lance350

strangely enough when i changed my battery the Nissan dealership gave me the best price. the old one lasted 12 years so they cant be that bad.

Finally fixed my window washer jets after reading on another thread about the one way valve thing getting blocked.

Seems very premature, even for a cheap bearing. was the axle nut torqued up properly?

honestly i would just wait till you find a decent e36. The e46 is heavier, has a lot more problems with rust and the 25 and 28 lumps aint as strong as the m50. I find the best place to look for e36s is gumtree or autotrader you see the odd one put up that has been owned by an old boy for the last 20 years, has full service history and is a decent price.

325 is defiantly the car to go for its an iron block and practically indestructible The gearbox are the same. the lsds are next to useless by now unless they have been rebuilt but for drifting your better off sticking either a welded 325 diff or you can use a 320 diff for a higher ratio but you will need to change drive shafts and half the prop. The biggest problem with these cars now will be rust and worn suspension/bushes. You can replace the suspension very cheaply with ebay coilovers they are very stiff buy perfectly ok for skids. The bushes are a pain in the arse but will definitely be shot by now. Replacing rear subrame and trailing arm bushes made such a difference on my e36. As for rust expect all the usual places to be bubbling by now all arches, boot lid, bonnet but again if its a drift car this really wont matter just make sure you have a good look under the car and check for excess rust where the sub frame is attached. Other than that dont worry about it too much parts are cheap so if anything breaks it can be easily replaced. Just go out, do some skids and have some fun!!!

That's the one. great film!

Perfect. Thanks Mate

haha was it a yellow Range Rover by any chance?

sorry to hijack but does anyone has a link for the standard yellow inertia bulbs? I only have one working at the moment and it bugs the hell out of me

Anyone know if you need a working rear washing jet for MOT? Mine has stopped working and I cant hear the pump go when I try use it.

No worries mate

I would get your battery checked first. The alarm used to go off all the time on my track car if i hadn't run it in a while and the battery went low. Plus the cold really affects older battery's this is probably why it is going off on cold nights.

I don't think you need to buy a fancy resistor kit you should be able to use a normal 2.2ohm resistor (you might want to double check that) its a really straight forward process just make sure you disconnect the battery and make sure to drain all the power. I'm sure there will be guide on Google.

100% agree FWD is the sensible choice for snow but there is nothing more fun the a e36 320 with a welding diff in the snow as long as its no too hilly where you live. They have been on the up for a while now a friend of mine has almost double his money on an m3 he brought a couple of years ago.

Im struggling to find anything rwd for cheap. e36s used to be a good shout but they have shot up recently

I have been looking at saabs on ebay for the winter months they seem crazy cheap 2006 models going for around 1300

Ha I just love the noise it makes though. (the 350 not so much the Polo)

ha I'm exactly the same been driving the 1.0l polo to work every day this week. On the upside I have saved about £20 on fuel

I usually use parel2go for the best prices. For reliability they can all be a bit hit and miss I find, it depends how the driver is feeling on the day. As for price I reckon between £20 and £30

Good buy I got one of these from ebay last year it was incredibly cheap and works well.

The 350z is no worse than any other RWD semi powerful in the snow/ice TBF you just have to go very easy on the loud pedal. saying that it still catches me out at least once every year

I encountered my first patch of ice on my commute to work today. I have 15 min duel carriage way commute followed by 10 minutes of country lane. The duel carriage way was fine but as soon as I hit my first country bend the back end swung out on me , luckily due to my driving talent (the TC coming on) and the coffee I had before work I just about managed to catch it. it shook me up though. I think I am going to be it bit more careful for the next couple of months.

Thanks mate, its been 100+ miles now and the light has stayed off. Now I just need a new set of rear tyres and hopefully it will fly through he MOT for a forth year in a row

Thanks mate, that's what I was hoping to hear

I drive a 2004 DE with 85k on the clock. A couple of days ago my EML came on so I read the code and go the P1167 result. I cleared the code and the light hasn't come on again (after about 75 miles). My MOT is coming up next month and I was wondering if I should just replace the sensors for peace of mind of if something like a drop in air temp or going through a puddle could of set off the light? Thanks