Tere

Most likely a transient issue, unless one of the O2 sensors went bad (possible). If it keeps happening, have a garage check the O2 sensors. Neither high flow cats nor test pipes (no cats) will typically throw a code -- I've run both with no issues.

That is most commonly an indication of momentary Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and/or Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) failure or loss of communication. Typically seen as a 2135 code (TPS). If the failure is more than momentary, the ECM will put the engine into safe mode (2,000-2,500 rpm max). It can usually be brought out of safe mode by turning the ignition off and then back on. If that doesn't work, then the TPS/ETC has failed completely. If that is the case, then you'll have to replace the entire throttle body -- buy a Nissan factory rebuilt one to save a bundle of money. If the condition you experienced keeps coming back, I'd replace the throttle body before you get stranded on the road with a completely dead TPS/ETC. For now I'd check the connector on the TPS/ETC located on the firewall side of the throttle body -- make sure it's firmly seated. If you want to see what total TPS/ETC failure looks like, just unplug that connection. Your Z will start, but the engine will be in safe mode and the same lights you saw will be on. When you plug it back in, you'll have to clear the 2135 code to get your lights to go out.

By modifying the battery and brake fluid covers, the issue also goes away. As far as rain going in and ruining anything, I haven't had any issues. Just some water spots to clean up. For under hood aesthetics, I'm also going to do some radical modification to the hood's under vent covers. The vents will be functional, but the modified covers will cover the unfinished part of the hood around the vents.

The only issue I had with the Seibon TS is the most rearward vent rides on the battery and brake fluid covers. I'm in the process of cutting them down to about half-height and fabricating a new top for the covers out of carbon fiber. I also removed the vent undercovers so the vents are actually functional.

No problems with my Seibon using just the latch, and that includes triple digits on the speedo daily. Solid as a rock.

Best to ya Mike. Hope all goes well and you're back at 100% soon!

Welcome to the over 150 mph club!

Just something to keep an eye on, and if it happens again at shorter intervals, then a new throttle body is probably going to be in your future. The more "spirited" the driver, the more probable that this can be an issue. "Drive-by-wire" is interesting... In the old days a broken throttle cable was much more straight-forward a problem to resolve (and cheaper).

There may be a little more to this than first meets the eye. While it is true that this may be a totally random hiccup that is never seen again, this situation does have the possibility of going from bad to worse. The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is an integral part of the Electronic Throttle Control Actuator (ETC). If you look on the firewall side of the throttle body, you'll see a small black box with cooling fins riveted to the throttle body. This is the little critter we're talking about. There are several potentials for failure here. 1) Are electronic components subject to heat stress issues? You bettcha! 2) Are electronic components that operate at the thousandths of a volt level subject to small electrical gremlins? You bettcha! 3) Are delicate electronic components subject to mechanical stress issues? Again, you bettcha! Failure (even momentary) will limit the opening of the throttle valve and the engine is placed in fail-safe mode. Fail-safe mode is typically indicated by simultaneous, continual illumination of CEL (MIL), VDC (if equipped) and SLIP lights. In fail-safe 2000-2500 is the maximum rpm you can get. For a momentary case such as in this situation the limited throttle valve opening explains the "lurch" (and if you happen to notice, brief illumination of the lights). If it's sufficient, the MIL will remain illuminated and have a 2135 code. Simply clearing the code does not correct any underlying problem. The TPS/ETC is subject to two known issues. Heat stress will cause premature failure of the unit. This becomes much more common with the higher intake temperatures associated with FI. High rpm downshifting without good throttle matching can cause sufficient stress on the ETC to lead to premature failure (sound like a possibility in the case described?). Over time, continued stress can go from momentary, brief failures to total failure. Another mechanical stress on the throttle valve and ETC is FI applications. In total failure cases, the engine will quit running entirely. Failure is common enough that Nissan began to offer factory rebuilt throttle bodies at a fraction of the cost of new throttle bodies almost two years ago. Yes, if the TPS/ETC fails completely, you have to replace the whole throttle body. This is an issue that Nissan knows about but has not publicly admitted -- the arrangement is engineering pooh-pooh. One thing to check first if you run into this problem is the security of the electrical connector at the throttle body. At the low operational voltages even a slightly loose connector can have significant effects. How do I know all this you ask? It's a fact of my Z life that I kill a TPS/ETC about every four to six months. I always keep a spare throttle body on hand. I can tell you everything about the progression from partial to total failure. I'm currently on throttle body #7 -- two years worth of dead throttle bodies.

