Zpmc Posted October 27, 2016 Posted October 27, 2016 This just arrived from Torqen hope to fit it tomorrow looks a lot better than the old one lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote
GMballistic Posted October 27, 2016 Posted October 27, 2016 If it was me I'd give the new one an extra coat of paint before fitting, ...they do like to rust as your old one shows so the more paint to help protect the metal the better imo. Also I'd use stainless steel bolts when fitting if you can. Quote
Zpmc Posted October 27, 2016 Author Posted October 27, 2016 Cheers for that I was thinking of more paint and some wax oil as well 👠Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
GMballistic Posted October 27, 2016 Posted October 27, 2016 Cheers for that I was thinking of more paint and some wax oil as well í ½í± Yep good idea with the wax oil as well. Much easier to do before fitting to the car as well. Maybe paint it with Hammerite smooth. That would be my choice too. Quote
KUGT4 Posted October 27, 2016 Posted October 27, 2016 just bolt it on if the last one has lasted 10 years - pretty sure this one will last the remainder of the Z 2 Quote
Adrian@TORQEN Posted October 28, 2016 Posted October 28, 2016 just bolt it on if the last one has lasted 10 years - pretty sure this one will last the remainder of the Z + 1 Quote
GreenLandy Posted October 28, 2016 Posted October 28, 2016 I would never use Hammerite, it comes off in sheets almost as quickly as you can paint it on! Quote
Flex Posted October 28, 2016 Posted October 28, 2016 I'd put some vaseline on it. and the strut brace. Boom, boom. 3 Quote
GMballistic Posted October 28, 2016 Posted October 28, 2016 I would never use Hammerite, it comes off in sheets almost as quickly as you can paint it on! Maybe you've not prepped the surface correctly first as I've never had an issue with that occurring or maybe it depends on what you're painting it on. Quote
Gerry40 Posted October 31, 2016 Posted October 31, 2016 Got to say I've never had a problem with Hammerite smooth which I've used on all my classics over the years, I think the problem as mentioned is the preparation and if you paint it over rust which I know is what it's designed for but not ideal. I restored a 1961 TR4 over 26 years ago and everything, including the separate chassis and body was sandblasted to bare metal, treated with 3 coats of Hammerite primer and then 5 coats of Smoothrite ( thinned and sprayed on ). Admittedly the car has had an easy life but the underneath is as good as the day it was done with the odd clean and re-paint under the wheel arches, nothing flaking off and the finish is rock hard. I've done the underneath of my Zed with Smoothrite but treating any surface rust with Bilt Hambers Hydrate 80 which is the ideal preparation if you cannot remove all the rust. removed my W brace and applied the treatment, primer and smoothrite. Obviously the one on here was a lost cause and replacement was the only option. 2 Quote
GreenLandy Posted November 3, 2016 Posted November 3, 2016 This is the experience of several forums' worth of Land Rover owners. There are FAR better products out there. I would never dream of putting onto a restoration! All that time and effort when (imo of course) you could have used a much better product that will last an awful lot longer. BH Hydrate is great stuff. I did a nut and bolt rebuild of my Landy 5ish years ago and went for the galv route instead, much better Quote
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