mr v6

Replaced the n/s/f droplink this morning. I've done a number of these over the years so the one on the Z wasn't too bad in comparison. The lower nut came off easily as it was counterheld with a 19mm spanner, the upper one however was stubborn. The ring around it started to spin when you went to undo the nut, the usual allen or torx fitting on the end of the thread wasn't there. No matter how much clamping I got on it with various sizes of molegrips, the shaft would just spin independently of that locking ring around it. I ended up using a grinder to cut through it. If I have to do one again I won't be using molegrips.

Next job, rear pads, then a front bumper repair & respray along with the wings & roof.

I fitted a Blackvue DR650GW 2 camera kit into a friends Volvo estate powered with something called a Magic box. Quality was superb, as were the features within the camera, the app also available. Not cheap at the time just over £320 it cost him to buy it, obviously it was fitted properly at mates rates of £0.00p.

You get what you pay for with these as you can buy them for peanuts nowadays, but the cheap ones can be bulky.

By like for like I mean the Potenza's but the newer 050 tyre.

I will be replacing like for like on the fronts as the rears have loads of tread left. Only today I noticed (a year on) my rears are 255/45/18, so obviously the previous owner went for the slightly wider rears.

I too am after a set of these, but some sellers seem to overprice them, just because..

Glad you like it. I looked at many before getting the mopedmark one, I've not looked back. The weight is perfect, as are the markings.

Both the Avon & Falkens were on 2 versions of a 406 Coupe, both in V6 form, both with 16" alloys. I'm going to stick with the RE050A's because, if it's not broke, don't fix it.

I need to replace both front tyres within the next couple of months, they're currently Bridgestone RE040. Both of the rears are Bridgestone RE050. A few tyre places are telling me the 050 are now replaced with the T001 & S001, yet the 050 are still available. I've had no grip issues in either the wet or dry, car handles as well as you'd expect, so is it best to stick with 050 on the front for a matching set? I've had good experience with Avon ZZ5 & Flaken ZIEX on previous cars, but I'd like to keep the Z as close to standard as I can.

Any info on replacement would be nice.

There'll always be a small area around the outer edge of the disc where the lip forms over time, also the inner where it's outside of the pads contact area. You may have a sticking piston, or corrosion under the sliders: See here

Great results. It takes guts using something like UC to soft Japanese paint though. Did you get a paint depth reading done prior to using it? Always best to be safe than sorry. I've had my DAS6 for almost 9 years & it's still going strong. I tried a DAS6 Pro & sound it moved & vibrated too much for my liking, but on hard German paint the extra grunt helped. Have been looking at clay cloths myself but I prefer the hands on old way of doing it using Bilt Hamber clay & water as lube.

I did a black Jag XF last year that belongs to my sisters fella. It was always intended to be done withing the day, so not 100% perfect. Have a look at the end results here: http://www.mrv6.co.uk/detailing/jagxf/

Cheers for the replies guys, at least it's not just my system that appears to be like this.

I've been looking at spacers lately, but was worried whether there'd be extra stress on the hub / bearing assembly with the wheels being further away than they should.

It could possibly be, if not it was something close.

On 16/08/2017 at 17:57, SpeckUK said:

Mines been on for about a year now and I wouldn't say it's mirror it's more just stainless  but hey I bet if I spent a few good hours it might get close!

Yours doesn't have the burnt tips, I presume you opted not to have them? Yours looks like what mine does. I've been out again tonight with some Megs NXT metal polish to clean it up. I could probably get a better finish if I spent longer on it, but to be honest, I don't fancy lying on the ground for that long, neighbours will think I'm odd.

Looks good so far paint job appears a good matte factory finish. Am following this thread.

I was in the Golf going the other way today around noon, couldn't tell at a quick glance whether it was silver or grey. Number plate was similar to S1 KNX, something along those lines. Male driver with sunglasses on.

My previous 2 cars have had 4 pot Brembo's on the front & both have suffered from this. The calipers are aluminium & the sliders in which the pads move along are stainless steel. Corrosion builds up under the sliders & in time they lift slightly, effectively reducing the gap in which the new pads fit.

