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evilscorp

VG30DETT manifolds on VQ35DE

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Just thought I would start a post for anyone searching the internet and stumbling on a post that implied that it was a straight fit. Well it isn’t. 

 

I have a spare VQ35DE head (passenger side I think) and bought some 300zx twin turbo exhaust manifolds off eBay VG30DETT engine.

The vq can have exhaust studs in multiple configurations and the VG manifolds looked like they might just need them swapped around.

 

Well the middle port and studs match up perfectly. . . The front port only has one matching stud point and I am not sure if there is enough metal to grind away on the manifold to make the other stud point work. Also there is a water port (I think) on the vq head that would need the flange area reduced but it’s close to the threaded bolt hole.

The rear port is slightly forward of the matching one on the block but could be fixed with the dremel except the part you would need to dremel is the area you would need to make the stud hole larger to have the rear most stud line up. 

:-/

i will post pictures later.

not sure if I would like to use a manifold adapter plate and how effective they are?

 

 

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I’ve always wondered if the R35 manifolds would fit. Never found a set cheap enough to try it though 

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These are my spares as they tend to crack, however, this is what you need:

 

 

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9 minutes ago, ZMANALEX said:

These are my spares as they tend to crack, however, this is what you need:

 

 

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Yes they would be nice Alex and if I was properly going the turbo route I would want a set of them or the JWT manifolds but I am happy to plod along and eventually plan to test how much I can get from my Vortech SCi small blower.

 

But I like to tinker and plan wayyyyyy wayyyy in advance, so took a punt at trying to play with some 300zx manifolds I got off ebay for £70.

 

Is your spare set a VG30DETT with a new flange cut and welded on?

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Checked an old gasket which I had kicking about (not sure if its left or right hand bank) but it actually makes the process of drilling new holes seem like it might work? 67396035_10162155605615441_4437627490889

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They are genuine HKS VQ35DE  manifolds Gary which I originally ran with my HKS2530 turbos.

 

How are you planning on coupling up your exhaust to the turbo flanges?

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probably use a mixture of sr20 turbo elbows and custom y-pipe, the engine combo would probably go into the 200sx s14a I have once I blow up that engine hopefully a while away.

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1 hour ago, ZMANALEX said:

They are genuine HKS VQ35DE  manifolds Gary which I originally ran with my HKS2530 turbos.

 

How are you planning on coupling up your exhaust to the turbo flanges?

I am surprised cast manifolds crack, so you have two sets of the same kind? 

 

are the HKS turbos different or same orientation? I have heard I may encounter issues with the wastegate actuator being too close to the block, 

I have the oem sr20 turbo laying about so I might have a mock up of the lot if I get time, as I mentioned its just for fun keeping my mind thinking.

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11 hours ago, evilscorp said:

I am surprised cast manifolds crack, so you have two sets of the same kind? 

 

are the HKS turbos different or same orientation? I have heard I may encounter issues with the wastegate actuator being too close to the block, 

I have the oem sr20 turbo laying about so I might have a mock up of the lot if I get time, as I mentioned its just for fun keeping my mind thinking.

Oh yes they crack alright as many peeps including myself found out:

 

There are quite a few images on the web relating to this issue.

 

The HKS 2530 turbos and actuators are a tight fit with one actuator fixed to the turbo and the other being remote.

 

The Garrett GT2860 turbos which I am running now are as above with the same shoehorn and over-temperature challenges.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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38 minutes ago, ZMANALEX said:

Oh yes they crack alright as many peeps including myself found out:

 

There are quite a few images on the web relating to this issue.

 

The HKS 2530 turbos and actuators are a tight fit with one actuator fixed to the turbo and the other being remote.

 

The Garrett GT2860 turbos which I am running now are as above with the same shoehorn and over-temperature challenges.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Cheers Alex,

 

Looks like they just shaved a bit too much metal off to give the cap screw access, but that will probably be the same issue I will have with these hopefully not breaking through into a chamber.

 

As for the relocated actuator it does look hellishly close to the gearbox mounting face, are they mounted onto the upper engine oil pan with extended rods to make them fit?

 

Do you think you could fit a GTX2867 in there? Your compressor wheel does look very close to the manifold. (planned to upgrade the sr20 turbo to run a bit more power and then maybe down the line get another one lol or just use two oem sr20 turbos for the VQ.

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Yeah, I got HKS to replace a couple of manifolds under warranty and the replacement ones had more meat left on them, however, I have seen them crack all over the casting.

 

The remote actuator is mounted via a fabricated bracket and utilized existing holes in the head if I recall correctly, and hooked up with a fabricated adjustable extended rod.

 

The turbo with the actuator fitted to it can be set up on the bench, however, the turbo with the remote can only be tuned and synchronized in situ with a MityVac.

 

Not sure if the GTX2867 will fit or not I am afraid.

 

The 2530s fitted straight out the box, however, one of the Garrets required a bit of "fabrication" to get it to fit.

 

As I said shoehorned in.:)

 

 

 

 

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So this is going to be very tight with the stock sr20 turbos T28's 

Need to do some googling in how to clock turbos and if I need new seals to do it... if I do I might give test fitting a miss for a while. (so I can get the 200sx back on the road).

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So two holes need extending for the manifold and one other needs a cap screw as the studs are too long.

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need to also research 300zx turbos to see whats the largest they have used before.

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This is actually great info:thumbs:

 

i did wonder if it could be done, before spending 1600£ on stainless turbo manifolds due to cracking cast iron Gtm manifolds.:wacko:

 

is appears that it might be possible.

 

hell, I might give it a try at some point.

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Surprised how many of the big manufacturer cast manifolds crack, not something I expected and had assumed it was confined to thin stainless manifolds without support brackets.

How are your stainless ones preforming? 

They look like they would give better clearance from the block.

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So the other side is just the same, two opposite exhaust studs dont line up so will need to elongate the bolt holes.

67535848_10162200330915441_180268801568967584001_10162200331050441_142020770896267655774_10162200331205441_7993015626270

only sheered one stud.... but managed to get it off eventually.

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7 hours ago, evilscorp said:

Surprised how many of the big manufacturer cast manifolds crack, not something I expected and had assumed it was confined to thin stainless manifolds without support brackets.

How are your stainless ones preforming? 

They look like they would give better clearance from the block.

Mee too....

i thought that the cast iron was the Way to go....

 

my stainless are flawless.... so far.

 

much bigger inner dia. And port matched.

i did blow an exhaust gasket once, but from not tightening two bolts.

 

 

 

Edited by Ortega_9

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The t28 s14 garrett turbos should fit (well one side so far) Just might need to shave some spots off the compressor housing depending on rotation (should be fine if the outlet is facing down) and the exhaust housing slightly touches the gearbox mounting point, not sure if gaskets on the turbo will space it out enough or if it will need a couple of mm shaved off the block gearbox mounting point(you can see the shiny part it was touching).

Unfortunately as i was doing it myself and have removed the head studs i had to hold the turbo+manifold+cylinder head on the block so not ideal for getting measurements or fouling points.

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Bottom right part was the issue, standard engine mounts wont work either (probably).

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dirty turbo, I want a new seal but can't find them on their own yet.

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used a brass wire wheel on the outer area to clean up the oxidation, 

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Well I’ll have some ketchup with that hat please....

 

just pulled this of the car.
 

cracked!! but they do have a horrible life down there. After a pull with full launch and Als and the bells and whistles, they glow White for a couple of minuttes before coming back from the melting point.

 

I’ll machine the flanges again, and hope their done bending for now.

and get those cracks welded back up.

but still. This is repairable. My old Gtm castiron was scrap when they cracked. 

 

 

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