Dicky

Rotor = Discs Shield = The metal shieild around the disc As I always say "You learn a little every day" Cheers young man, I'll check in the morning

Sorry Alex not sure what the shield and rotor are Just got back in after doing further tests at a nearby industrial estate. My daughter drove the car slowely as I walked along beside it and the clicking is definitly coming from the nearside front. My gut feeling is that its coming from the Brembo caliper?

Yep all clear and as I say no noise when I spin the wheel by hand???

Getting a clicking noise when travelling straight ahead but it goes off when turning either left or right. The clicking frequency matches the wheel speed, is still there when free wheeling and breaking and sounds as if a stone is caught in the tread. I’ve lifted each front wheel and there are no trapped stones and no clicking noise when spinning either wheel. The sound seems to be coming from the front offside wheel but could be the rear. Any ideas?

MULL IS A TOP GUY, (not quite as good looking as me as it happens) but HE'S ALL RIGHT BY ME. Thanks once again young man Dicky

I’m fascinated how a tube that protrudes only 1" further into a plastic box with a radiused entry can have any affect at all. All I can think is somehow it produces a less of a turbulent flow allowing slightly more air to get to the engine. I’m tempted to make one out of plastic waste pipe (assuming same ID) Scary I know but nothing ventured no BHP gained Interested to read Abby's post though but just thought if I go for the plenum spacer I may as well do this as well.

Had my brakes bled by Kwickfit a few months ago and they allowed air to get into the system which gave the same effect as your getting. They bled the brakes lots of times with little effect To cut a long story short the main dealer told me that air had got into the brake sevo and that it had to be bled by a pressure bleeding system. After this it was just tickedy boo

i will have one for sale in a week or 2, it has a little bit of plastic clip broken off but it serves no important purpose. It will be glued back on so its solid again. PM'ed

Thanks for that! I now one step closer to total enlightenment

Rang my local dealer to price the new air box and they quoted a ballpark of £350 and as there like rocking horse @*!# a mod seems the only option. Cant really see how it would improve performance, wouldnt have thought it was because of any venturi effect but dont know. Does anyone know?

What does F/1 mean

Do you think the shape of the air box itself forms part of the improoved performance of this air box or is it just the steel tube (velocity stack)redesign. If it’s the latter it may be possible modify the older air box, what do you think?

Mine as well, their all the same, Crap

Bought a 3bar one about three years ago from B&Q it had a three year guarantee and its still going strong, about £100 as I recall. Be carefull not to use a them too close to the paint work as they'll wip a lump of paint off if youve a chip in it

In my earlier post "Key Fob Wont Operate Doors" Leeroy kindly gave me this short cut viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15966 to a procedure that’s supposed to re register your key fob if lost. Well it didn’t work and nor did another I found (US version) I think. Put the car in for its P1 service today and spoke with the Service Manager who told me that this procedure isnt for the Z but for other Nissan cars and said it had to be done on their machine using the keys Nats code? Anyway its all working now so just be aware. By the way, Cost 1hr lab @ £53/hr for two key fobs

Posted this one a few years ago when I discovered my left indictor doesn’t cancel unless I do almost a 90 degree turn. I'd just made a left turn and was hurtling down this country lane when I only just missed a car pulling out of an estate fom a road on the left. They obviousely thought I was turning in. The music was on and my hands covered the indicator lights so I didnt notice. I eventually installed audible repeaters so at least I could hear above the music. However I was wondering has anyone had the same problem and managed to fix the route cause ie the cancelling mechanism on the steering column?

Hi Mull Got to say its more than kind of you to put yourself out like this. Ive just Pm'ed you and hope it worked as havent used this pm business before . In case it didnt arrive I'd be more than happy to split the cost of the ebay copy with you plus any on costs as its still going to be cheap for me. Let me know here if you received it and are happy with the content and we can make the necessary arrangements. Cheers Dicky

Ran a search but could only find US version. Is there a free download of the UK version anywhere. If I have to buy a copy can anyone recommend a supplier? what are the eBay copies like? Cheers Dicky

I had problems with the pressure felt at the brake pedal after taking mine to Dip @*!#, oops sorry KWICK FIT. I took it back to the main dealer who said they thought air had got into the servo and that a pressure bleeding system should be used. Told KWICK FIT this who eventually resolved it when they bled the brakes with this type of equipment. They had to take it to another branch though as not all have this gear. Hope it helps

BUGGER! it didnt work! The indicators flashed as they should but doors still wont operate from the fob. Back to the circuit diagrams

Been ill today so unable to try the fix, I'll let you know the outcome as soon as I try it. Cheers Dicky

Ooops cant spull either, everyone knows it i before e except after 3 or something like that! Should be THEIR feelings. And I got lots of F's in my GCE's which Im told means FANTASTIC!

My wifes got the car at the moment so will have to try this out tomorrow. But be warned, if it works I'm driving straight down to Chester and Kent to plant the bigest and wetest slobbery kiss on both your lips (no tounge though) . Who said Geordie boys dont show there feelings.

Any tips welcome and thanks in advance. main & spare key fob batteries checked Ok but doors will not operate. They do operate from the internal door switch mounted on driver’s side arm rest. Downloaded a workshop manual from this site some years ago but believe it must be a USA/Other version as pictures show left hand drive. The fuse to check according to the info is F6 (10A) located in junction box ref (J/B) located I believe to the RHS of the drivers foot well. Problem is the fuse box cover info says F6 is for the mirrors? It may be a bit academic I suppose because if the locks operate from the arm rest switch then the fuse must be OK ? (where ever it is). I suppose it could be the BCM module and if so can this be obtained for a reasonable price from somewhere other than the stealers Cheers Dicky

Starting to loose the will to live reading this lot and still none the wiser. MPS seem best but far to expensive . Think Im going for Fredy Stine’s