Tere

If you run 6-7 psi, you can do it pretty safely on a stock engine. I'd redo the plenum and make sure I have a decent engine/fuel management system though. I like 'em both. My 300ZX is a twin turbo, and it's a hoot when the turbos spool up and kick in. The supercharger is instant/constant power so you don't get the turbo kick. I'd guess for drifting, the supercharger will give better results since there's no lag and you have a more constant power delivery. It would make the car more predictable for drifting.

Concur with the fuel pump as the culprit. Try turning the ignition on but not starting the engine. For a second or two you should hear the noise as the fuel system pressurizes, and then it will stop. If that's what happens, you're definitely hearing the fuel pump. Try listening to a Walbro 255 lph fuel pump -- that's a really noisy little sucker.

Wellllll... Fuel consumption goes up dramatically when you put the pedal to the floor. Fuel pressure is boost controlled. At high rpms I've got her running between 65-70 pounds of pressure. The fuel pump pushes 255 liters per hour. Now if I drive her like a grandma, she gets pretty decent gas mileage. But then I don't drive her like a grandma.

Hehehehehe... That's the little "oops" that led to building a bullet-proof engine. Good news was that I took first place running at 150 mph on 5 cylinders! Now I've got an engine where I don't have to really worry much about things like that. It was a cracked piston, but it didn't score the cylinder (what you see on the cylinder walls is a reflection of the top of the piston). I still have that piston sitting here in my office -- a reminder of my escapades with my 350.

9 psi is pushing the limit on a stock engine. You'll definitely want to change the plenum. Unless you run very rich (lower hp), cylinders 5 & 6 will run too lean. At 9 psi, you'll want additional fuel (change fuel pumps or add a secondary pump). And of course a good engine management system. You can flash the ECM for your setup, but I recommend a good piggyback management system for fine tuning. Additionally, I recommend at least a wideband O2 sensor and gauge to keep tabs on your air/fuel ratio. At 9 psi on a stock engine, I wouldn't go leaner than 11:1 on the A/F ratio. SafeGuard may be a good idea -- retards timing if knock is detected on any cylinder. If you want to play it a lot safer on a stock engine, run 6-7 psi Here's what happened at 9 psi when I leaned her down a wee bit too much (racing). #6 piston - look carefully at the 11 o'clock area of the piston. That's called an expensive "oops."

Well-tuned with 14 psi pulleys, the ProCharger can hit close to 500 rwhp. Engine, fuel system, engine management, and cooling all need to be redone. If you up the redline, you can get close to 16 psi at 7,100 rpm. You're basically looking for something like my '03 350. Plus if you're show drifting, the supercharger is a real crowd pleaser -- sounds like a jet engine. Add a Tial BOV and the crowd will go nuts with the sound. Here's what mine sounds like and I'm just cruising about my neighborhood with a top speed of 35-40 in a couple spots. http://tere.net/t-z/tere350zsc-1.mpg

One of the possible issues that I think does the TPS/ETC in is it's location and lack of cooling. Motordyne makes a thermal spacer that goes between the throttle body and plenum. The concept is to reduce heat transference from the engine to the throttle body. They also make a spacer for the lower plenum (intake collector) to reduce heat transference from the engine to the plenum. This concept works with a normally aspirated Z. It probably won't work for a forced induction Z since in the summer time you could have intake temperatures at the 200 degree level even with intercooling. It's my initial belief that the Siebon TS hood reduces heat stress on the TPS/ETC by giving better cooling air flow around the throttle body -- provided you make the cooling vents funtional; as shipped, the vents are not functional. I don't think the twin throttle bodies on the '07 Z will have similar problems. It looks like the location will have better cooling. At least I hope not, because replacing two throttle bodies could be an expensive proposition.

Possibly another one of the Throttle Position Sensor/Electronic Throttle Control hiccups. There are two other treads on the subject on the forum. Try a search for "TPS/ETC" to locate them. The info is very detailed. Here's a link to the most recent discussion on the topic. http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic ... highlight=

Replacing the throttle body is a piece of cake -- remove the intake tube at the throttle body; remove the 4 allen bolts; remove the connector to the TPS/ETC, replace with new (don't forget to plug in the connector in your haste to get back in business), and you're done. Do Accelerator Pedal Released Learning voodoo, followed by Throttle Valve Closed Learning voodoo, and finally Idle Air Volume Learning voodoo after replacing a throttle body. I can give you all the Nissan voodoo doodoo and five hail Marys if you need them. Oh heck, here's the Engine Control System -- it's got all the engine codes and diagnostics -- the above voodoo starts on page EC-50. Right click on the link and Save Target As to download and save on your computer -> http://tere.net/t-z/ec.pdf Brand new throttle bodies cost about $650 US, BUT Nissan makes factory rebuilt ones for $120 plus $40 core charge (refundable). It appears the TPS/ETC failures are common enough that Nissan is remanufacturing throttle bodies -- one of the very first Nissan rebuilt parts for the 350 they've offered. The engine code indicating TPS failure is 2135. With total TPS failure, your Z will be in unclearable fail-safe mode. You can decipher it with Nissan voodoo, or take it to any garage with electronic diagnostics (OBDII connection to ECM). Or find a friend who has a diagnostic program on their computer -- I use AutoTap to read engine operating parameters and codes (also clear codes). If any daring soul wants to experience TPS failure, just unplug the TPS/ETC connector on the throttle body.

