thedon

Moderators, can you please lock this thread as this is now sold.

Hi, It sure is. I'll PM you payment details. Cheers, Howard

I've replaced my Bose head unit so no longer need the BT adaptor. Perfect working condition, Nissan branded. £50 delivered. NOW SOLD. Cheers, Howard

Not selling the cubby door are you?

I had ZZ3s too but got a cut in a rear and couldn't buy another for love nor money (or at least not in 245 width), so I had to get a set of ZZ5s. Good grip and progressive, although I've not pushed them anywhere near their limit

Avon ZZ5s 'cos you get lots of little 'Z's around the edge of the tyre (and we all know that bling is the most important factor in choosing a tyre (though joking aside I have them and like them)

Only at certain revs (mine was 2700-3000)? Turned out to be a rusted joint on the Y-pipe, cracked by the joints being unsupported.

Great service from Ewen - he recommended disks and pads and held onto them until pay day as stock was getting low. Quick delivery - 9.30am following day (the Fedex guy was great too, going above and beyond, although that's another appreciation thread) Many thanks

Ahem. It only does it when I have my foot on the brake, so it looks like a brake issue. Tried it with and without my foot on the clutch. In my defense it felt like a drive-train judder. That, and I'm a tit Is a slight brake judder likely to be worn discs? I've remember now that was an MOT advisory a couple of months ago, but I ignored it at the time because it felt fine, and money was a bit tight.

Hi Alex, good question... not that I've noticed but I will check and report back

I've searched for this symptom but can only see juddering under acceleration, but in my case I feel a small judder for about a second when I dip the clutch as I approach a junction with my right foot on the brake, i.e. no engine load at all. Judder under load would likely be the flywheel, but under no load - any ideas? Thanks,

Interesting...my MPG has gone from 18 to 19 (shorter journeys than you I guess) which I didn't consider too much, but it's the same percentage gain as you. The car is running smoother, but I put that down to cleaning the plenum and the plenum side of the throttle plate. Whatever, I'm happy

Well, all back together again and amazingly the car still works Once I'd got the right cover past the tight bracket it all went back together again with no dramas. Oil pressure good and it drives well. Will check for any oil drips in the morning but praying there are none - I really don't fancy stripping it back down again just yet. I've attached a picture that shows how not to let the waste plastic build up (it's a pig to flush it all out again). For anyone about to attempt the job you can also see the ring of plastic that you drill out from the baffle, letting you pry up the existing grommet. Good luck!

Percussive maintenance, nice

Also, important that the door is closed when you do the reset pressing the motor button. Caught me out, that one...

Shot in the dark, but I had a similar issue with the drivers window, and it was because I hadn't shut the door when I did the motor reset (pressing the button on the motor itself as you move the window up then down (from memory - check the actual reset procedure). Otherwise it could be a faulty motor (I had one of those too). Good luck.

Been away this week so I'm going to start reassembly tomorrow: can I just ask whether I need to bleed the coolant circuit to remove air in the pipes?

Well I got both rocker covers off (the bracket near cyl 5 was a right pain in the arse) and repaired all 6 grommets. A couple of observations: a 51mm hole saw takes one of the grommet holes very very close to the edge of the surrounding plastic, leaving a wafer thin edge. Given that there is one or two mm space around the plastic guide tool inside the hole saw, perhaps a 50mm saw would be better than 51mm. It's amazing how the chaff from the drilled-out plastic gets into nooks and crannies in the cam cover (which of course has the potential to later get into the oil). I recommend having a vacuum cleaner alongside the drill to capture the waste before it runs off and hides. Finally, because of the fine edge above, I put RTV on the underside of the grommet, like the z33 garage guy does in his video. In hindsight though this is going to be in direct contact with hot oil?? (worried now - is that going to be a problem with the RTV breaking off and getting into the oil/engine? (edited to correct 52mm to 51mm)

Jeez - I'm on day 2 and still haven't got the first rocker cover off yet! (Mind you I only have an hour or so between getting home and it getting dark but never mind, making progress...) One thing I can report is how to get the infamous green plug off : you have to push on the top end of the green slider but it's in the opposite direction to pulling the plug off, i.e. you push the green slider into the plug as you pull it away. On the video he says push it in the same direction. Got to say: whoever invented the various connectors is a f*&%ing sadist PS. Re the hole saw arbor, either buy the arbor from the same eBay seller in the link above, or this one at your local ToolStation (part no. 50147, £4.29) - the pilot drill can be removed.

much appreciated

No worries - I will pop down to B&Q to peruse their mandrel selection

I bought the same hole saw but my arbor/mandrel is the wrong size. Did you buy the one from the same eBay seller because the one in his picture has a couple of protuberances that look like they will stop the screw reaching the hole saw? It doesn't look like the arbor in the R&D video above...

Great, many thanks

I'm going to paint my plenum with VHT crinkle paint when I take it off to repair the cam covers. What sort of primer do I need? Etch? Normal? High temperature? Thanks, and apologies if this is a repost - I've searched and found several threads but no definitive answer.

Fair enough Thanks for the clarification, just need to find some brave pills now!