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Tuck

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Everything posted by Tuck

  1. Wipe down as I don't have anything to airbrush it on with, unless I take a mouthful of the colorant and... Yeah they supplied a sealant too. Any advice on applying the colourant and sealant? It's a tough one mate as for me your need to airbrush it on and/or rattle can the sealant. That said your working with what you've got so I'd advise to go thin with your coats and build it up. Resist the temptation to daub it on. Dry off with a hairdryer to speed up your drying time. Once you have sufficient colour coverage don't be tempted to slat on even more just to be sure.......the thicker your coat the more chance there is of future failure/cracking A bit like with detailing.......less is often more. Or more accurately the minimum required to do the job right. Perfect bud, how long should I wait between colourant and sealant? Just over night as some videos claim as long as a week!
  2. People help me and I help the people!
  3. Tuck

    Hats for sale

    GLWTS btw Parello (free bump). Now your cat is the image for this thread 😂 I was hoping people would see the top hats and immediately want one. I'm trying to bring top hats back hahaha
  4. Wipe down as I don't have anything to airbrush it on with, unless I take a mouthful of the colorant and... Yeah they supplied a sealant too. Any advice on applying the colourant and sealant?
  5. I was amazed a how much gunk came off! They are a Matt finish now but need sealant as I can tell they'll mark quicker than white paper seats.
  6. They are sending a new unit out to him, free of charge obviously! Dodgey housing maybe Hodaka? Sent from my potato using duct tape
  7. So I've gone ahead and decided just to dye the seats tan, as its a very close colour to the Alzean and I quite like the old school tan look. I bought a kit and got started. Removed the seats from the car (4 x 14mm bolt in each corner and electrical cable underneath). Got a stiff synthetic scrubbing brush, sponged on the prep liquid and scrubbed, occasionally adding more liquid. Works instantly on the dark creases and you can see all the people goo and sludge coming out. Then a final wipe down to clear off the excess! I also painted the 'Press' button on the seat belts. Giving all the plastic parts a wipe down with Qtechniq C4 and I'll move onto the colourant tomorrow. Sent from my potato using duct tape
  8. Also, PM Clarkmotorsport. They have a set in blue ðŸ‘ðŸ¼
  9. PM Clarkmotorsport. They have one in black.
  10. I'll buy your old one if you find one? OR You could cover the hole with a Nismo gear pattern badge or various other badges.
  11. Tuck

    Hats for sale

    I was expecting top hats and golf bonnets etc.
  12. So a wash between tar removal and the clay? Sent from my potato using duct tape
  13. So how does it smell? Sent from my potato using duct tape
  14. Nope, Iron X won't touch the tar at all. To be honest it won't even touch that much iron in my experience... You'll need something else for the tar - Autosmart Tardis is by far the best sticky stuff romover I've used but due to their new policy of not permitting resellers outside of their own fanchised reps it can be both difficult and expensive to get hold of these days (do NOT buy it from eBay, you have no idea what you're actually getting from there and some people will pass off anything as Autosmart products on eBay!). Pretty much any tar remover is better than nothing. Cheers bud, Any recommendations apart from the Tardis? Sent from my potato using duct tape
  15. As has been said, no need to (or point in) dry(ing) before claying. I'd also replace all the subsequent washes (after the initial one, obviously) with just a thorough rinse. There's no point in using IPA before polishing either, so move that step to after polishing. You'll use the IPA to remove anything left behind by the compounds to give you a true indication of the correction acheived. Also, polish and compound are that same thing, so that's yet another step you don't need to worry about and use of a glaze would depend entirely on your chosen Last Stage Product (LSP) - if waxing, glaze is optional, if using a sealant it's likely to be detrimental, if using a coating then it's a big no-no. Also worth noting about polishing, you need to make sure you're working the polish for long enough - when the polish turns clear and you can't really see it on the paint anymore, that's about long enough - but the best way of checking the actual correction acheived is by wiping the area with diluted IPA and checking it in direct sunlight... but you don't want to polish outside (too high a chance of contaminant ruining everything for you!) so decent lighting is a useful indicator whilst you're going round the car - it's usually worth rolling it back outside once you've done the car if the sun is out to double check the finish. And yes, you will need to seal afterwards, whether that be a wax, sealant or coating depends on a billionty other things but largely comes down to what you're trying to acheive - looks durability, cost, ease of application, speed of application, something new, something old, something blue... no wait, that's something else. With regards to the actual polishing, as previously stated, always start with the least aggressive combination and step up only if you need to. Whilst the paint on Z's is butter soft (Stu, try polishing a BMW, you'll really appreciate how [comparatively] easy the Z is to polish ), the polish will still need to be worked properly to be effective, this will likely take a 4-5 passes and a good couple of minutes per section. Polished Bliss give great advice by the way. My full process would be; Wash. Rinse. Iron X. Rinse. De-tar. Rinse. Clay. Rinse. Optional paint clenser. Polish (compound). IPA wipedown. What follows after this will be determined by the LSP. I think that's covered everything. That's helped me no end buddy, cleared a lot of that up for me. Will the Iron-X not remove the tar? Or just brake down the iron Cheers Sent from my potato using duct tape
  16. I'm not selling the badge, the lad can have it as it'll just end up in the bin! Sent from my potato using duct tape Thanks Tuck, very happy to take it off your hands if it's just going spare? Sending you a PM. Okay pal Sent from my potato using duct tape
  17. And if course I'll update with some pictures once its done, if theres a clear day Sent from my potato using duct tape
  18. Hahaha, well I'm looking forward to the advice! Sent from my potato using duct tape
  19. Saved me about an hour ahahah, cheers pal! Sent from my potato using duct tape
  20. So about paint prep, so far I've been led to believe; •Wash (G3 body prep) •Iron X •Wash •Dry •Clay •Wash •Dry •IPA (50/50 water) Anything else? Then compound, polish, glaze... Does this require a sealant too? Sent from my potato using duct tape
  21. Silly question, how do you know if has worked? Haha, just clear the remaining product off and shine a light to it? well we have a couple of clear days... a year hahaha Sent from my potato using duct tape Find a small place on the car with some defects, but out the way and test there (rear passenger side is miles away from the driver's door ). A narrow beam light is a great way of finding defects, re-checking the area and then deciding if you need to adjust your combination of compound and pad. Go easy to start with, get it right and you should be ok. I know the Zed's paint is supposed to be soft, but it took me a good while to shift a few scratches with a DA and a menzerna soft paint kit. If the car's new, be really careful to check for any unknown repairs that might have been done by PO. Okay like a test section, got ya. I'd probably do the upper bonnet (away from stone chips) as if i mess it up thats most in need of a respray. Cheers bud. Sent from my potato using duct tape
  22. I have heard of these space age coatings but are they not a bit expensive? Sent from my potato using duct tape
  23. Yeah I wanted to avoid the detailing forums as they are extremely anal, refuse to clean my car with a cotton bud! I was looking for a rough guide for people that like to drive the cars, not just clean them! I'll still have a look though, cheers bud Sent from my potato using duct tape
  24. Silly question, how do you know if has worked? Haha, just clear the remaining product off and shine a light to it? well we have a couple of clear days... a year hahaha Sent from my potato using duct tape
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