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Eigen

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    Ljubljana, Slovenia

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  1. Too bad been looking for a front Rays for some time, but as I am located in Slovenia, its a no go. Good luck with the sale, they look to be in great condition.
  2. For sale, new in box, surplus to requirements as I've upgraded with aftermarket sway bars some time ago. Great quality poly bushings. https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/suspension-steering/bushes/852-350z-de-prothane-front-sway-bar-bushing-kit-34mm-03-04-14-111514-1115-bl.html 27 pounds pay-palled and shipped to UK or within EU.
  3. An absolute classic! Thanks for sharing.
  4. Thanks! Yeah its a great track, definitely worth going to. Not too far for you UK guys either and its right next to the Adriatic and Croatia's beaches! A stop by the Nordscheliefe, onto the Swiss Alp passes, a stop at an Italian circuit and a finish in Rijeka at Grobnik before retiring to a nice beach town further south. Now that would be an actual Gumball worth attending!
  5. Yeah its a great circuit, used to be a Moto GP circuit in the old days, which is why it's so smooth. They just recently installed new tarmac, which is why I am driving it, avoided it in the past due its reputation as a tire shredder. Suspension is more or less set with bushing and anti-roll bars, I've been putting off the coil-overs for two seasons now as I need the ride height, stock I am at the bare minimum to get the car up the mountain road to my summer house, which I enjoy greatly as the first section of the road is a great alpine hillclimb. However, the lack of dampening is causing notable chassis oscillation and instability requiring more steering input and decreased predictability at track speeds, so something will have to be done. Maybe i'll just buy a set of shocks, if I can't decide. I am also an Ohlins fan and they would be first choice without a doubt, however, for some reason the 350Z coilover set is not TUV approved, which means I cannot get the mod approved at the local version of your MOT, this could lead to a massive fine and other issues down the road, something I would prefer to avoid, hence my dilemma. No problem, HEADPHONES, thanks for watching! and replying .
  6. The Z really is a great handling car, however, as can be seen from the video my struts/shocks are on the way out. Any recommendations? Been think KW V3, Bilstein or Ohlins.. However, I hear some have reliability issues with KW, Bilstein are more reliable but valved more for street, while Ohlins are nto TUV certified.... Any other brand with TUV certification that I am missing?
  7. It can be quite an easy job, but if the center tube is rusted a major PIA. My driver's side came right off, the passenger side took me some time, it was literally rust welded. Even after cutting it up with a Dremel, I had to spray anti-rust WD40 for overnight to get it to budge with a larger pipe wrench. It can easily go from an afternoon job to taking an extra day imo, depending on the cars mileage. Also be careful removing the nut from the captive chassis bolts, there have been cases where the bolt's were snapped off. Make sure the the breaker bar is on straight before torquing. (I pressed it against the chassis with a lift)
  8. Thanks, that must be it, the HR is a noticeably smoother engine based on my experience. DE's, run like tractor engine's, but you can't argue with the torque. Great exhaust setup BTW, if I were running an HR, which actually responds to N/A mods, that's the direction I would go. Must howl in the upper RPM ranges, but I imagine its not exactly silent.
  9. Interesting, i will have to try it out. I also installed a steel fly for the same reason. Agreed on the performance aspect though, an absolute godsend on tight tracks. What exhaust are you running, btw? I do not notice the noise when i have my exhaust valve open, only under the stock exhaust. Any extra vibrations with the mount? Bte are you running an HR or DE?
  10. Yes i am particularly interested in the noise aspect. My current mount, from hardrace, uses a rubber bushing encased in alu, so performance wise it should be the same, perhaos better as it is a very stiff rubber. However, it looks like the one you have installed uses more rubber, which could dampen noise a bit, which as ive mentioned is already enhanced on my end by a 19lb single mass flywheel. What flywheel are your running in yours? How is the noise upto 2-3k under load?
  11. Yes, definitely look at the lower control arm bushings. Mine were torn completely with the the LCA having slid down the bushings shaft, I replaced them with the Whiteline LCA bushing set, I am happy so far, but I've only put 2k on the car since install. In general the compression arm and LCA bushings are the weak spots of the front suspension, due to the direction of the forces being applied to them, if your compression arm bushings/arms are new, the LCA's are the second place to look,
  12. Very interesting, wonder how it would compare to my current mount, might check it out. As far as the drivetrain is concerned, I do not believe and significant additional damage is occurring to the drivetrain, I would say that the transmission crossmember and its bolts are experiencing added stress due to the increase in forces being transmitted.
  13. Yes, it's normal. It gets even more interesting with a lightened single mass flywheel. Sounds like a Huey at low revs, with my South Bend Quiet Disk / 19lb flywheel combo. That said, I went for the HARDRACE, alu/rubber mount, as the hard poly 75A+ trans mounts are documented as being very loud/vibraty. With the HARDRACE mount the vibrations are pretty minimal, but the noise I considerably deeper/louder.
  14. Final drive will do it, but expect fuel economy to suffer and high revs at highway speeds. A small mod, that might be worthwhile if you have a DE is to get rid of the parasitic idler pulley, it will lose you about 500g of rotating mass from the engine, not a whole lot, but it is a very cheap mod ~20 pounds in parts, all you need is a smaller belt and a spacer, cheaper if you can machine the necessary spacer.
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