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Koukicuda S14A, 350z handmedowns.

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3 hours ago, LRF4N said:

Will that be your colour scheme? ;) 

lol not that bright but I do like British racing green, but in all honesty I like the oem colour, I think I bought a tin of it some where :lol: but if its totally out I will probably send it to a professional just like I need to do with the 350z lol,

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Today I thought I would pull the fuel pump out and see if my aeromotive 340 stealth pump (was supposed to go in the 350z.... but twin pump ftw in the future.) would fit.


The pump is a lot smaller than the OEM one but lucky me, it came with a foam jacket so should fit.


The old pump is hidden deep down inside the tank on a plastic bracket so not a fun job if you have fuel in your tank.(which I don't)




Now the issue is the OEM pump has the rubber locating grommet at the bottom which wont fit on the aeromotive item.

The fuel filter is also a lot longer so I have blown some air through the old one and gave it a wipe so I can reuse it. (seems most youtubers do this).

I could getto the pump like this guy.


But the thought of metal clips rubbing on the metal bracket is a No No to me, so I have emailed aeromotive to see if they make or sell a plastic/rubber locating thing for the bottom of their pump. If not I may need to buy a walbro as they do come with this part.

Started researching fuel filters and lines so I will probably order an inline 100pa metal type filter with 8AN braided lines as this will also suit the 350z's future fuel plans and future proof both projects.


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Just waiting for some S15 flywheel bolts to arrive before trying out different clutch bearing sleeves for correct air gap with my twin carbon ORC S15 clutch and flywheel but I really don't understand why people would bother machining the gearbox housing when the protuner adapter plate is there?
Also looking at gearbox mounting (yet to fit it up to the car, but have created some extra space with calibrated taps from 7lb hammer) it seems the holes on the oem (auto trans) mount align with the 350z gearbox bolt holes. a couple of hockey pucks and two longer bolts should work IMO.
Just remove the counter weight on the 350z box.
It will have worse NVH due to less side to side rotation but a hell of a lot cheaper and easier than some of the kits out there.

Just had a play with the oem shifter bracket and for me on a budget... I might just save the £250ish for a billet shifter and put the money elsewhere.

So after measuring how much metal rod is between the two U joints (10.5cm) and doing what other people do by cutting out the rod and welding the two U joints together I feel this shouldn't need too much cutting of the trans tunnel hole for the gear stick to come up to a normal'ish location for the gear knob.
So with two holes drilled inline with the original ones, I then cut off the excess.
still a bit interfering so more cutting.
The U bracket under the shifter should now be in a good place for welding.
Sadly one of the locating dowels got stuck and I need to remove it before the next stage at which I will use some sheet metal to create two legs back down to the oem bottom mounting holes to reduce any movement. Should have enough space to drill a small hole on the bottom Alu section for these to bolt to.


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nearly there with the shifter.
The issue when selecting 1/3/5 the linkage hits this point slightly.
Just needed trimming on the underside, fortunately its only for housing the spring.
I had to shave a lot more off the bottom but forgot to take pictures, I will get some tomorrow.
When in neutral or 2,4,6 the linkage is totally clear from the bottom but I will show that tomorrow.

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Spent the day looking at turbos, didnt plan to upgrade the oem one but my mind keeps imagining what else this car could become. Knowing that I will eventually stick my spare VQ35DE engine in the car I would like to transfer things over and I noticed the new G25 Garrett turbos can come in different rotations but don’t use a 5bolt flange like the SR20 uses however the Garrett GTX2863 would be the ideal size for the SR20 and two would give a good shove to a VQ35, issue is it can’t be bought in both rotations.


Since the VQ will have plenty of space in the S14, two turbos would be fun especially if I already have one left over from the SR20.

Research shows the 300zx VG30dett manifolds bolt straight to the VQ35 but people don’t use them because of issues with engine mounts? This shouldn’t be an issue with the custom mounts I will need anyway, but has anyone else got info on VG30DETT manifolds?

