Strudul

Sounds good. £17.49 here or £22.85 through Opie (ebay)

I spent hours if not days looking through all the threads about which engine oil to use, everyone has different opinions, but generally, as long as it's fully synthetic and the right viscosity grade, you can't go wrong, but the more you spend the better it is. in the end I went for Fuchs TITAN GT1 PRO FLEX XTL. Got it from Opie, but through their ebay store as it was a bit cheaper. I did read a couple of bad things about Castrol, Mobil1 and Royal Purple, but these were just opinions, so don't let that put you off too much. Heard nothing but good stuff about Motul and Fuchs (Silkolene) though. General consensus also seemed to be that you should go for an ester based oil if you don't mind spending a little more for the best. Fuchs Titan Race Pro S seems very highly recommended.

Well since 'grammer' isn't a real word, it's pretty hard to have any of it. That being said the comma, periods, and eroteme are grammar

Don't remember the plates. If it was private, it wasn't anything overly fancy. Pre-facelift lights though. I'm always parked just up the road at DW. Free parking cos there's no cameras or attendants

if the gearbox goes, surely there is the cheaper option of repairing it rather than needing a complete replacement. Might be a lot of labour, but should still be cheaper than a new box. If a replacement is required, you can always buy a used one for a lot less and then just pay someone to swap it in. Are there really that many reported issues with the 7AT though for it to be such a concern? You could buy the most reliable car ever and still have everything break, likewise you could buy an Audi and have no problems whatsoever. As long as you have some spare cash just in case, I wouldn't worry about it too much.

Walk past here most days, only the 2nd time I've seen it.

Oh wow, that's awful. My Grammar is usually impeccable. I must've re-read my post 50 times, never thought to check the title. Umm, wasn't joking about the ESP being off, and everything was fine until this happened: Left it firmly on since then and been hyper-aware on every corner.

Hold up, what's wrong with my grammar?

Hmm, this was a good read...

Can afford to do both (the mods I'm planning are super cheap). Only problem is the tight Northerner in me not wanting to "waste" money when it doesn't seem necessary. I don't feel like I'm having any problems as long as I drive sensibly, but I guess what's the point having a 300bhp RWD car if I have to drive like my grandma. Appreciate the advice anyway. Will try convince myself and get something sorted. Might need to go watch some vids on the difference between good and bad tyres and the dangers involved.

Yeah, as i said, I bought it like that. I did question the dealer at the time, but he just shrugged. I believe the front tyres are matching, is it possible to swap those with my rears or are they different sizes? (Not an ideal solution, but better than current?) Thanks (I think?) ESP is off for now.

So I seem to be slipping about a lot now it's winter and I'm thinking the problem is my rear tyres more than anything. One is an Evergreen EU72 and the other is a Riken Maystorm 2. Obviously for starters mixing brands is less than ideal, but that's how the car came when I bought it. Plenty of tread on them, and they seem to be equal and wearing evenly, I just have doubts about their performance. Am I going to see a massive difference if I change them? Should I really change them ASAP or am I fine to keep using them until they reach the legal limit? Is it really worth going for more expensive tyres? It's not like I'm struggling, I just have to be more cautious than I feel I could be with expensive fancy tyres. Thoughts?

Gotta love burnt tips.

"Accidentally" catch his face with your knee

Yeah, I understand where you guys are coming from. Thing is I feel like I'd have no issues even if my headlights were reduced by 50%, but I guess it's hard to imagine without actually experiencing it. Anyway, as I said in the OP, I'm mainly planning to do the tail lights, with headlights only being a possibility (which I guess we will scrap for now). As tail lights just need to be visible, not light up the road, I guess there's much less of an issue with tinting them? Surely even with tints you can see them a mile off?

Nice idea, but there's no Lexus alternative (sporty coupe) in a similar price range (RC is £30k+). Jag XK on the other hand.... Though if manual is a must, you are pretty much left with the 370Z, Z4 or Cayman.

Park and side lights seem interchangeable, though Nissan refers to our park lights as being the front facing bulbs and side lights as the little orange LEDs.

Ah, in that case you were using the right lights in your initial comment. You're supposed to use your dipped lights in fog (alongside fog lights if you've got them). My understanding is that the generally accepted terms are full / main / high beam and low / dipped beam.

Yes. You would need an extremely big 3D printer (industrial size/very expensive) to do that all in one go or you would have to split the CAD up and print the pieces separately on smaller beds, glue them together afterwards and then hand finish it (would be subject to warping & all sorts of problems). The cost of which would be ridiculous to achieve in materials alone let alone the time it would take on the machine. Just not financially viable. Fair nuf Must be a better way to do it with plastic though?

Might wait for spring at least before I do it then. Could you say for sure that you wouldn't have faced the same problem even with no tint (from the fog being so bad)? Yes...... definately makes a huge difference driving in fog with tinted headlights, the visibility is horrendously bad. Have driven in fog since then and had no problem with just the main beam on. Even when driving at night and clear weather your lighting is hugely reduced, compared to oem lighting, honestly, leave it for the summer months mate. Hope you mean dipped

Would it be that hard to 3D print some plastic ones? Just a thought...

Might wait for spring at least before I do it then. Could you say for sure that you wouldn't have faced the same problem even with no tint (from the fog being so bad)?

Isn't using your main / high beam the worst thing you can do (and illegal)? Light will just be reflected back by the fog.

Obviously expecting some dimming, it's inevitable if you're blocking light with something. Personally I've not had any problems with the current light output of my headlights. They don't work very well when there are streetlamps about, but at that point the streetlamps do their job and provide enough light to see anyway. Then when it gets nice and dark on unlit roads I find them to be rather good. When it's dark, you eyes are very sensitive to even the smallest light, so I find it hard to believe that even with a 50% reduction of light there would be an issue.

Will the complete one have been divorced properly and therefore plug and play?