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Strudul

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Posts posted by Strudul

  1. Ah, ninja'd, yeh, that's got everything you need.

    81KYVj107EL._SL1500_.jpg

     

    Left goes on your tap. The pressure washer will have similar pre-installed.

     

    The 2 middle connectors go on either end of your hose.

     

    The right is an adjustable nozzle that you can clip into one of the middle connectors instead of your pressure washer.

  2. Got a link to what you ordered?

     

    You will need a connector on each end of the hose and on your tap.

     

    You will have connector like these on your outside tap and on the back of your pressure washer:

    Gardena-Threaded-Tap-Connector_1.jpg

     

    And will need these connectors on each end of the hose to connect to them

    hozelock-snap-connector-2166-to-fit-spray-guns-sprinklers-garden-hose-pipe-etc-52167-p.jpg

  3. Thanks for the advice, really looking forward to using it all!?

    Are you asking or telling? :lol:

     

    Also, just to check, the hose pipe you've ordered comes with connectors / you've ordered connectors too?

  4. Personal opinion is that snow foam is a gimmick and waste of water / money / time. All it does is act as a pre-wash to remove some dirt before you do your actual wash.

    Sorry, I'm intrigued by this... what exactly do you expect snow foam to do?

    My understanding is that it will loosen some of the dirt which you will rinse off, so when you come to do your proper wash your car starts off a bit cleaner. This means slightly less work and chance of rubbing dirt into the paint causing scratches and your mitt won't get as dirty, so you don't have to rinse it / replace your water as often. However, the benefits are offset by the extra time / cost required to do it in the first place, you still have to put effort into the main wash, and your car won't be any cleaner in the end.

     

    Unless you car is absolutely filthy, a quick rinse before washing is more than enough.

  5. Personal opinion is that snow foam is a gimmick and waste of water / money / time. All it does is act as a pre-wash to remove some dirt before you do your actual wash.

  6. 1. Plastic primer on metal is fine. (Metal primer doesn't work on plastic though.)

     

    2. Just whack the door card off, it only takes a minute. There's a few guides around, but you just pop some bits off and undo a few screws. Use a magnetic screwdriver next time or use a toilet roll tube to stop it falling down.

     

    3. I'd guess there might be something you can poke, but I'm inclined to say you have to go through the boot and record it for our entertainment :lol:

  7. Legally speaking you don't need reverse lights at all, they don't form part of an MOT, they're there for courtesy and to illuminate in the dark only. At one point yank tanks didn't have them at all. In terms of light strength for your fogs, they need to be as bright as your brake lights, but again, there is no equipment used on your mot to verify this. Your indicators MUST be orange in colour when flashing. And you can fail an MOT for 'light seriously affected by another bulb'. So if you have combined reverse/hazard strips and they stop being orange when you reverse, that's a fail.

    Personally I'd scrap the reverse light and concentrate on indicators and fogs.

    Aye, I know they aren't required, but they are useful. I have a long driveway to reverse up, which is already a pain at night, nevermind without any light :(

     

    Had a thought though, seeing as I don't really care how the reverse / fog lights look, I just have a hankering for sequentials, could I leave those as bulbs and just run an LED strip for only indicators along the top? Still have the same concerns about light pollution, but don't know the extent of the issue or how strict the rules are, though I could always fashion some aluminium dividers. My other worry would be heat from the bulbs, but if I swap out the fog and reverse bulbs for (chromed) LEDs, I'm assuming it would be fine?

  8. Would it be legal to re-purpose the 3rd brake light as a fog light?

    I2TK6lW.png?1

     

    As for combining the reverse light and direction indicators, I found this:

    Reason for Rejection

    2. A direction indicator:

    h. adversely affected by the operation of another lamp e.g. dual function lamps on foreign vehicles.

    Would that mean I'd need separate lights?

  9. Every year I am glued to the iom tt, the only thing I dont watch is the zero tt (electric), we have 5 senses, remove any one or more of those, in this case obviously sound and the experience is diminished beyond recognition, its like eating without being able to taste, you might as well have a sh*t sandwich.

    I think I'd be happy enough watching racing without being able to taste or touch it... :lol:

  10. Try and source a 2nd hand pair, maybe Jon @ Emperor has some before he closes down to experiment on mate.

    I cant really comment as I went down the the usual cleared out lens and LED bulb route.

    Oh yeah, was definitely gonna pick up a spare set to play with. Can't be having something go wrong without a spare and end up with the Z off the road with the rear lights melted to the inside of my oven :lol:

  11. The problem as I see it is unless you redesign the internals its going to look exactly like someone has just laid some LED strips inside a bulb housing. You will still have the holes for the bulbs, the bulb surrounds etc. So unless you can think of a solution to either hide this or gut them out I dont think it will look right.

    Gutting would be the plan, then something can be fashioned to go behind the LED strips to look nice, though you'll still see 2 white tubes...

     

    Tinting would work to hide it, but I reckon it'd affect the light output too much to be an option.

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