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Not sure if its just the crapspeed quality or not but the mount holes were very slightly off so I needed to elongate them with the dremel for 2mins.


But now I can use the oem gearbox brace, hopefully it will be close to aligning with the oem holes in the tunnel under the car.



Also stuck the engine mounts on so I dont loose them.


I got halfway through removing the diff bushes,


Just need to cut them out now.

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Forgot how much I hate 350z diffs.


So much chisel and sawzaw but with accurate blows and cuts so you don't nic the housing.


Then I wanted to give the 350z driveshafts a sproose up so they last a long time.


Anti rust.


anti rust primer.


Matte paint and some dashboard wipes to freshen up the rubber.


Too many belts x3.


Quite a hefty bracket and AC pump, one less belt to change also :lol:

I have managed to keep all the lines intact so if global warming gets worse and scotland ever needs AC its there to go on lol.

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350z coils going on the sr20det, just needed to switch around two pins on each connector, now I need to remove the standalone igniter, might save the hassle and buy the ebay wired plugs rather than solder 5wires.



Also need to find out which 350z coil doesnt work as my spare engine came with 7??? and the hold down bolts need a new bracket.


So this was ment to be a 200sx rear bumper..... 

like this.51804013_10161490782385441_3948403820790

bit of a faf but thats cheapo ebay for you.

New s15 6speed flywheel bolts compared with the autotrans ones.


The clutch came with some but dont want to loose my legs so no reusey! 


More cut and welding.




auto pilot bearing was a pia.



less viscous grease helps.


waiting on a new pilot bush for the flywheel before I install it.


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So protuner don't give you a manual, so had to figure this out myself.

Firstly the oem gasket is binned as I expect it would cause issues with the input shaft not inserting fully into the flywheel pilot bushing.

Then the starter motor needed the threaded holes bored out with a 10mm+ drill as the protuner plate has welded bolts so you can remove the starter motor without taking the engine and gearbox apart (handy?)




Then I cleaned up the back of the block with a wire wheel as it was a bit rusty and probably let water in a bit.

Most of the bolts are at the top of the gearbox and engine so wont be easy to split when its in the car.


Also used my 350z alignment tool which was handy, still need to torque everything and use locktight this is just trial fitting still for clearance issues.

Not sure why someone bothered to paint pen the central part of the clutch as it spins so nothing to do with balancing lol. Just hope thats what the marks are for.


This didn't work, too heavy to lift myself and unstable engine and the gearbox was at an angle so tried to adjust it......


So.... yeah.... there is still oil in it lol. Not sure how it didn't leak when I picked it up from Paul (or did he deliver lol) but it stated pissing out the output shaft...

Need to drain it then find a friend or move stuff about so I can have the engine attached to the hoist so it wont fall over if I get aggressive.


Took the old slave cylinder off (need a new one). Then poked the rubber dust boot in but its still in the way so I need to research how to remove the clips from the thrust bearing and pivot. As there is no inspection hatch I need some way to look inside and check what the airgap is like between the bearing and the pressure plate on the clutch... which I also need to find torque values for its bolts.

Not sure if I can use a 350z thrust bearing or if I have to switch to an sr20det one or use a spacer of some kind.... the testing continues.

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Ok that wasn't actually very hard.

Cleaned things up quickly with some brake cleaner but need to buy some more.


Fork and bearing carrier look ok and so does the pivot ball but I will clean them up better tomorrow and assess if I need new bits. I know people sell longer pivots so if I have any issues with engagement I should be able to fix them.


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Should have been welding more patches but instead wasting my time cleaning the front of the engine and removing the old belts (each accessory has its own tensioner bracket system.)


The crank pulley is very rusty so I might play it safe and get a new oem or superdamper depending on costs as the plan was originally fit the VQ35 as soon as possible but things change.

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So I found out the hard way after fitting it all together the pilot bush in the s15 flywheel needs moved to the crank shaft like s14s, as it wont go far enough over the input shaft.
This wont work lol.
but this will.
and all together.

