Ortega_9

Also just started putting a few fuel bits on the spare engine and piecing together my own fuel return system. i'll make my own return fitting for the svievel jets, where the Stock fpr now sits, and run a paralell setup with the rails and new fpr

I'm looking to up the power in my tt350z so looking into building a new powerplant. Have any of you, with build vq's, had the rotation assembly balanced? i'm planning on having parts weighed out and balanced that Way. I have done this a few times, and having no issues what so ever. But having trouble finding information on the necessety of having the entire rotating assembly balanced together? My reason for asking is if you buy a build short/long block that States it's been balanced, what does that include? they can't really balance it without your flywheel/clutch etc.? i have had my block honed, and my heads decked, and that is about the machining I normally do before building. Any input other than what the interweb claims to be the truth.?

And done with the adjustable arms in the rear. It will be set to zero camber and the slightest dash of toe in at squat when under load. That will give me all the bite possible. well thats the plan. I always get surprised when i zero out camber on a car about how far out the tyres Stick, so atleast it will go as close to zero as the arches and tyres allow.

Right, I'll just go ahead and keep the thread gooing instead of doing separate threads for all the things I'll be waisting my time and money on this winter. just got the new adjustable rear camber and toe arm in and opened. Abit dissapointed, almost all threads are rustet and there is rust in piles in all arms when disasembled. So doing some cleaning and assembling everything with som High temp anti seize paste to be able to crack the bolts apart later. Anyway. Pretty beefy arms as i remember from my good old drift days, so thats a good upgrade for some more power aswell. Old arms off, and using them as a guide lenght-wise, so I'll be able to drive it to the alaingment shop without having to do too much adjusting.

And the car is back in the garage up on jackstands and done for this season. The list of things i want to look into has been made, and the wheels has already come of for the post season inspection. So far it looks like the only "problem" with running twin turbo for the last 4000km has been the lack of Grip and the price of gas.

Pm sent.

:-)

Anyone Got one laying around?

Hi, i can't Seem to find anything on this. i'm trying to fit the smallest possible wheel size to the rear to accomidate drag Slicks, but i can't Seem to find a clearence template for the rear Stock 2-pot brembos. i have seen some turning to Rx7 fd Stock 16" wheels, but i need a template to check some wider wheels for fitment. any help is much apriciated.

Hi, need a pair of 370z space saver sparewheels alloy, not steel donuts.

And just a small Update. Everything running very Well! Now almost 3000km on the build. And 2 streetrace events where nothing have been held back.... Having some serious Grip issues but still running 12's om the 1/4 mile and low 8's on the 1/8mile. I hope i Can cut into the 7's with some less rear camber and some Sticky tyres Car is amazing and drives awesome. not really that laggy, even with the Big 3076's on there. And when the build engine goes in, and boost goes up, I'll see if it works with the final setup or i need to downsize abit with the turbos.

Here's a small recap from my first outing in the 350z tt. i learned that a 500 hp 350z is almost the slowest car in Germany

I actually found them on ebay.

Thanks. And this has been a study in unessecery and difficult solutions, so your looking at something around the 10k mark... just for parts in total...

Ahh.. crap. dick picks then? Do you have the flowtest charts for the Injectors?

Would you consider a Trade?

And then a pair of 200 cell stainless magnaflow race cats landed... theese are rated for 475ish bhp pr unit. I Would normally have chosen a bigger dimension, but having one pr. Bank on a V6 this will be enough for everything i will ever ask of. i'm kinda feed up redooing the exhaust for the 3. Time. But hopefully i'm gonna learn something and not make the same mistakes again. I Think i'm a bit bias by building track cars and never having build a full street exhaust from schratch.... as much as i love the Sound and noise on track, i hate it on a dayli.... Anyways, I hope this will solve the noise issue.

No worries. thanks anyway.

Thanks for the replys. ill see if scobie finds his.

And back in the stable. really happy with the work. it's pretty hard making a new piece for the fender Line from scratch, but looks like it's about right. now i need to put her back together, and hopefully enjoy a few month of summer.

Hi, had to remove my antenne for a respray. And it had siezed pretty god, so need a new antenna base with nut.

Price reduced on the lot! 500£ for all posted.

And in the booth, with the clear coat done.

£1000+ is probally in the steep end, but if it gets the problem solved for good, i Would consider. i'm at about £500 so far. With metal and paint. Both sides. And i'm dooing most of the work myself.

True. it'S the worst part of having a +10year old motor. but better get it done first than last. mines ready for filler. There is a little High spot on the arch Line that needs to be corrected, Otherwise it's into paint tomorrow and back to the garage!