about it, it works by measuring the difference in speed between front and rear. If you keep the ratio the same, it doesnt matter if the wheels are bigger or smaller than stock, it just thinks you are going quicker or slower than you really are.

 

So when we say you need to keep RR the same as stock, thats not strictly true. You need to keep the ratio of RR front to rear the same :thumbs:

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Right, I get what you mean now. You're on about keeping the rolling radius of each corner the same as stock, which is essentially what we've been saying as well. I've never personally heard the difference between front RR and rear RR referred to as stagger, that's normally used for the differing widths, I think that's where the confusion crept in.

 

You're quite right though, the most important thing is to keep the RR as close to stock as is possible, which is why when you go up in width you may need to drop a profile.

Kind of. From what Phils explained to me, it doesnt matter if your RR isnt the same as stock, as long as the difference or ratio between the front and back is the same. Mine are smaller RR than stock, but as I keep the ratio front to back, the TC is fine. If you think about it, it works by measuring the difference in speed between front and rear. If you keep the ratio the same, it doesnt matter if the wheels are bigger or smaller than stock, it just thinks you are going quicker or slower than you really are.

 

So when we say you need to keep RR the same as stock, thats not strictly true. You need to keep the ratio of RR front to rear the same :thumbs:

 

+1 although a bit simplified.... :D

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