Edited by evilscorp

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So nothing fits lol.
This was attempt no1 at fitting with japspeed engine mounts and 3"apexi? exhaust elbow.
Still sits 2" further back than oem shifter hole.
oem gearbox cross member is 2" out.
this bolt location on the gearbox hits the mounting location.
this side engine mount went in.
this side didn't 
bellhousing clearance is fine around the firewall.
exhaust elbow needs more grinding but it may ruin the flange sealing surface.
I don't want to grind too much off the gearbox and reduce its strength and ability to bolt up to my 350z.
this also caught me out lol.

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Not updated in a while but the car is nearly a rolling shell again, roof lining is out and suspension is going on, still waiting on some new tie rod ends and some lower front control arms.



Driftworks quality isn't great had a lot of interference issues with parts, these rods wouldn't fit through the bearing eye's, had to freeze them and only one was able to be pushed through by hand the other needed the press. the hubs also needed a lot grind'd off the inner hole so the wheel bearings could be pushed though.



I have also been sticking lots of grease on the rose bush joints so they don't bind up, they are meant to self clean but after sitting in their boxes unopened for months they were difficult to move and expect dirt and rust will affect them quickly if not maintained and greased.

Also going to copper slip the hell out the coilovers so they dont rust.


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Need to contact nissan for new bolts and nuts as some just wont go back on even after cleaning.


Car is nearly ready to go.


So the guy doesn't get confused how much he can remove, for the rear tubs and rust removal.


Need to wait for new tie rods as the OEM ones are now too short (only a few threads holding the tie rod ends on)?? might have the height set to high or my guess work suspension arm length is wrong (Kept the old arms for 1.5 years then tossed them just before installing the new ones lol).



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Also need to grease the front suspension bearings so they dont rust and buy more copper slip for the shocks so they dont either..... all things I should have done on the 350Z.

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So the oem 16" wheels no longer fit. The rod for the ball joint on the new driftworks black edition arms foul on the wheel.


So I will have to make do with the oem 18" 350z wheels for rolling the car about and winter work. Hopefully the 17" japan racing wantanabe copys fit.


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On 04/06/2019 at 19:09, Sargara said:

I spotted this on Driftwork forum and it reminded me of your topic, some inspiration perhaps?


A bit to wild on the graphics but a nice build.


So the car has been away for 18 days at the motorsport / welders shop... and I don't think hes touched it yet due to being so busy and behind on other jobs. (Same guy that done Paul's 350z cage so I know hes worth waiting on).

Meanwhile I bought some spare rear brakes.... sadly I got done and the guy never gave me the carriers so no dual caliper setup yet, but they are better than my old ones.


Bought a big old press from a old guy who restores them and sells them on ebay, just need to bolt it to my workbench which I decided to use my spare sheet metal on.



As for the clutch and gearbox, I split them so I could measure the air gap and fit the new release bearing.



old 350z on right new s15 on left.



Should have an air gap of 11mm when the fork is fully back.

92mm from gearbox adapter plate to clutch fingers,

103mm from fully disengaged release bearing to bellhousing end.

73mm engaged release bearing to bellhousing end.


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SR20DET getting the exhaust gas recic valve removed (even though its been accidentally blocked from the factory it seems lol).




Removing the turbo and exhaust manifold for new gaskets..... and maybe other stuff.




Good time to replace the oil feed and drain pipes with braided stuff.

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If you can find one, a power Enterprise PE1420 turbo, which is a modified IHI VN14.


Very good on a SR20. 


I had two on my VQ35.

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15 hours ago, TT350 said:

If you can find one, a power Enterprise PE1420 turbo, which is a modified IHI VN14.


Very good on a SR20. 


I had two on my VQ35.

Thanks for the tip, so far I have only looked at garrett turbos; g25-550 I think may be too big for my power goals and I like the look of the gtx2860 .60AR as its small for quick spool and will still give 400hp (safe for a stock block).

Thinking about engine managment aswell but not sure if I like Apexi hand commander look which is a bit big and bulky.

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