SteveW

Wow that looks awesome!!! Might have to have a go at that! Thank you

Roughly how much does the carbon fibre wrapping cost or is it something I can do myself? I was thinking matt effect paint too if I went that route could any of you chaps be gentlemen and post up a couple of pics so can see the effects of the various routes? Many thanks in advance Steve

Hi There, I'm considering painting the centre console( gear surround and stereo surround etc) inside the car because of a number of scratches and about a two inch diameter patch wehre the black colour has gone completely and its white??? I remeber seeing a post where someone had done it in the past but can't seem to locate it. Does anyone have any tips how I should go about this? I'm just not really sure how to start because of the 'bobble' effect coating . . . Should I rub it down smooth or paint straight over with a high lift primer then paint? If I mess it up I can't really make it any worse it look stupid. Thanks very much Steve

Well I'm rather not impressed today I have discovered today at least one of my 2500 mile old turbogrooves is causing brake judder and virbration. I was going down the motorway at about 70 and a car pulled out in front of me not really close requiring mega braking but close enough to warrant moderate braking. The entire car started shaking like mad it felt like from the back end after a couple more brake trials. So back home and back wheel off brake disc on passenger side has developed about 300 microns of run out Explains the shuddering under braking from highish speed, buggared my track day plans ....... Can't feel any vibrations under light braking at speeds under 50. The run out specs for the Brembos are 0.05mm for the front and 0.07mm. I'm gonna check all the discs and hubs as soon as possible but not impresseed haven't done any hard braking since I fitted them 2500 miles ago Hmmm I just read this post http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=32481 and think I need to look into getting this done first! I'll feedback results when sorted! Thanks steve

OK mate nice one will do. I'm currently trying to find a box long enough that they willfit in then I'll get back to you, cheers.

Hi mate, I'm located up north in Yorkshire near Junction 38 of the M1. I need to check out how much postage is cos I'm guessing you wouldn't want to collect seen as you are located in Essex, its a fair old treck. Thanks Steve

Had these knocking around for a while since I changed to the LED ones. The lights are in excellent condition and come with bulbs. Really have no idea what they are worth but found a few posts by searching so say £40 plus delivery? I don't know how much delivery would be at present would have to box them up and weigh them in. Any interest? Cheers SteveW

I've written a guide on how to fix the Zed electric windows. Please find attached, feedback welcomed. Window Guide.pdf

Sorted - PrimoPDF to the rescue, had to downscale the pics a fair bit though.

I've written a guide on how to fix your electric windows and converted it to a PDF but for some reason it won't upload . . . . Any ideas? Is it too big? The file size is 9.63MB If it is too big how can I post it? Thanks

Definately sounds like a problem with the motor to me, i.e. it just needs dismantling and cleaning. Quick Guide (doing from my memory so may be some small errors) 1)Take off the door card 2)Connect the window switches back up (you will neeed to be able to move the window to remove the glass) 3)On the metal panel behind the door card there are three very large pieces of material over three big holes (one at the front two at the back about halfway down the door) remove these three pieces of material 4)Lower the window until you can see a bolt in one of these holes, remove bolt. 5)Repeat process for remaining bolts (3 bolts total), glass will now be sitting on brackets. 6)Carefully remove the glass by lifting it upwards and then sliding backwards when back edge clears doorseal 7)Set glass aside carefully and clean the scum off it (optional) 8)Disconnect window switches and carefully pull wiring looms from door panel 9)Remove all bolts holding internal metal panel to door frame (there are about 12- 15 I think) only the bolts around the edge do not remove the gold coloured bolts 10)Carefully remove the whole silver panel (the entire window mechanism is attached to this) 11)Now that you have removed the window mechanism unbolt the motor assembly from the middle of the door (three bolts) 12)remove three bolts around edge of motor/winder mechanism (not sure if these are on the front or back) 13)Pull the two pieces apart 14)Unhook grommet from silver panel and pull cabel through 15)Unscrew the three screws on top of the motor (be careful they are made fo monkey metal and if you round these off its gonna be hard) 16)Pull goldy coloured portion of motor away from rest (its magnetised so may feel a bit stuck) 17)Depending on which part the motor shaft has stuck to you may need to pull the motor shaft out separatley, mine came out magnetised to the housing) 18)Using lint free cloth and contact cleaner carefully clean the copper contacts half way down the motor shaft they are about 12-15mm tall and will be covered in carbon) 19)Carefully clean the brushes in the motor housings (made of black carbon) 20)Carefully reassemble the motor and attach back to the window regulator assembly 21)Reassemble door but do not fit door card, assembly is the reverse of removal 22)Connect window switches and wind window up one inch from top 23)Check alignment to car body and door (reallign by adujusting the three bolts holding the glass in position, do not overtighten these bolts!!!!) 24)When happy with glass positioning and allignment perform motor reset procedure 25) Re-fit door card 26)Window should now be happy and working There is another set of steps involving the brushes but this needs a soldering iron and more motor disassembly hopefully just cleaning the motor will fix your issue. I didn't get chance to do a full guide this weekend but I'll try this week or weekend. Godo luck

Sounds like you are having the same issue I had a few weeks ago! To get it working again instead of smacking the door close the door and push the window down as though you were lowering it by hand. Its not hard to move, it should move about an inch. When you have done this hold the switch to raise the window to the top, it worked for me. I had to do this everytime I lowered the window before it would go back up. When you are parking do it with the door open so the window will fully wind up when you shut the door. I have fixed mine of this problem, it cost me £3 for some electrical contact cleaner and about 90 minutes of my time. I'm intending to write a guide on how to fix it, hopefully get a chance on saturday after I have finsihed fiddling with my brakes.

