DarmoZ

Wow yours went on very neat, Well the seller has agreed to send some new sections, the ones that didn't stick, I know im installing in january, but i made sure the interior was nice and warm with the heater, plus i used heat gun on the parts to get them flexible before installing.

Has anyone installed this product

http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/111849553909

This didn't work for me on the curved sections of the interior, waste of money, I even used a heat gun but no luck.

So i just bought new DBA Discs and Ferodo pads, should i also buy some new shims before installation? i dont think my current pads have shims on them at the moment because they squeel bad at slow stops.Can someone point in the right place please? thanks.

Iv'e used some 3M Scotchprint recently to do my Keys, B-Pillars, Ariel and Fuel cap, all turned out really good, iv'e never wrapped before but it wasn't too difficult, hopefully they will hold up.

I want to do the door handles next which will be challenging but possible, then finally wing mirrors and rear spoiler.

£17 for a roll of scothprint and £6 for a heat gun and squigee of ebay.

I've not got my Zed anymore so can't pop out and just check but I'm pretty sure it was just two bolts holding the fuel flap in place. Remove those and it should just pull off.

 

Let me know if that works & you get it off ok.

After the 2 little bolts are removed just take a moment and watch how it comes out as its a slide out with the cap hinge behind

Thanks! My screws were black and I was looking at night must of missed it haha

Just finished wrapping my ariel and fuel cap ðŸ‘

So I've wrapped my B pillars in 3M scotchprint 1080 carbon fiber wrap and they look great, next is the fuel cap then finally the wing mirrors and spoiler which I will do outside when the weather is better.

Is there an easy way to take the fuel cap lid off? So I can bring indoors and wrap it.

Thanks again Mitz, great recommendation and service for my new Brakes ðŸ‘

 

You have it.

Exactly like that.

 

A 1N40001 or 1N4002 would be fine

such as this

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

I have bought off this seller and parts arrive in a couple of days

So you would be able to tell us which wire we need to splice into for the fog then?

Once I get around to it, I'll take some pics etc... assuming you don't get clarification from Flyboy/someone else before then. I'll be doing this after I get my replacement OS unit though, so will be a few weeks.

Sounds good, iv'e done a little google just now. Im guessing just two diode's needed for the offside (drivers side) carlab light. you would also need to know which wire is the fog light wire coming from the car.

A quick look on ebay I found this: its rated 3A. http://tinyurl.com/gnz55s6

You could also wire it into both brake and fog light functions with a diode in each wire in series to stop the voltage feeding back into the wrong circuit.

You would then have them functioning as brake lights when the fog switch isn't on and fogs when it is.

This is what I have done with the JDM Toys central 370z fog/reverse/brake/tail/light

This sounds like a great idea, but you lost me at Diode and Series, i'm probably being stupid, but any chance you could provide a diagram or guide to illustrate?

I'm after DBA T2 disks and Ferodo pads. For the front. Best price/place to buy?

Also is it worth installing braided brake lines? Is it easy to change to braided or will the whole fluid need flushing etc

Thanks in advanced

No worries mate, Welcome along and good luck on your search and project

9k will get you the Ginger Ninja, great Bang for Buck buy! Loads spent on it, including everything you mentioned. Sound system too. If I had 9k and looking for a Zed that's where I would go.

http://ebay.to/1VwCaY0

 

So the car wouldn't pass MOT with these bulbs due to missing Fog?

 

Not the way Hodaka has them wired up but if you wire the brake light into the fog light circuit they will pass.

 

Cool thanks! So what colour wire is the Fog one then that I need to splice into? Thinking just to do this on the right side, as that's where the wire is I imagine.

 

The fog light on the car I don't have clue, it will be on the right hand side indicator connector. There should be a wire in the right loom that is different from the left loom, try using a multimeter to figure out which is which.

 

 

Sent from my potato using duct tape

Fair enough, if a wire is there on the right side that's not there on left I will try that, otherwise I'm just gonna run them both with the brakes, and get my mate up north to do my MOT's from now on haha

Looks great Find a friendly tester

Got a mate mechanic who would pass MOT for me regardless of the Fog light, but his garage is all the way up north in my hometown!

 

So the car wouldn't pass MOT with these bulbs due to missing Fog?

 

Not the way Hodaka has them wired up but if you wire the brake light into the fog light circuit they will pass.

Cool thanks! So what colour wire is the Fog one then that I need to splice into? Thinking just to do this on the right side, as that's where the wire is I imagine.

