thedon

++ Now Sold ++ GT Pack, Gunmetal grey, RAYS alloys. Personalised plate included. - Plenum spacer - Berks HFCs - Cobra cat-back exhaust with resonated back box - Uprev mapping + - Pioneer X2600BT 6.1" touch screen multimedia unit Will be sold with 12 months MOT (being MOT'd on 12 Oct 2017). All 3 keys present. Mechanically excellent - I’ve had no problems in 4 years of ownership other than to fix the common issue with rocker cover grommets & usual wear and tear below. Very clean inside - wear to the gear knob and scratches on the driver’s door arm rest. Bodywork is very good - no dents though several small chips around the front. Here’s what’s been done to the car in my ownership (all new branded parts): • Rear brake pads – Oct 18 • All fluids - Mar 17 • Clutch slave cylinder - Aug 16 • Battery - Jan 16 • Front washer pump - Aug 15 • A/C & Alt belts - Aug 15 • Pioneer head unit + steering wheel controls - Jul 15 • Front disks & pads (DBA disks & Hawk ceramic pads) - Jun 15 • Spark plugs - Mar 15 • O2 sensors - Mar 15 • Cobra Y pipe - Feb 15 • Avon ZZ5 rear tyres - Dec 14 • Driver’s window motor - Aug 14 • Boot struts - Nov 13 • Also new flywheel and Exedy clutch at 83k miles - Dec 11. I’ve always run it on super unleaded. Rarely used for short journeys and never thrashed or tracked. Runs superbly, pulls smoothly in every gear and sounds amazing. All gear changes smooth. Bad points: • Minor paint chips around the front plus scuffs to the front lip. • Small kerb rash on the alloys. • Wear to the gear knob and driver's seat bolster, and minor scratches to seats. • Common fuel gauge issue - empty light when still 1/2 full. Asking £4,500. Car in Woodbridge, Suffolk. Howard NUMBER REMOVED

Now sold

Thanks mate, PM sent

Great timing, Ewen! I finally got round to replacing the slave I bought a couple of months back, but the pedal still sticks occasionally on return. What's this Nissan procedure you mention? Can you send it to me? Cheers, Howard

You're teasing me... why only sometimes?

Thanks, Rich. Do spacers stop the error codes triggering the EML?

Thanks Alex, but Horsham obviously didn't. It was mapped before my time, hence wondering how much it would likely cost to simply switch them off now. Would you suggest spacers as a cheaper option?

Cheers - what do they do? send no signal at all?

I regularly get P1146/7 error codes because I have HFCs. The car has already been Uprev mapped - how much just to switch off the O2 sensors? Also anyone know somewhere that can do this near Suffolk? Thanks.

Question 4 may not be relevant to connecting it all together, but it is relevant if you want to check you have a working alternator... Using an electrical tester (the sort you can buy for a tenner from Maplin) place the red and black probes on the clamps to your battery. With the engine not running you will see a little over 12V. With the engine running (i.e. with the alternator providing power) you should see between 14.2V and 14.7V (mine shows 14.5V and 14.4V under load with the lights, heated window etc. on).

Unlikely all of them I'd say. P1274 (drivers side) and P1284 (passenger side) relate to the Air Fuel Ratio sensors forward of the cats. I can understand the HO2 sensors downstream being affected by the cats if they were damaged... Hopefully someone will be along shortly with practical advice about testing before you shell out £300 on replacing them all.

Hi, I've had these, and they all relate to the sensors before (1274,1284) and after (0138, 0154) the cats. Have you got high-flow, or no, cats? I cured most of them by replacing the sensors but that is very expensive and unnecessary if you have HFCs or removed them altogether, in which case you need an engine map to ignore them. What age of car and mods do you have?

Another vote for these and Clark Motorsport. Give Ewen a shout

Not in the market at the mo, but coolant and belts too, I'd suggest...

A big thumbs up for Halfords - the old battery (a HCB005) had a 4 year warranty and was 3 years and 9 months old. They tested it and replaced it without a quibble. Even fitted it for me. Result

Thanks guys - off to get a new battery today. Fingers crossed that sorts it out. (and will tighten the belt too)

I've tested across the battery with the engine running: 14.5V at idle (1,200 RPM) which drops to 14.4V on load (lights, wipers, rear heated screen) - both within the 14.2 - 14.7V ideal range I think. Does that suggest a good alternator? One observation: the positive lead does grip the battery terminal tightly, and can't be tightened any more. Poor contact (and/or belt tension less than optimal, as you say, Tricky-Dicky). But would really like to know if the voltage range when running, means the alternator itself is still OK - that's an expensive fix.

Thanks, when you say 'from the alternator to the battery' where do I test: still the battery terminals, somewhere on the alternator output/case?

Thanks for the replies. I can't start the car, but the battery voltage was 11.05V before I started charging. The charger light went from red (uncharged) to green (supposedly charged) in 5 minutes. I left it charging for 30 mins and the voltage is now 12.76V. Does that suggest a knackered battery? As you say, davey, the alternator may have caused the battery to fail, although if the battery was faulty already would that make the alternator work harder, possibly causing the belt sqeal? May be clutching at straws here... No, there wasn't any frost this morning. Coll but not cold (~5C)

Only 5 months old, changed in August.

I've had a squeal from a belt occasionally for a month or so, sometimes immediately after start, sometimes 5 mins later, and only lasting a few seconds. This morning the car wouldn't crank over enough to start. So my first suspect is the alternator, given the sqealing belt, but the battery is 3 years old so could be past its best. Voltage on the dash has always been good though. Are there any tests to tell whether I need a new battery or alternator? Thanks, Howard

Sold now, can a mod please close this thread.

Clearing out the garage, so selling 4 alloys without tyres. They're very sound with no cracks and they hold tyre pressure well, but cosmetically they're very tired - bubbling, scuffs aplenty - see photos. Suitable for refurb or winter tyres. £75 collected from Ipswich/Woodbridge in Suffolk.

Timing issue (CPS) caused by shock to an older, stretched timing chain?? May be well off, but similar happened to my daughter's car when she was learning to drive and not very mechanically sympathetic.

Thanks Alex - I assume to turn off the sensors is a remap (the car had an uprev, so presume I still have the license for a return visit)? Cheers, Howard