I fitted my Popcharger the other night and its quality. The sound the car now makes from 4000 rpm to 6500 rpm is the sound of dreams. I have however noticed a side effect, hanging out in dark, dingy places with the windows down . . . . . tunnels are my new best friends

Don't know if anyone has seen these before, I know there are a few procedures knocking around in other threads but this is straight off the EBC website: In Street use situations … Bedding in when the red EBC surface coating (marked on the pads as Brake In) is applied. Best procedure is to drive gently avoiding harsh braking unless in an emergency for first 100 miles. In the second 100 miles (up to 200) you can use gently increasing brake pressures when using the brakes. Only after 200 miles urban driving (not 200 miles on a freeway where brakes are almost unused) should you attempt to apply heavy load and heat to the brakes. To do this final bedding on a QUIET ROAD in safe traffic apply the brakes and slow from 60 to 10 MPH five times in a row. Then drive slowly for a few minutes if safe to do so to allow the brakes to cool. Try to avoid coming to a rest whilst the brakes are heated. A smell may be noticed from the warm brakes, this is normal. Repeat this procedure a second time after the brakes have TOTALLY cooled down. EBC pads get better with miles. Even after this bed in procedure it can take up to 1500 miles before the pads are at their best. In the meantime the pads will be good and safe but true potential not realised. EBC makes performance pads that last, they do not bed in within 5 minutes driving. Noises will be more likely during the first 1000-1500 miles use whilst this chemical bedding takes place. NEVER attempt to sand or scotchbrite brake pads to assist it bedding in or noise reduction,this will only make things worse by taking the pads "Off-Flat" and require hundreds of miles driving to seat them again during which time the brakes will feel very dull. The only way to seat pads is against the rotor they will be used on and by following our bedding recommendation. Bedding in for trackday or race use … We remind you there is NO WARRANTY on any EBC product for race use due to the very varying conditions that can be seen. However, care bedding pads in and monitoring wear will get the best from our products. Most EBC pads including Yellow range pads now have the brake in coating. If possible and using a street based car, fit the pads before the race use and bed in as above for street use. Try to get 200-300 miles urban driving on the pads before racing them. If this is NOT possible and you fit at the track bed like this. Drive two laps steadily applying the brakes every few seconds and then coast for a full lap without any unnecessary braking to allow pads and rotors to cool down. Drive a third lap applying the brakes slightly harder each time and again drive a cooldown lap. Do NOT pull up and park the car with the brakes red hot, try to let them cool as much as possible before coming to a rest. It is also important to understand that the pads must be geometrically matched to the rotor (flat and parallel) before they will bed in chemically. If you do the above bed in and get violent fade first use you MUST repeat the bedding procedure. We get lots of new customers calling in saying my brakes have faded and when they send a digital the pad is only touching on 70-80% of its surface area. Fade early in a pads life is almost a good thing. It is called GREEN fade and will disappear so if you suffer Green fade (you will notice this by smell), you are on the right path and this is not a negative. If you are getting fade after 20 laps and the pads are part worn, then something else needs looking into such as material choice, bleeding of the system, driving style etc …

Just wondering if anyone knew what the OEM brake pads were made out of? i.e. metallic/non-mettalic compound / asbestos / Kevlar etc Cheers Steve

Thats what I was leaning, thanks nce again, Aologies for posting in wrong section was just filthy and had mrs shouting at me to get off comp Thank you

Should I put a small amount of copper grease between the disk and hub to prevent possible seizure? I've just finished cleaning the hubs all up. It doesn'y say to do it in Nissan manual but....... Thank you Steve

Thanks mate

Just a quick one really, I'm in the process of fitting my new discs and pads to the back of my car (turbogrooves and yellowstuffs) and I'm just wondering if I should threadlock the caliper bolts when I put it all back together? there seemed to be some threadlock on them when I took them apart but can't be 100% could have just been other rubbish. If I should threadlock them will Loctite 648 be ok? Strictly speaking its for gears on motor shafts etc but I have some lying around from other jobs? Cheers Steve

No worries as soon as I have all the parts and checked it works I'll do a guide

Sorted, did a bit of playing and managed it. I'll post up a guide when I get the new bushes and everything, and if it works of course Now time for

I've just spent the morning dismantling my drivers electric window because its started running slow again. Last time I pulled it all apart and gave it a clean and it was all good again. However this time I think I'm gonna try and do a better job and replace the brushes in the motor because when I took the motor apart the brushes were very marginal to being in contact with the rotor contacts. I'm guessing this is why it was running slow. Anyways now I'm stuck the motor has a 'white' insert which houses the brushes (see pic) I've been trying to get it out so I can measure the brushes and get some new ones or re-tension the springs to force the existing brush into contact. Please ignore the amount the bushes are protruding I did this trying to get the brush housing out. Anyone have any idea how this comes out, I don't wanna force it and break the thing. Cheers

Right thank you for all the information, I think I'm going to go for the turbo grooves and the yellowstuffs then maybe in the future look at some two piece efforts but that will be a fair way into the future. Cheers once again the world of zed brakes is now clear

Right I'm really confused now then. If the EBC stuff is no good for even a couple of track days and in greekman's experience neither are the DBA's (too expensive anyway) What are the options? Are the stock discs OK for track? Don't they weart out very quickly with the higher friction coefficient pads? The rears on mine are stockies at the moment and were a wee bit warped/rippled when I first bought the car. Are there any more options apart from EBC, DBA and stock? I've had a look on the net and can't find anything...... There is no way I can afford a big disc conversion. Cheers