Yesterday I set out to replace the front pads. Gladly all pistons & boots were moving freely, old pads were Delphi, not sure who makes the grooved discs though. I started out with a set of Ferodo pads, the inner pads on both calipers needed tapping in. Took it for a drive & this caused the Z to drag & slow down quickly by itself. As I had no file or grinder I had to use the old inner pad for the n/s/f. Today I removed that pad & the inner pad on the o/s/f (which wasn't as bad) & took a grinder to the edge to get it to fit.

The only remedy I've had experience on with Brembos is to remove the caliper, split it in half to remove the little button torx screws, take the stainless slider off & clean up the corrosion underneath. I have a spare caliper from my old car at home that I'm in the process of refurbing with new seals, paint job & decals.

I did a search but couldn't find anything about this on here using the word 'corrosion' in the search engine. There's a guide & extra info on club I run here: http://www.406coupeclub.org/Files/HowToGuides/Brakes - Refurbish stainless steel slider plates on Brembo callipers.pdf

This system was already on the car when I bought it a year ago, I've seen a number of pics of the system both on here & the internet & they all appear to have a mirror finish, whereas mine is sort of a satin finish. I've polished it with Autosol, Mothers MAG & aluminium polish & Megs NXT metal polish. It comes up better, but certainly not a mirror finish I wanted. Their website as of now doesn't give you a choice of finishes other than the tailpipe..

No probs guys, I've removed the pic. It was a totally above board emissions test on my car with the factory cats still in place, I'm not totally sure why there's an issue with the results being posted. They're just a fair place I've used for years for all sorts or repairs etc.

What's dodgy about it? Nothing on my Z is illegal, they're just a good place to go to. Only trying to help fellow Z owners. 

A few weeks early on the MOT as I like to get it done in good time. I've always worried about the emissions as in previous cars I've run decats. Att'd is a printout of the emisions test. He pointed out I needed to replace the n/s/f droplink, this was confirmed as there's been a knocking noise for a while now. Also pads all round in the near future, but I have replacements at home so no issues there, as long as non of the pistons give me trouble. He did recommend wire brushing the rear end down & putting some Waxoyl on it, which I'll do of course. Just glad it passed without any major issues.

If there's anyone in the Manchester area looking for a 'friendly' tester, I've been to him before, as have other people, they're a good place to deal with. He did ask if it was decatted, that way he knew how to go about it lol.

Oddly this week I've had the cheapest quote I've ever had for car insurance in my 22 years of driving. From 2005 to 2014 I've owned 2 Pug 406 Coupes in V6 form over 2 different PSA V6 engines. My current insurers wanted £734, then came down to £500. The insurance department of where I work wanted £1327 after employee discount. Anyhow, after trying Prestige, Chris Knott & Adrian Flux, I went on Comparethemarket & Axa came up with £398. After adding my dad on the policy & doing a bit of altering of details. I ended up with a fully comp & protected policy, legal cover, able to drive other cars ect for just £325 for the year... That's just change isn't it? It pays to shop around, don't be afraid to be cheeky & ask for money off ect, also play them all off against each other, they want your business more than anything else at the end of the day.

3 hours ago, Jake.Lowther said:

Might give you guys a call later, since Adrian Flux quoted me £8000  

Oddly AF quoted me £734 today, when I told them Axa will do better cover for £398, they came down to £500.

It's all well & good going out & spending £xx amount on products & doing it yourself. You need to have an idea on what level of correction or enhancement you need, then which products suit your needs. If the amount you're going to spend on products & equipment is more than what you'd spend on someone to do the job for you, then why not just let that person do it for you. On the other hand, if you're willing to spend to get the gear together yourself (costs vary greatly), then not only can you do the job yourself, you've still got the gear to do it next time, then on your mates car for mates rates etc.

I started out by buying a Kestrel DAS-6 9 years ago, I still have it & it works perfectly. Over the years I've bought various pads & polishes to do jobs on my own cars, neighbours cars, friends, family & customers cars. I don't do this as a full time job as it'd bore me to death, but kudos to those that do it daily. I do it occasionally, that way I find it interests me more & I take more care when doing the job. As recommended above, Obsidians work is superb, I've seen plenty of it on DW (although I find the whole site far too anal, it grinds my gears). I do have a full time job, but feel free to browse through my pics of other cars here: http://www.mrv6.co.uk/detailing/

I'm an amateur & do it as a hobby, when I can be bothered & have a spare full day with the right weather.

Here you go: https://www.350z-uk.com/profile/9648-zmanalex/