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Ekona

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Posts posted by Ekona

  1. Easy answer: they cannot change coverage mid-term, as that’s not the contract they agreed to and the exact details should be in the policy handbook they gave you at inception. 
     

    In terms of dragging the car off circuit and then ringing them it’s up to them: if they say you must’ve been there and you’re pulling a fast one, it’s the same as insurance claims at a track day crash so my guess it they’ll say no and get you to argue the toss long after the incident. Practically speaking I would imagine it’ll be 50/50 on the guy that actually turns up, worst case you can say you were spectating but not involved. 

  2. Yeah, not like I owned both or anything. 
     

    Fine, a 9x7 costs a little more at a service cos it needs more oil than a Z33 every time. That cost is offset by being better on fuel, hence I stand by my comment. 

    • Like 3
  3. Again, a 9x7 costs the same to run and maintain as a 350Z. Yes if the big bits go it’s more expensive, but that’s no more common between either marque. Get a manual ‘box (which you should), a couple of £25 rad protectors for the front grills (no brainer), a boroscope engine inspection (because you’d be mad not to) and you really don’t need a warranty. 

    • Like 2
  4. 11 hours ago, Eddie_r32 said:

    Doc a 987 isn't a 986 with a roof, you know this.

     

    And Ekona to flat out say a 987 is a better car than a z is idiotic, they are different cars once a mid engined sports car other is a traditional GT car. An s class is a better car than a 987.

    Ironically, the 987 does GT better than either Z mentioned here, as well as being more sporty and having likely having more luggage space (that one’s a guess, before anyone finds a YT video proving me wrong!). They’re the two cars being compared by the OP, so I think it’s fair of me to say one is better than the other. In the bits where I have said the 987 is better, can you honestly argue that I’m wrong on any count?

  5. There will always be a premium on the EV stuff right now, manufacturers would be bonkers not to take advantage of early adopters while they can. 
     

    What will really hurt is when we get a mainstream performance EV that doesn’t cost a bomb. Then watch what happens…

  6. I can’t believe that anyone is seriously arguing that a 987 isn’t better than a Z33 (or a Z34, for that matter) in any way that matters. Yes it should be better because of the initial cost, but still it’s better. 
     

    Whether the individual prefers it or not is a different kettle of fish, of course. 
     

    And yes, the Z33 is great value for the money. The 987 just happens to be even better right now. 

  7. 11 hours ago, Yorkshire_Zed said:

     

    And it has to be the S imo.....the non S at 245 bhp seems a bit underpowered? Even though its the lower tax bracket hehe...

    Not at all, I’d say it might be more enjoyable as you get to wring its neck without hitting licence losing speeds too quickly. 
     

    But yes, the S is what you’d ideally want. 

  8. Better in every way that matters. Better chassis, better interior, better noise, better balance, and the same costs to run and own. 987.1 leaves you somewhat at the mercy of the M97 issues, but the odds of either IMS or D-chunk failed are about 5% (but expensive to fix!). 

    • Like 2
  9. 4 hours ago, The Bounty Bar Kid said:

     

    I drive slowly until the car is fully warmed up, 75°c water temp. For the 1st 2 miles I don't go over 2000 rpm or over about 32mph. Only once at 50°c will I go over 2000rpm but keep below 3000rpm. After temp is reached, foot to the floor is allowed. Feels sluggish as in when the gearbox goes to change gear. Seems to not be as smooth.

    Water temp is irrelevant, it’s oil temp you need to look at for spirited driving. I’m guessing you’ve got about the same 9L-odd of oil in yours I had in my Pork, so it takes about 10-15 mins to get there. Imho you’re being waaaaayyyyy too cautious with driving, under 3-4rpm until warm is more than enough, actual road speed doesn’t matter :) gearbox being a bit slow I genuinely suspect is in your head: your box is much newer than mine was, and I never had any jerkiness at all. Could well be that the gearbox oil is just a bit chilly this time of year is all. 
     

    Bearing in mind your engine is DFi, you don’t want to be pootling around as otherwise it’s going to get all clogged up. Try letting yourself get used to changing at 3krpm, or whatever the PDK wants to in Normal mode. You want the engine warmed up as quickly as possible to prevent engine wear :thumbs: 

     

    It does sound rather like the other guy is a bit of a knobber about the noise tbh. I’d ignore him.  

    • Like 2
  10. You should be driving straight away after starting it up anyway. If the car feels sluggish then either you’re trying to rev the nuts off it before it’s ready, there’s something wrong or it’s all in your head. 
     

    That said, it’s not obnoxious nor is it an unreasonable time. Did you have any issues with this neighbour prior to the car? You say no, but it’s odd that this has set him right off. 

  11. 44 minutes ago, The Bounty Bar Kid said:

    This would be my list (not in any order after the 1st 5)...

     

    1. Ferrari LaFerrari

    2. Ferrari 599 GTB Fiorana

    3. Bugatti Chiron

    4. Porsche 911 GT3 RS

    5. Ferrari SF90 Stradale

    6. Shelby Mustang GT500

    7. Nissan Skyline GT-R R34

    8. Land Rover Defender 2016

    9. Porsche 911 Targa 4S Heritage design

    10. Aston Martin V8

    11. Shelby Cobra

    12. Lotus Exige

    I love how you are so specific about the 911 Targa (weird choice btw, why?!), but just say Exige when there’s about 3854 derivatives 😂

    • Haha 3
  12. 7 hours ago, davey_83 said:

    I've not proven your point at all, as your claim fuel brands makes chuff all difference is false. 

     

    You were the one who choose to focus on the small amount of top end power gains (negative) of Tesco to BP, not me. Out of that entire video you could have focused on the mid range gains (positive) which are circa x3 as much as the pointless top end difference. Midrange gains improves the way a car drives more so than top end differences.

     

    This thread isn't about tyres and suspension, it's about fuel and of the shelf as shown in the test above Tesco is proven to be better than BP and it's noticeably cheaper too. 

     

    You know a battery does have two terminals, you don't always have to choose the negative 🙂

    How have I been negative? My point was that there’s nothing to choose from between anything rated as SUL, which from any way you look at it is proven by the results as we’re talking single digit percentage points across one test, hardly conclusive that any fuel is better than another. Yes it’s interesting, but nothing more. Certainly there’s nothing in there to make anyone drive out of their way to buy anything other than whichever one is closest/cheapest, even if they were going for ultimate power. Way too many variables to still consider. 
     

    Carry the same test out on multiple cars, taking fuel from various locations at varying levels on freshness, across multiple dynos (including engine ones) and I’d be happy to change my viewpoint. 
     

    It’s not about being negative, it’s about being reasonable and open minded. You appear to have latched onto one thing and believe that as gospel regardless. I’m saying look at it a bit deeper than a headline, and you’ll learn a lot more. :) 

  13. 2 hours ago, davey_83 said:

    About as much as a plenum spacer or HFC or headers or an exhaust or a remap then by which I expect you to Woooooo those threads also. 

     

     

    Tesco-Logo-1024x468.jpg.5224562991e0584b07391658c5a16950.jpg

    You’re right, chasing tiny horsepower is pointless, hence why I always say do tyres and brakes first as I’m sure you know. 
     

    My point was more it makes chuff all difference which fuel you use, as long as it’s EN rated. Which you’ve also proven for me 👍

  14. So there’s a 1% difference between the Tesco and the BP? Well within scientific margin of error. 
     

    As I’ve said before, as long as it meets the EN spec for super unleaded, it makes bugger all difference what you put in. 

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