Colin747
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Posts posted by Colin747
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Thanks, so as long as I can live with the noise it won't cause any problems? (It's not lowered in my case)
Basically yes, if it is the bearing that is clicking (and not a stone or something hitting the dust shield) then the click is not problem, like anything they wear and that is the very early stages but they will last for many miles after the clicking starts
That's great thanks, now for the "how long is a piece of string" question....How many miles would many miles be?
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Thanks, so as long as I can live with the noise it won't cause any problems? (It's not lowered in my case)
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I noticed tonight that when driving at lower speeds (circa. < 30 mph) there seems to be a constant clicking noise coming from the rear. I've looked a videos of the normal rear axle clicking problem and it doesn't seem to be it - it seems to be a once off click when moving off?
It seems to be constant spacing between each click regardless of the speed, maybe 2 per second, any ideas?
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I always wondered if the likes of these test pipes would scrape though as HFC if given a casual glance
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Following on from heel and toeing, for gawds sake don't try to left foot brake while moving slowing in traffic... you'll press the pedal too hard, then the anti stall instinct will kick in and you'll depress the clutch - except it'll still be the brake pedal, so you'll come lurching to a stop AND you'll stall, and you'll be thoroughly confused and worried you've forgotten how to drive.
surprisingly, left foot braking is also easier on track, little dab on the brake with your left foot while mid corner to tuck the line in feels surprisingly natural.
hahhahaha funny you should mention that, first time I ever tried left foot braking I thankfully made sure I was in a large empty area...you'd never think you'd stop that quick when using your left foot.....
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. I find it a lot easier on a track while braking at 100% effort, find it hard to brake lightly and rev match, as I struggle to keep a constant pressure on the brake pedal. a lot easier when you really stand on the brakes.
I find that tricky as well when practising on the road, I tend to find that I "stab" the brakes a tiny bit by accident when going for the throttle.
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That is indeed what you'll do (as well as press the brakes too hard and all kinds of other fun nooby errors) while learning to heel-toe, but you'll get the hang of it. Nothing else needs to be said. Learn by doing and it'll come to you. The right shoes help (there are no right shoes, its a personal thing), and a lightweight flywheel made it a little easier for me, cos the default throttle input on the Z is a bit laggy (why some people fit those pedal booster things) so the light flywheel helps the engine get up and down a bit quicker. I still don't always hit exactly exactly the revs I want (and in these cases, you can be quicker or slower with the clutch to correct, to a point) especially when I'm driving 'excitedly', but it's close enough.
Slightly over-revving is somewhat damped by the fact you're on the brakes anyway, under revving simply feels like you didn't heel-toe enough, so slows you down markedly faster, again not the end of the world but will ruin your line on turn in.Thanks for your reply, a lightweight flywheel is certainly on my list of things to do. It probably doesn't help that I'm normally in heavy boots when trying it haha ahh well, it's all a learning experience
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While I understand the theory of heel-toe downshifting I've always wondered if there is a tolerance to what RPM range you should attempt to match or does bringing the engine speed too far over the transmission speed just is damaging? i.e. Should you be within X RPM of the transmission speed when you blip the throttle?
To give an example to explain what I mean:
Perfect scenario - I'm driving in third at 2,000 RPM and downshift into second. I blip the throttle to 3,000 RPM and when the clutch is released the revs stay at 3,000 RPM (the actual RPM of the transmission).
Hypothetical scenario - I'm driving in third at 2,000 RPM and downshift into second. I blip the throttle to 4,500 RPM and when the clutch is released the revs drop to 3,000 RPM (the actual RPM of the transmission).
Is that hypothetical scenario causing just as much wear to the clutch compared to not rev-matching at all?
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Just wondering has anyone had the rear carbon arches fitted? Just looking some info into how difficult the process is or if any professional bodyshop be able to fit them without problems?
