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Fog & forced induction


dajw

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Its been around for years and was developed for ww2 aircraft, i would have absolutely no concerns in using it, your probably talking 100k miles before any significant erosion is noticeable :)

 

At some point i will be going for it on my v3, imho, it can only help, not for more power, but inlet temps and det, it also cleans the top end of the engine :)

 

Again, I'd love to see this! My car is running well at the moment, but I have plans for increasing its safety/longevity next year.

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Dose anyone have a link to the sort of kits you would use I've no idea how they work

 

If the kit failed for whatever reason you could have a safe map built like I have. if iat reach a certain temp my car switches to a safe map Litchfield built

 

As said fail safes are only needed if its a mapped for WI system, IE one in which things like ignition timing has been advanced, and fuelling tweaked, then you just have default maps should say the tank ran dry or you had a blocked jet, but I think that is all included in the new modular systems.

 

I have used Aquamist stuff before they developed the modular kits, which pretty much cover everything, they are actually used on some production cars, they are on the expensive side but make up for it with effect and ease of application,http://www.aquamist-direct.com/

 

There is also a forum which is pretty helpful, and if you can get to talk the Richard Lamb he is the system designer/engineer guru of WI, very nice fella too, I think there are still some pics of my Supra install in the gallery, must go and have a look.

Edited by Tricky-Ricky
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I had water injection on mine, it was the difference between detonation and smooth running, as I had high comp ratio and FI we were getting det at about 3500 rpm water only was enough to reduce the inlet temp and get rid of that problem. Never added any meth but I did have a 75 shot of NOS for those times when 450 RWHP just won't do it :lol:

 

O and it was mapped in with fail safe to the Haltech ECU so if anything does not do it's job at very least I got a warning light if not a limp mode setting.

 

Ahhh the good old days :teeth::D;)

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Reducing intake temps is a route to proven power , using the formula pv = nrt (https://en.wikipedia...i/Ideal_gas_law)

 

If you remember your gas laws of course ;)

 

In real terms an engine produces about 1% more power for every 20 degrees Fahrenheit drop in intake temperature so thats about 2.5% difference between a very cold winters day or the height of the UK summer :) In DAJW's car thats about 12 hp if i have done my maths correctly :)

Edited by Richf
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I had water injection on mine, it was the difference between detonation and smooth running, as I had high comp ratio and FI we were getting det at about 3500 rpm water only was enough to reduce the inlet temp and get rid of that problem. Never added any meth but I did have a 75 shot of NOS for those times when 450 RWHP just won't do it :lol:

 

O and it was mapped in with fail safe to the Haltech ECU so if anything does not do it's job at very least I got a warning light if not a limp mode setting.

 

Ahhh the good old days :teeth::D;)

 

Oh that's very interesting! (The water part). The NOS is silly! :-p

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Reducing intake temps is a route to proven power , using the formula pv = nrt (https://en.wikipedia...i/Ideal_gas_law)

 

If you remember your gas laws of course ;)

 

In real terms an engine produces about 1% more power for every 20 degrees Fahrenheit drop in intake temperature so thats about 2.5% difference between a very cold winters day or the height of the UK summer :) In DAJW's car thats about 12 hp if i have done my maths correctly :)

 

An engine is an air pump, a thermodynamic 'heat engine'. I've no doubt there's lots of losses and real world variables that detract from the ideal law. I was always more interested in quantum & laser physics than classical thermodynamics at uni.

 

The simple fact is, a Vortech V-3 can push something like 1100 CFM if I recall correctly. Squashing air requires (a lot of) work, work done on a gas in a constant volume raises the temperature (in the compressor, and of course in the combustion chamber).

 

The Stillen charge cooler is a bit weak on the first part and I have nothing on the second, so water/meth seems like a sensible approach. I must admit to being puzzled by the largely ambivalent response from most. I'm encouraged by some of the responses on here about safety not power.

 

This is why this forum is great!

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My big problem with Nos , like adding boost, is that unless you add the correct amount of fuel as well you have an instant problem, so in my books adding something that only cools, and nothing bad will happen if it stops ( this is providing its not a mapped for scenario) is a no brainier.

 

Don't forget we have mostly been talking about using WI as a charge and in cylinder cooling aid, and if done correctly can add a few bhp and ftlb with no risk, and quite a few benefits.

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Water only in the BMW M4 -

 

That vid is a bit hackneyed (cutaways, dubstep track) but is pretty much what I want. At the very least it suggests that I may need to consider more than I thought because that implies that the water isn't injected until the air is above a certain temp. And how much to inject? How do you even dial that in?

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  • 3 months later...

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