This inspection applies to the one rear fog lamp which is required to be fitted to the centre or offside of vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1980.

 

Note: A rear fog lamp is permitted to operate independently of headlamp, position lamp or ignition systems.

 

Personally, that's something I'm more than willing to sort as these do look great! Thanks Tuck again for sorting

So the car wouldn't pass MOT with these bulbs due to missing Fog?

Guide looks way over my head! I got the tools though, anyone near Reading can help me with installation? I'll pay for your time

ok since everyones whoring there zed, here's a little piccy of mine

Nothing wrong with buying private, you can get a good deal and a good car, all MOT history is online now anyway so you know the cars condition

Get the ebay motors app

Good on ya to bring her back. However it's these sort of stories that worry me and make me think I should take out a 3rd party warranty, would your rebuild have been covered under a warranty if u had one? Anyone recomend a good warranty company?

Not a fan of the look of the car, it is very vauhaully. My friend has been in one and he said it was a lots of fun, tons of power as you would expect from a 6.0l V8, sounds great too. Not sure how it handles, check out youtube for video reviews and the vauhaull forum

For those that have an aftermarket head unit with digital time correction functionality here are the settings for zed to achieve proper sound stage.

This will improve your sound quality no end and will also remove harsh noise, making your music pleasant and enjoyable. Note: Everything written here is for a Right Hand Drive Zed.

1) Calculations:

Step 1: Distances from your head to the various speakers:

FL = 46" FR = 30"

Driver

RL = 38" RR = 18"

Step 2: Then calculate the difference in distance of each speaker from the farthest speaker, which is FL.

This will give the numbers we input into the head unit.

FL = 0" FR = 16"

Driver

RL = 8" RR = 28"

2) Input into your head unit:

On Alpine head units:

-Go into Setting/Audio/Time Correction Parameter and Set it to Inches.

-Then go into Setting/Audio/Time Correction and input the numbers from above for each speaker.

The alpine head unit will then automatically calculate and apply the correct time delay (in milliseconds) to each speaker.

Other head unit's:

-Here are the actual numbers in milliseconds:

FL = 0ms (no delay) FR = 1.2ms delay

Driver

RL = 0.6ms delay RR = 2.1ms delay

N.B. You may feel like your sub-woofer lags behind the rest of the system, this is because it is in the rear and sound waves have a longer travel time. If your front speakers beat isn't in sync with your subwoofers thump then you need to add additional time delay equally to all speakers (The front four, not the sub-woofer it's self) start with 1ms then go from there. And finally change sub-woofer phase back and forth and pick the one that sounds best (complete sounding, usually the one that gives more bass.)

3) Adjust Fader

This final step is very important for front sound stage, even more so for a 350z because of its rear speaker locations and facing direction.

Even if you don't have time correction settings, all head unit's come with a Fader.

-Turn the rear speakers on full with the fade control. Listen to the rear speakers, and then slowly turn the fade up in the front speakers just until you can't tell the rear speakers are playing anymore, then ease off a tad. You're probably close to optimum setting when the front staging is such that the rear speakers provide little more than ambiance and space to the sound. You shouldn't be able to clearly localize audio as coming from the rear.

For me on my alpine head unit this is set forward on level 4 (out of 15).

The End.

You should now have a proper front sound stage as if the band is playing on your dash in front of you.

Hope this information helps, let me know your results.

N.B

If you haven't achieved the above then try the following.

- Play with the spatial features if your head unit has one (Front Wide) use the option that sounds best.

- Although measuring is a great starting point, sometimes you need to tweak by ear for the best results, to do this:

• Play a song you a very familiar with (ideally rock genre)
  
• Set Fader and balance to front left then add time delay to front left speaker until this speakers beats are in sync with sub-woofers thump.
  
• Set fader and balance to front middle, add time delay to your front right speaker until you have the desired front sound stage (right should logically have more delay then the left). Closing your eyes as you increase the time delay helps. Centred vocals with instruments spaced out left to right is what you want, as if you are at a concert and the lead singer, kick and snare drum are directly in front of you with the rest of the instruments (guitars, cymbals, hi-hat) spread across the stage in their relative positions.
  
• Set Fader and balance back to centre (default position) then add time delay to the rear speakers until front sound stage from previous step is restored (rear speakers will end up having the most delay, especially rear right).
  

When i had my new sound system installed, i would notice the airbag warning light would come on and stay on if i put my volume really high, maybe the bass from the door speakers was causing this i dont know. After a couple resets using the key method (on youtube) the airbag light hasnt returned since, even if i crank up the volume.