Here's the thread -- In this case, it might appear solved, BUT what caused the light, and could it be an indicator of possible future problems? So in reality, the thread had no conclusion, aside from turning the MIL off. We never got to the root cause of the TPS code or possible ramifications. Just so happens I have a lot of info on the subject and the TPS. In this case, the light could come back on at increasing frequency, and the engine could go into safe mode or not even run. Under certain conditions the TPS has a very high failure rate. http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9545

It was a while back, so I'll have to see if I can find it. At the time, I thought about starting a new thread, but it was more valuable to have the context of the original thread to build on.

Yeah, I wanted to add more valuable information to an existing technical thread but it was locked. Little do folks know that the "case" was not actually closed on the issue, despite what the moderator may have thought. In this particular case, there was no good reason to lock the thread from a thread decorum perspective. Personally, I'd suggest a little loosening on the thread locking -- you never know when it might be beneficial to resurect an old thread to add new information to it.

I was going to suggest swapping to your other key fob -- could be the panic button on the one you're using is overly sensitive or not working correctly. Failing that, connections (as previously mentioned) and if not, then the BCM might need a look see. By the way, I've had the panic button get activated when the keys are in my purse -- something happened to push against it. My nightmare is the NATS -- the immobilizer does work, and in my case, it seems to have a mind of its own. I'm pretty adept with the ignition unlock voodoo.

Unless you have the speed limiter flashed out of the ECM, the highest possible is 156-157. The second you exceed that speed, the fuel injectors shut off.

Yeah, but I think the old FLYIN Z would be a little hard pressed to fly on square tires. I still get nauseated every time I look at those photos of what they did to my babies. It does give one the ideation to shorten someone's life span rather dramatically. Me and my buddies Smith & Wesson with a little 500 Magnum (oh hell, may as well park a cannon in my front yard).

Time for a video surveillance camera I guess. For 25 years it's been a great neighborhood, but within the past few months we've had a string of vandalism cases. Almost three dozen cars (including my two Zs) were done in the most recent spate. It took 4 police officers over three hours to write up all the cases -- another waste of resources. And then the damage to each Z was just under the insurance deductible, so it's costing me some of my Z car "bling" money. Most of the neighbors seem to think it's some of the displaced hurricane Katrina folks. We've got a lot of the lower end of New Orleans' economic scale still with us -- spread out all over the city living on goverment subsidies and in subsidized housing. The children have very little adult supervision and do tend to run a little wild -- the adults obviously have difficulty taking care of themselves let alone children. So all the tax paying folks get to pay for the priviledge of having our property vandalized.

Here's what some mama's pride and joy did to my Zs a week and a half ago... Little &^&*^*& twits.... AND Six hours of wetsanding, compounding and polishing later the 300 was restored... But I'm still waiting for my new rear sneakers for the 350 to arrive -- had to special order them.

Yep, I just love Google Earth! So much fun to jet instantly around the world. The still photos of 90 Mile beach are awesome! What a beach it is!

I think the Michelins are substantively the Goodrich tires (or visa versa) since Michelin owns Goodrich, and they obviously share a little technology. The big difference is cost -- the 285/40s are slightly over $200 each and the 245/40s are slightly under $200 each.

And that is an understatement!

Surprised no one has mentioned them... BF Goodrich g-Force T/A KDW (new tread design) Awesome all around performance tire, wet or dry (even ran well on ice). This is a Y rated tire, good for a sustained 185 MPH (an Autobahn tire for sure). It is capable of exceeding 1 lateral G -- optimize the 350 in the twisties! I've driven on most of the high end performance tires and haven't found any other street tire that beats them in all around performance. I like them so much that I run them on both my 350 and 300 (both higher than average horsepower). They made the 300 an entirely different Z car when it comes to handling (I went from P-Zeros to the KDWs). On the 350, they make the stock RE-040s something that belongs on grandma's minivan. 350: Rear: 285/40 on 18" x 9.5" wheels Front: 245/40 on 18" x 8.5" wheels 300: Rear: 275/35 on 18" x 9.5" wheels Front: 245/35 on 18" x 8.5" wheels

Kohukohu is a bit southeast of 90 Mile beach, so that would have to be it.

And I thought I was crazy! Utterly insane!

At 150mph (240kph), the 350 is incredibly stable. Better than driving a regular car at half the speed. No need to hold on tight -- in a straight line at 150mph, you can let go of the steering wheel. In addition to having good, high speed rated tires, I highly recommend having good balance on the tires, and a good alignment (all 4 wheels). You'll love it!

In the US, it's more likely that a stolen high-end car would go straight to a chop shop. You can make more money on the parts than on the entire car. The VIN would also have to match the plate, so once the cops stop a car, if the VIN doesn't match, you'd be toast. The VIN is on both the registration and insurance card. Car thieves around here wouldn't go to such great lengths to fabricate plates and forge all the documents. Much easier to just chop a stolen car into tiny pieces, and sell the pieces.