These are the ones I'm talking about for reference - http://seiboncarbon.co.uk/products/carbon-fiber-rear-fenders-for-2002-2005-nissan-350z.html
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legend says, if you place in the feather from a golden eagle, you gain exactly 666bhp when you sit a virgin in the passenger seat.....
paahhahahahahahaahahahaahahaha we could have a winner here
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The last dude who went finger first into there nevery came back. Aparantly on a clear winters night when the moon is full and you park on the roof of a multistorey carpark and look out, you can see a strange orange glow on the horizon and the feint sound of what sounds like a very small man trapped in a matchbox.......
That's what I was worried about, I've been contemplating sacrificing some livestock to try and appease the Z spirits.
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Just wondering if anyone knows where the hole that appears when the handbrake is engaged goes to...and if...say....someone dropped something down there would there be any cause for worry?
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While getting the W-Brace replaced on my 350 today my mechanic phoned to say he'd found serious rust and sent a couple of pictures. I'm just wondering if anyone has come across something similar and if anyone would have any idea what the costs involved in fixing this would be?
My mechanic mentioned that the rear suspensions and fuel tank may have to be removed to establish how extensive of a repair will be needed.
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not planning on seeing massive gains
plenum spacer
ark grip exhaust
Pop Charger
berk test pipes
You should get a nice difference with all that, as far a Z's go, can I ask you post up the dyno chart after you get it done?
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Thanks, yea I forgot to mention it's for daily driving with the odd track day.
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If the suspension doesn't knock, nor does the vehicle fail MOT for worn bushes I wouldn't worry too much. No idea regarding labour for the lot mind.
Well my MOT is in a few weeks so I guess that'll be one way to find out haha Thanks
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Cheers, my worry would be that there's worn out OE bushes about (100k miles, 2003). How many hours labor do you think would be in fitting the full kit?
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So excuse the staggering ignorance in the following post but when I was in getting my 350 aligned the bolts were seized. I'm planning on replacing these but wanted to upgrade my bushes while I am at it.
Now my question is what bushes would be the best to upgrade in terms of "feeling" the difference when driving?
As much as I want to go and buy this I'd shudder at the cost of labor, never mind the cost of the kit itself.
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The "pops and bangs" aren't as loud and intrusive as you think. I don't think I've noticed mine with daily driving at all, I've a '03 DE.
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I think they were a later option for the roadsters, this thread might help:
http://www.350z-uk.c...50z-seat-types/
I think you could only get them if you upgraded the orange leather, could be wrong though.
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You wouldn't remember the make/model of your bonnet would you?
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Did you buy them locally, Colin, or online?
I bought them locally (Kerrs Tyres, Newtownards), will probably order online next time but was in a hurry and was just handier.
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No probs fella. Please let us know how you get on with them, will be very interested to see what they're like on a 350.
I've had them for about three months now, over the moon with them but to be fair they're the first proper performance tyre I've had on a car so I may not be the best judge! I've not had any unexpected tail out incidents on them, even in the pouring rain and wheel spin is a thing of the past if that's any use haha
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Tyre pressures are set by the manufacturer based on using OEM tyres, so as soon as you stop using those then that pressure no longer applies. You wouldn't run 35psi if you put 888s on, would you?!
So Strudel is kind of right, but only if you're using Bridgestones, which you're not.The correct thing to do is adjust pressure based on how the new tyres feel, which is mostly based on sidewall stiffness, and also how you intend to use them. For example, 888s on track would be around 26-28psi, but the MPSS work better with a couple extra psi in so about 37psi would be more appropriate. I've yet to try the MPS4, however given that Michelin sidewalls are usually a tad softer than other manufacturers (which is why you get good feedback from them), then I'd suggest the same 37psi as a starting point.
However, as with all things they should be adjusted to suit the driver and how he feels they're performing for him. If you think they're a tad skittish, drop them back to 35 or even lower. As long as they're not ballooning massively in the middle which would be shown by excessive wear in the centre, or so floppy that the edges are wearing much quicker, there's no right or wrong. Just do whatever you feel makes the car feel happiest to you
Great bit of info there, many thanks!
Seibon Rear Carbon Arches
in Styling
Posted
Cheers guys, I have a rusty arch and was thinking of replacing both wings with carbon ones but if the second skin still remains I guess it doesn't really fix the issue and that could just rust through underneath.