Tom_K

Interesting that you mention imgur. I looked this up last night and tried Google photos; that doesn't give jpeg links so the images aren't embedded. Then I tried imgur and it seemed more like an Instagram type deal?

Try doing the same as above but use rivnuts. Maybe a bit overkill but works! Check out my project thread if you like, i did that on mine.

I used to use photobucket but it's become really bloated and slow lately. What do you guys use to embed pictures into threads these days? I've got my project thread I want to update but the thought of continuing to use Photobucket makes me want to give up lol

I thought I was the only one! I really enjoyed the US Top Gear with Tanner, Rutledge and Adam. I thought it was a good mix of guys/experience.

Thanks both. Not so much for the straight cut box advice 😋 Great but not happening on this car. Funnily enough I found emperor tuning selling a box on eBay and though the advert was great combined with a video. Fair play to effort involved in the advertising there. His advert put me onto the different box codes which helps but I'm still wondering whether the cd001 (as I assume I have in mine) can be rebuilt with cd009 internals or if I can just buy a cd009 and put that in. My concerns there are whether or not the cd009 is strong enough to chuck in without a 'precautionary' rebuild.

Merry Christmas everyone! I'll start with the usual 'sorry if this has been asked before' but I have tried searching and couldn't quite find the info I wanted. So, I have a 2003 350gt (g35) with the 6 speed manual and recently replaced the clutch, flywheel, slave, oil etc It's highlighted that what I though was clutch release bearing noise is in fact coming from the gearbox. It's whiney when the clutch pedal is up, and the noise is still there in 1st, 2nd, less so in 3rd and then gets less and less. Plus it's notchy between 1st and 2nd, hot and cold, but a bit better when hot. So, as mine is an early model, did they improve the boxes at all? Can my box be rebuilt with updated parts? Are there later boxes that are bullet proof that can therefore be bought used and just fitted without concern? Im trying to weigh up options of rebuilding or replacing, or replacing with a rebuilt unit and part exchanging mine in if anyone offers that service? Any advice much appreciated

I got a clutch and flywheel from CMS and have to say, I don't notice any chatter and am really happy with it so far. The fact I don't notice any noise might be down to the fact my gearbox is pretty noisy though lol As for pedal feel; it's maybe a little stiff but it was horrendous before and I don't know what they're supposed to feel like so to me, it's fine.

Stu, Yes! Sounds crazy but I really had high hopes. Youtube it and you'll see. Either way though, it didn't work lol Sargara, Yes, replaced the dual mass with a single mass from CMS. Feels completely fine, no untoward noises as far as I can hear and revs more freely too. The only thing is has done is accentuate my already slightly noisy gearbox.

Well I can see you're all mightily impressed by my thread but I thought I'd let you all know it passed it's MOT the other day with some very flattering comments from the tester I'll update with some pictures of the most recent work soon; window motor re-build and central locking fixed.

Hi All, Just to bump this back up for a bit more info: I think I'm going to put some Molyslip in when I do the oil, are there different kinds? and how much is recommended to put in?

OK, update time! So, the clutch and flywheel took a lot longer than planned for a couple of reasons but I'll go into that; I've never done a clutch or flywheel on anything before but wanted to learn, so I ordered a flywheel, clutch, new slave cylinder and braided hose kit from Clark Motorsport (plus some oil but I didn't around to doing that, so that's another weekend) This isn't a step by step, or how to of any kind as there are enough of those out there, so here's a load of pictures from the job: In the previous post, I was nearly ready to remove the box, so after removing the cats and lower brace to make a bit more room, it was time to take it off. Easier said than done as it was pretty stuck on one of the locating dowels! So a lot of jiggling and WD40 later, it finally came free. (Not that I plan to, but I put a tiny bit of copper grease on both dowels before putting it back together) The original pivot ball was pretty worn so I replaced that too, along with the clutch release bearing obviously, which btw was clearly worn as it makes a horrible noise spinning it by hand. Now, I'm assuming this is the original clutch and flywheel, as it has Nissan stamped on the clutch. For ~100k I thought it looked remarkably good: However, you can see some heat marks on the flywheel and pressure plate. Now for my biggest headache, the pilot bush! I tried packing bread behind it and hammering in the middle, to force it out from behind (exactly the same principal as using grease, but not as messy) I've seen others do it and heard great success stories...not in my case. The thing would not budge. Reluctantly, I very carefully made a cut to relieve some pressure, going slow and by hand to check how deep I was going... One cut didn't do it, so I had to make another and finally it moved! Then I could get on with the task in hand. I have an unhealthy fear of snapping/stripping bolts so doing up the flywheel and clutch cover was nerve wracking to say the least, but eventually got there. Bleeding the slave cylinder took a while but when I eventually started the car again, I was very relieved...for a second. Now, I'm extremely fussy as you might have already guessed and I was expecting silence from all the new parts, However, it seems the old release was masking the general gearbox noise. Now I know these boxes are known for being a bit agricultural but it was pretty gutting to say the least. Like I said, I did get gearbox oil for it which I'll do soon but I also now want to look into molyslip. Driving it back also highlighted that the slave still needs more bleeding I think as the biting point is very low BUT the clutch bites nicely and horrible judder from the failed dual mass is gone. So it's not there just yet, but it's getting there and I learned a lot.