Red/White wire coming from the battery -- total of 4 connectors to check. It connects to the ECM on terminal 121.

Sounds like she went into fail-safe (limp it home) mode. What you describe sounds like a momentary Throttle Position Sensor/Electronic Throttle Control issue. It commonly happens when doing spirited driving and downshifting at high rpms without good rev matching, or rapid release of the throttle at high rpms (pedal position sensor zero). ECM detects a logic fault -- mismatch between rpm and pedal position. For the momentary glitch, turning the engine off and back on (as you did) will clear it (you can even do this on the fly at any speed). Usually, a combination of Check Engine, ABS/TCS/VDC and Slip lights is the indication of engine fail-safe operation (max rpm is 2000-2500). If you get the situation frequently it could be an indication of impending TPS/ETC failure -- replace the entire throttle body. Check Engine light and a 2135 code is TPS failure. Other issues can cause fail-safe operation, but in my experience TPS/ETC is the most common, particularly when related to the "spirited driving" scenario. Probably not a delimiter issue since once the speed drops back within range all is well. I'm not sure what the delimiter is for JDM, but in the States it's 156-157. When the delimiter engages, it just cuts the fuel completely until the speed drops. If you kept the throttle down it would be an engine surge - accelerate-decelerate-accelerate, and so on until you back off on the throttle. At that point, you're back to normal engine operation. The engine will not go into the fail-safe mode you experienced.

Sorry guyz, the Brickyard 350 isn't mine. I'm not sure but I think the guy who owns her is from Dallas. I'll have to do some homework to figure out who he is. I've never seen his Z in the Texas shows. She is gorgeous.

Give Gina congrats! Her 350 - The Black Widow - took third place in Ultra Modified 350 class at ZCON this year. I love cars that are both show AND go. With the turbo, Gina's definitely goes!

The new '07 hood is a bit retro, following some of the 280Z hood design. It does look good once you get used to it. Oh wow... I just made it to "Z Dedicated"!

Glad to see you pop in over here Gina! So is Jose working on another 300ZX design besides the Vapor? I'm already going to go for the Vapor front end for my 300 (whenever I get that project started). Gina also has a gorgeous 300ZX vert. But her 350 is over the top. You have to see all her photos to appreciate everything she's done to her. Her cardomain link shows the entire evolution, and it's quite interesting.

I'm not sure how many of the Havoc kits have made it to the US. Gina's was the first. I'm still working on my Venom front end and Havoc rear. The side skirts are the same for both Venom and Havoc. Hoping to shoot the final primer this weekend. Maybe next weekend I'll get some of the carbon fiber laid in. Here's the kit in the initial prime and sand stages. Venom front end test fit: The Havoc rear with my diffuser mold trial fit (the piece will be carbon fiber). I originally came on this site to find the Euro spec rear license plate assembly -- that mission was accomplished: Side skirt test fit:

but she has to keep the avatar In compliance with y'all's request... I just got a chuckle out of the fact that I'm still a "Z Hopeful." I guess I'll have to buy another Z to be something other than "hopeful."

A used Z car lot at least...

Thanks y'all. The color here in the States is called San Marino Blue, but midnight blue is proabably more descriptive. I'm hoping they discontinue the color so it will end up being rare like the Brickyard (only 2,041 made). And it is a very stunning pearl finish in the bright sun; at night she turns a very nice almost black color. The photos were taken after she got her first coat of Zaino -- I love the luster, shine, and reflectivity. Modding??? LOL... She had her first mod in less than 24 hours -- carbon fiber battery and brake fluid covers. Now I have to check to see if my extra set of NISMO headers will fit on the new VQ35HR. I like the twin intake and throttle body arrangement -- reminds me of the 300ZX. I didn't realize just how much I had dropped the Black Cherry (Brickyard) until I parked the new one next to it. And the 285/40 tires make the stock tires look like they belong on a bicycle. It was fun making the comparisons to see how much I had changed the '03. And yes, Nixy, one can never have too many Z cars!

Added another Z to the stable this past weekend...

Folks always think my Z is misfiring at idle... It's called cam lope...

No light and no code would mean no real misfire. It may be a condition where the fuel cuts out and you get a little lurch from the car. This would happen most frequently when slowing down with high rpms and throttle pedal position zero (fully released). In this case, the fuel cuts out until the rpms drop down or the clutch is depressed. No code is thrown and no light -- it's considered "normal" operation.

Any 3xx code with give you the light. Normally, a little transient misfire due to a little engine hiccup is not a problem. Just clear the code which clears the light. If you keep getting the misfire code, then investigate further. Connections, etc.

Photos of the NZ show are on Zchickz. You may have to register. http://zchickz.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2838

If it's actually a misfire, you will get a 3xx code (00 is random; 0x is cylinder).