Colin747

Tyre pressures are determined by the vehicle manufacturer, not the tyre manufacturer (who will list a max pressure the tyre can handle).

 

As above, 35psi is what Nissan recommend for the 350Z.

ahh OK, I always assumed it was the other way around....thinking back this explains a lot haha

Would anyone have an idea what pressure these should be running at for stock Ray sizes? I know there's a lot of factors but just a base line for on the road to start with would be a help for me.

Can anyone confirm if the screws that are used to hold the drivers window switch panel, the one behind the drivers door handle, and the ones that hold the arm rest handle (the one the window switch is attached to) to the door card are all the same size?

Sorry guys i've gotten completely sidetracked the last couple of weeks, will try tonight to use some clay to see if I can remove it. Might pick up some of those sponge things from Tesco as well just in case.

Do you have High-Flow/Performance cats installed as well?

It's a 5 hour round trip but hey ho..be a even better drive home 😎

Could be worse, I travelled over from Northern Ireland haha Got the 0330 ferry out and the 2330 ferry home lol

I got mine done at Dyna Tune a couple of week ago, would definitely recommend Chris.

Good advice about the GT holding the value and selling better. When I was looking, I didn't even consider not having a GT. Keep looking and go for the GT

Agreed, when I was looking I ruled out any car that wasn't a GT, although saying that it seemed to be hard to find any non-GT cars at the same time.

How did your fitting go?

He's waiting on an adapter that was needed to fit it

It does vary. It also depends on the health of your car. I noticed a difference, especially torque. Ok, its not like a GT-R after uprev but it does make a difference. Im glad i had it done.

Likewise, even with hindsight I'd still go and get it done.

 

 

 

How do you have over 1,000 lbft of torque?

 

That is hub torque , our Dynapack measure power/torque at the hubs, divide the hub torque by the drive ratio (4.631) to get a flywheel figure

ahh OK, was just curious as I've recently had my car on a Dynapack hub dyno with a reading of 242 lbft but I guess the print out must have had the flywheel figure. Cheers for the clarification.

How do you have over 1,000 lbft of torque?

Iv got a 2004 DE with 98k... im thinking of doing this aswell.

 

iv got a panel filter and k1 exhaust already, I was thinking of getting a plenum spacer and remapping at that.

 

I would like to get some HFC s but it will make my exhaust a lot louder won't it??? Which I don't really want because I won't pass trackday Sound testing then. Or do the resonated ones not increase the volume??

 

But then without HFC s I won't really get any gains, other than throttle response.

It'll make it louder yea but it's not OTT, this is a video of mine with HFC fitted on the stock exhaust

Its not worth it for the hp increase imo but it is worth it in the way the car drives afterwards , they just feel more lively and responsive

 

Exactly this. Its easy to focus on that peak bhp gain but it doesnt represent the value of an uprev (or any remap actually) - what counts is the increased area under the graph ie overall gains rather than peak gain, removing flat spots etc. across the whole rev range.

There are also other factors such as the removal of the throttle restriction in the first three gears, I got a remap done recently by Dyna Tune and gained 15hp and 10lbft of torque from just some HFC and a panel filter.

Cheers guys, I'll be well pleased to get rid of this.

If that's the window seal, get a clay bar on there and it should come right off.

 

It's the metal part of the door just below the seal I think

 

As abve it's either hard rubber or plastic, so clay bar or magic sponge will remove it; you just need something abrasive to lift it.

So before I do something stupid, when you say a magic sponge do you mean this?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Cleaning-Scourers-Sponges/Magic-Eraser-Chemical-Free-Stain-Mark-Removal/B003QITQC6

I'll have a go with a clay bar first and see how it fares. Thanks for your help guys.

If that's the window seal, get a clay bar on there and it should come right off.

It's the metal part of the door just below the seal I think

I have this weird mark on my paint just below the drivers window and I'm not sure what it is. It doesn't seem to be coming off with washing/hand polishing.

 

Haha cheers. Needs booked back in at the body shop at the end of the year to tidy up a few bits, going to enjoy driving it for the summer first. I've not even herd it tick over yet since I fitted the charger, just dropped it off a few days ago while I had a chance. He mentioned he had one booked in in-front of mine that must have been yours

 

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Must have been, sorry for making you wait longer Just had a look through your build thread, I'm sure you can't wait to finally get a drive!

Was it an up-rev map you had done Colin747? I have been in talks with Chris over the past few days and still undecided.

Sorry I somehow forgot to add that in my post haha Yea it was an UpRev map, I'd definitely say go for it, you'll certainly notice the removal of the throttle restrictions if nothing else.

Yeh he's a nice guy who clearly knows his stuff, He's got mine in just now on the waiting list to get re-mapped. Started fine on the base map but turns out my alternator has seized ober winter so that will need fixed first

 

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Trust me I'd to be pulled off it a fair few times Outstanding car you've got, I must have about 50 photo's of it haha Must be some drive with that supercharger!

Just wanted to say a big thanks to Chris after getting my 350Z remapped yesterday! Car feels much better, especially in the lower gears, if anyone is sitting on the fence about getting it done I can definitely recommend Dyna Tune, great work and he even put up with my constant distracting questions haha

Does anyone have photo's of these fitted to their car? Particularly if they've a black Z (I've a DE but picture of either would prob do)

I have some rust on my rear wing I need to get sorted but all I seem to read about people getting repairs is that it comes back again within X months. I'm curious is this true in the majority of cases or is it just a case of people who are happy with the work don't tend to be vocal vs. those who aren't.

Thought it might be interesting to see if there is any common method/place that seems to continuously produce good results in terms of removing the rust and it staying away!

Must admit it did pull on the heart strings a little seeing it.

 

Never seen any of my previous cars after selling them.

 

I start a new job working away soon and the money is pretty good, found myself back on pistonheads again window shopping

 

I've got a taste for boost now and much prefer a turbo motor to an NA, problem is I also much prefer real wheel drive to front and I can't really think of any modern turbo real wheel drive sports cars that fall into a reasonable price bracket. Well that is without going old school and jap and I can't be bothered with the headache of reliability issues.

 

Just out of interest, why do you prefer turbo over a big NA? My only experience with a turbo is with small engine cars, and I found I really missed the oomph in low rpm, maybe its much different with performance cars?

I think a lot of people love the surge when the turbo spools up.

I managed to get a few photo's of the HFC, my guess would be AAM?