Colin747

I'd be tempted to join in with this too, as far as I'm aware though you can't get anything better than 95RON down South so that may limit any hard driving haha

Seems a nice car and a decent price for that milage, I don't see any mention of service history? Only think I can think of maybe some mods are putting people off? I know the airbagless wheel would put me off as it would need to be changed for MOT. On the topic of the wheel, did your car have cruise control? If so has the functionality been lost with the aftermarket wheel?

That's not the normal HFC/decat fault code anyway. Your plan sounds logical but I'd only be guessing to if it would work or not, sorry

Just wondering how serious rust in this area is or if should be an easy enough fix? I was thinking about replacing the rear wing to deal with arch rust so would this section also be replaced on the new wing?

Would there ever normally be rust on whatever metal is underneath the wing if that makes sense?  Once you cut the old wing off to replace it is there likely to be rust that needs treated there?

Do you have the actual error codes? If it is the codes regarding the decats maybe H-Dev just forgot to turn the sensors off/maybe they didn't throw any errors at the time (I'm assuming from your post they were fitted at H-Dev the same day as the remap?). I know when my HFC were causing the EML to come on if I reset it then it stayed off for a day or two before coming on.

Like you're not going to do the same.

The alignment bolts on my 350Z are seized up and the garage was worried about snapping them so I'm just going to replace them while I'm at it - what are the correct names of the bolts that I need to replace, camber and toe bolts?

I also know a few people that have had trouble of the bushes being seized to the bolts when they went to replace them, to me this sounds like an excuse to upgrade - what would people recommend for fast road/daily use?

What are the names of the exact parts I need, for both the bolts and bushes, as I'm always worried about showing up with the wrong/missing parts.

Anyone have any recommendations on where is good at aligning 350Z's? (I'm based around Belfast area)

Just out of curiosity, how does this compare against an HR engined car?

I'm at 102K miles and as far as I'm aware it's still on the original clutch as well (at least there's no receipt for one amount the pile the previous owners had)

A lot of the roads we have round here are very narrow and bumpy/undulating, to me the 350 starts to feel like it's getting unsettled when going over roads like at higher speeds. What would be the cause/solution of this? I'm thinking it could just be due to the age of the original suspension components (~102k miles) and that they could just do with a refresh or is it more down to the weight of the Z?

Thanks guys, didn't know about the Link ECU. Seems are more affordable option than the Haltech one, anyone know what the difference is?

I'm gonna guess I'm too late for this 

I've a 2003 DE which can only take one map, what options are there for changing the ECU to allow multiple maps?

I believe I've read stuff about using a US DE ECU which will allow more maps? What standalone options are there and do these offer any additional advantages to a car that is still running N/A? (Like the Haltech)

On 29/06/2017 at 10:12 PM, giec said:

The engine was fully reconditioned 9 months ago - 1k miles -by Auto Engines Uk

It had that common ticking noise though , but was pulling ok on test drive .

When driving home it started rattle more and more and finally gone with big oil leak.

Common ticking noise?

Thanks, I'm tossing up between keeping it or selling at the moment. If I'm keeping it I was going to go for a lightweight flywheel so that'll be the perfect time to get that sorted.

As far as I'm aware it's the standard dual mass, I've not changed it and none of the previous owners documents indicates it's been changed.

I've tried to take a video of the noise to help explain it, you can hear the tapping noise at the start of the video (before I press the clutch in) vs the normal clutch noise I get towards the latter end of the video.

I've noticed when at idle when my clutch pedal is not pressed in I'm getting an intermittent high pitched tapping noise, it kinda almost sounds like a cricket chirping sort of noise. Is this another of the famous assortment of 350 clutch noises or something that needs checked out?

I used Meguiars NXT polish to bring mine up a bit better, they certainly need another go but not bad for 5 mins.

Thanks for your help, I'll get a few quotes from places and go from there.

I'm really not sure what to do to be honest, part of me is thinking of just selling it and the other part is considering just keeping it for a couple of years and selling it for an HR car (If I do get another 350 I'll definitely copy what you've got done to avoid this happening again).

I'm guessing there was a previous half assed repair done on the car as when I bought it in January that arch was perfect and it's went to that state over the last few months. I'm wondering will it continue to get worse or will it slow down after a while once it's came back to the extent that it was at when the repair was done?

This would be the worst patch on the offside rear wing, there are two other thumb nail sized patches towards the rear of the arch.

I'm guessing from reading your reply that it would work out more expensive to do that than it would to just replace the metal with a new genuine panel?

And now the DVSA don't train testers, it is out sourced. They are purely there to catch garages breaking the rules to generate income in fines...er I mean to help garages maintain a fair and legal service

That's quite interesting, over here in NI we have dedicated MOT test centres which are ran by the government which I suppose helps cut out this sort of thing