mr v6

This could be the same Z I spotted a while ago: 

Had a big rear spoiler, carbon style front & rear side skirts add ons along with a front lip. Didn't see who was in it as I was in a hurry to get home. I was parked just 3 rows on front of it.

I noticed a slight chirp upon startup on my Z in the cold weather last year, I tightened the tensioner just a smidge & it was fine ever since.

I also had a horrible metal on metal clang. I had that same bush appear to be working it's way out of the arm. I had my local mechanic remove the arm & press in a new bush I supplied him: 

Common on my old 406 Coupes, it was the connector under the seat in them, we cut the connector out & solder the wires together. Assuming yours is the same issue? Might be worth having the codes read to narrow it down.

Not sure how the Z setup is, but possible bearing failure in the top mount?

Easy enough to do yourself with basic tools. Can't remember the last time I let a garage service any of my cars.

Only spotted this at the last minute, reg ended in XDA or similar. Around 4.20pm today so it was going dark, was either silver or grey.

Like the look of louvers but the fact they can only be fitted one way using adhesive, it coming off at motorway speeds worries me.

I was going to suggest heat, how did you get round it in the end? Did you try anything like the Easy-out sockets?

Reg had NPV at the end, blue 53 plate with an aftermarket front bumper & a big rear wing, around 10.30am this morning.

I did mine back in July, they still look fresh now: https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/117550-10-min-headlight-resto/

Is the Z specific to Nissans green coolant, or could it be substituted for an alternative like red Dexcool or similar? I would replace with the genuine stuff personally.

I replaced my front pads about 2 months ago, old ones were Delphi, new ones were Ferodo, they weren't the DS range, they were only about £40 & perform well with the grooved discs already on the front, not sure what make they are but there's no squeal.

6 hours ago, karlh said:

Both side windows should lower if you hold down the unlock button on the remote fob or hold the key in the door lock to the unlocked position. 

Really? I've seen this on American Z's on YT but this doesn't work on mine.

I too am not a fan of that lip that has the huge ankle chopping edges on, just my opinion of course. How does it fit, adhesive, sealant, screws etc?

2 hours ago, Declangibbs said:

Where did you find your problem?

 

just tried bypassing the clutch position sensor and didn't fix the issue. Ordered a new one anyways.

 

The battery positive connection was loose.

On 01/10/2017 at 11:45, Declangibbs said:

would it be battery connections if I'm still getting all electrics?

I was getting that, then the demand on the electrical system took it's toll. Your case maybe very different, some methodical, basic electrical tests should point you in the direction of the fault.

Just to add to this, have you had it plugged in to read for any stored or pending codes?

Just to add, I had a similar issue last year, not had the problem since sorting out the battery positive terminal connection:  https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/113080-faulty-starter-motor/

It may help, it may not.

Travelling through Stretford, Manchester this morning towards the direction of town about 6.50am. Couldn't make out the reg, but it was grey & passing the Honda dealership.

I don't fancy keeping either in the Z, plus there's a gap for it.

Quality of that looks pretty decent... Anyone else notice the amount of Z's in the video...

Only noticed today my Z doesn't have the wheel chock, it's missing from the space. I have a pair at home, but I like to keep things original, so doesn't anyone have one to fit the tool kit area. If so, how much posted? Unless you're in Manchester & I can collect.

Replaced the n/s/f droplink this morning. I've done a number of these over the years so the one on the Z wasn't too bad in comparison. The lower nut came off easily as it was counterheld with a 19mm spanner, the upper one however was stubborn. The ring around it started to spin when you went to undo the nut, the usual allen or torx fitting on the end of the thread wasn't there. No matter how much clamping I got on it with various sizes of molegrips, the shaft would just spin independently of that locking ring around it. I ended up using a grinder to cut through it. If I have to do one again I won't be using molegrips.

Next job, rear pads, then a front bumper repair & respray along with the wings & roof.

I fitted a Blackvue DR650GW 2 camera kit into a friends Volvo estate powered with something called a Magic box. Quality was superb, as were the features within the camera, the app also available. Not cheap at the time just over £320 it cost him to buy it, obviously it was fitted properly at mates rates of £0.00p.

You get what you pay for with these as you can buy them for peanuts nowadays, but the cheap ones can be bulky.