Update before you go out of your way; it's all done now! I got the specs and carried on. Thanks for the offer though.

Thanks Chubbs! I hope to get the mail tomorrow but if you can do that for me, I'd really appreciate it!

No, not yet. They were going to be e-mails but not had them yet. I got the printed off service bulletin about the release bearing but that's it. You couldn't have a look if you still have them could you?

Afternoon all. So this morning I set about doing the clutch and flywheel. Only spent a couple of hours getting this far at my mates garage, ready to crack on tomorrow. I do need to confirm a couple of torque specs though, so I've got a post up in the technical section hoping that might help. Anyhow, here's a selection of pictures:

Brilliant. Thanks. Also, incase anyone here has installed the Clark Motorsport clutch kit, when I was talking Ewen, he said that the pressure plate needed to be torqued up in specific stages, unique to that kit. Does anyone happen to know what they are? Bit of any update on this, with a few more questions. I'm fitting a a lightweight flywheel and I assume the torque specs will be the same as factory? On that note, the service manual says 88.2Nm but when you look around online, there are a lot of Yanks saying it's around 120 ft/lb! which is about 150 odd Nm. Can someone please confirm? Also, shall I assume the same about the clutch cover specs? Tighten in 2 stages, first at 14.5Nm, second at 39.5NM in a criss-cross pattern. Lastly, just so it's all in one place in case anyone wants to know, I'll be replacing the pivot ball which is 39.5Nm. All of these require red loctite. Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong on any of this. Any help much appreciated.

Afternoon all, Hoping some of you can help. I'm going to be replacing my clutch and flywheel with items from Clark Motorsport and I'd like to know the torque specs, or advice on where to find them, for the flywheel bolts and clutch cover mainly. Also, while your here, any tips of advice on doing this job? Help much appreciated. Thanks

Evening all. Tiny update just to prove things are still moving ever so slowly. A mate bought me this little model when I first got the car and I've been meaning to take some pictures with it, so here are a couple; You might notice the rear is up in the air as I'm removing the rear shocks to give them a lick of paint. Unfortunately the job couldn't have gone more wrong :| The passenger side one came off fine, but the drivers side one was/is a nightmare. The lower bolt is seized into the metal sleeve of the bush, so it ripped the bush apart trying to come undone. THEN it broke the nut off that's welded onto the base of the strut. So I've ordered the new parts and when I pick them up, I'll be doing that. Also finally ordered the clutch kit from Ewen at Clark Motorsport so that's the next big job!

Hi Alex, Thanks for the reply, that's great to hear I can get all the right bits from CMS. The molyslip...what kind of difference does it make? as my gearbox feels fine currently.

Bumping this thread up from the past slightly; I just called Clark motorsport and apparently Ewen is away until Monday. No big deal as I'm not in a rush, but I'll call back on Monday to go through some things. Before then though, can anyone shed some more light on a couple of things: Gearbox oil - I've read a lot of post about molyslip...forgive my ignorance but is this just an additive? and what oil do people recommend? Is it Nissan oil only? Slave cylinder - Are there any different versions depending on vehicle age? Again, any recommendations? or is it Nissan only? I'm happy to do a package deal with a trader but at the same time I want to make sure I get the best parts for my needs. Thanks all.

Mine's been off the road for the last few months being worked on anyway but it's general use is 'whenever it's taxed and I feel like it'. I've had a weekend and a daily car for a while now and the only thing stopping me using something nice every day is the fuel consumption and the thought of it picking up car park damage or being the victim of some jealous low-life. The daily is sacrificial almost, I care about my nice cars.

Looks lovely and clean! A bit of advice surrounding the 'W' brace rust (without wanting to come across like a smart arse). It looks like the stuff you've used is more of a gel that's supposed to dissolve rust and be washed off. What you want is some Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80; it's a 'paint' that converts rust and neutralizes it. It's the best stuff I've used for those kind of treatments.

Small update as I've been spending a lot of time fixing the garden lately instead of the car Before I put everything back together, I thought the front struts, top mounts and brake pipe brackets looked a little tired. So I took them off, took them apart and gave them a lick of paint: Top mounts: Struts:

They suck, for the reasons you mentioned. And yes the pas cooler is the little pipe you can just about see on the left there.

Ridiculous enough for you to consider doing it yourself