Dicky

Cheers young man

Visited a local company who make st st exhaust systems. There a well recognised company in the area and have been trading for 10yrs or so. They build exhausts for many exotic cars and the guy who owns the garage and who seemed very knowledgeable told me that decats and high flow cats are now illegal with heavy fines attached (cant recall if the fines were on the owner or the installer) anyone else heard of this?

Im thinking of getting a momo and was wondering if you had to buy an adaptor as well or just the handl?

Any idea what diameter this momo handle is. Also anyone fitted a Sparco drift handle and can confirm its 40mm dia

+1 but for only one wheel

PS: A couple of questions: Does the button on the end of the new cover push onto the button on the old handbrake o release it and does the new assembly feel solid when you apply the brake or does it feel as if it moves slightly.

WELL DONE young mman. I picture saves emmm emmmm I forgot how many but it was lots and lots

I expect they were hosted on a photo bucket account and now been deleted BUGGAR

Looking to do the same mod myself and did a search for a guide showing how to do it. Found a post by" andyzed" on July19 2009http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=25166&hilit=handbrake+lever+mod but none of the .jpg pictures are avialable to me. Do they get dumped after a period of time or is my computer having a bad day? Hope that link works as it doesnt look like other links Ive seen. Got no idea how to post a link, just right clicked and copied link.

Well Lexx young man went down to AAS as you suggested and your right Stuart is a fine and knowledgeable guy who has carried out far more complex work, so the old Z is well within his capabilities . He said he could tune it to be as loud or quite as I wanted and would carry out corrective actions should I not be satisfied with the end result. He hand makes the complete system even the back box (Powerflow use an off the shelf box) and will design it to suit your requirements. I will definitely use them when my exhaust gets near its end, which shouldn’t be to long now as its been on nearly 8 yrs now. In fact I may even get it done early. He quoted £500 for Y pipe, centre section and back box, cant be bad Ah, and another good point is, his workshop’s just at the bottom of my estate PS Stuart didn’t rate the powerflow system at all (laughed when I said my feedback on them had been poor) he said he wasn’t surprised . I’d expect him to say that but he did seem to know what he was talking about.

Well Lexx young man went down to AAS as you suggested and your right Stuart is a fine and knowledgeable guy who has carried out far more complex work, so the old Z is well within his capabilities . He said he could tune it to be as loud or quite as I wanted and would carry out corrective actions should I not be satisfied with the end result. He hand makes the complete system even the back box (Powerflow use an off the shelf box) and will design it to suit your requirements. I will definitely use them when my exhaust gets near its end, which shouldn’t be to long now as its been on nearly 8 yrs now. In fact I may even get it done early. He quoted £500 for Y pipe, centre section and back box, cant be bad Ah, and another good point is, his workshop’s just at the bottom of my estate

WOW thats a big blue knob you have there

I noticed it earlier but unfortunately red doesnt go with my eyes. It would have done Sunday morning though!

Have a search there are loads of thread on changing the handbrake cover I will do that very thing

RESPECT!

Coldel young man, was there much involved in removing your old handbrake lever and fitting the new one. I think I'd like to copy yours

Liked your idea about changing the colour of the panel lights so been doing a bit of research and found you can get Tri colour led’s (you may have already known that. I didnt) which have three leads coming out from them. Internally there is one red and one green led. If both are on together then it appears yellow. So your led;s may be tri colour. The longest lead is common (cathode) and the other two the respective led anodes.

The round alloy one looks good and the red lettering would work with my red 350.Looks like it would shorten the gearchange too (generally good,but 1 to 2 when cold will be worse)...but very icy to the touch at this time of year. Oh bugger. Thats a good point. When you touch the metal at the base of the gear lever your fingers almost stick

Ive seen a couple on ebay that look ok but Im a bit bothered what you get for £6.99 I'll look into what coldel suggests cos I quite like his knob but without the tattooing (thats got to have hurt). By the way a "Show us ure Knob" thread sounds like a winner to me. Might even get the wife interested in cars

If you have a dry joint and it seems likely that you have, then the led operation will be intermittent. As the joint flexes its resistance changes (usually goes higher) and will reduce the voltage to the led’s (brightness will vary) If it goes high enough (and it would) then all the voltage is dropped across the joint leaving nothing to light up the leds. I very much doubt the prob has anything to do with temperature.

I’m looking to splash out for the new year and buy a new gear knob. I fancy a round shaped aluminium number. Ive seen a couple on ebay and bugger the fact their nearly £7 each I'm considering casting caution to the wind. Anyone recommend another supplier as I’m not to keen on ebay and any advice regarding choosing a suitable one. I’d hate to spend all that dosh and find its to low/high

If any part of the series connections results in a dry joint then all led's will be affected. Don’t understand your description “where as the existing were 1+ and 3-,†Leds usually have only two connecting wires (your not talking about surface mount stuff are you) one slightly longer lead (+). As rtbiscuit says dry joints are hard to spot. I would suggest reheating all the joints you’ve touched and run a little more solder onto them.

You’ll have to bear with me as its years since I did electronics seriously. Sounds like you have a "dry" solder joint to me A led usually takes a current of approx 20mA (0.02A). If you connect say 3 in series then the same current will run through each of them. So if you have a soldered “dry†joint (ie solder not fully adhered to the wire producing a high resistance) then its likely to go high resistance if moved and turn off all leds. By the way you did connect a suitable resistor in series with the led’s to limit the current ?

Better to laugh than cry cos laughing's EGGhilarating

HELP What are these video files with a .php extension cos I can play them on my lap top. The .jpg play ok. Any advice welcome