speedwell

Interesting comments on this subject that's always good for debate... My thoughts: Always give it your best shot at selling privately first,and expect it to take weeks not days. If you do sell privately then consider also buying privately to save even more. If this fails try the dealers,but do the research on Autotrader first so your price expectations are realistic. Find a good example of the car you want,what's the point of a good p/ex for your car against something sub standard. Be friendly and polite with dealers,but if they are aloof,arrogant or disinterested don't argue,just walk away. Franchised dealers usually have the best cars to sell,but one look at their glass palace showrooms will tell you they have high overheads so need high profit margins...but don't ignore them,if you are lucky in catching them at the right time you may still get a reasonable deal. ...finally,if you still feel uncomfortable that you're losing too much,just keep the car,time will even out the depreciation on every vehicle

It would help to state the SIZE of the tyre,please.

Our car...you can feel the glass rub on the hood when you open the door. It seems to me the design is wrong. When you go to open the door the window drops when you pull the handle but there is a slight delay and the "drop" actually happens AFTER the door has opened past the hood and rubbed on it. Closing the door is fine because the window is already dropped. If the window was to drop when you pressed the remote to unlock,or you could make it drop when by pressing the door button before you went to pull open the door this might solve the issue.

Any way of confirming whether ARB's are definitely thicker than earlier ones?...what diameter are they?

Problem solved...bought some genuine Nissan "refills",i.e. just the rubber bits. These slotted in without too much bother and only cost about £12.

I thought for a minute you weren't going to have them painted...which is not a good look

There must be many in London on high housing benefits who don't work,have never worked,and don't want to work. So make them move to another part of the country where housing costs are cheaper. The inertia of some people in this country appalls me...in the US the attitude of anybody with anything about them is,if they lose their job,they will go and get another anywhere...the big box trailer gets hired and hitched to the pick-up and off they go a thousand miles to another State. Anyway, the example about someone with 4 kids and a 350z was ridiculous...obviously you stop at 2 kids so you can afford a 370z...

Good result indeed...but just one question,isn't the bonnet alloy rather than steel,so the problem was alloy corrosion not rust?

Are they exactly the same as the original? I've been speaking to one of the biggest internet suppliers,Wiperblades.co.uk,370z was not listed so I sent them pics. The arm has a standard hook fixing but the blades have the fixing bracket on the side rather than the normal top position,so they couldn't help. A top fixing will have the blades sitting on the screen in a different position...which perhaps doesn't really matter? I'm guessing the Champion blades referred to have a top fixing?

Thanks for the links to the pics...still not sure if they look quite as good as the oem ones on a 350 tbh.

Anyone got any pics of them fitted to a 370?The nissan accessory pics are so small they don't give me any idea of whether they look "right" on the car or not...

Yes,they are aero ("flat") style and the fitting point differs from those generally on that sort. One of the specialist wiper suppliers state that they have just added the 370z fitment to their range so I'll give them a call.

...for a 370z roadster.The usual internet sites don't list them and Nissan want £68 for the pair,which seems rather over the top.Any ideas?

Rubbish. I can overtake perfectly well in my diesel truck that weighs over 2.5tons and has a powerband you can thread through the eye of a needle it's that narrow. It's all about forward planning and knowing your vehicle. It's lazier overtaking in the Zed, granted, but no more easier than in an S2K. If it's "lazier" then it's also more "effortless",which is what I said.How is that rubbish? Less effort means easier progress which IMHO means safer progress for the average driver.So you can always forward plan to be in exactly the right gear on a twisty,dark road that you don't know?If so you must be a better driver than most. Let's try another adjective which might be more relevant to the OP's queries. "A 350z is a BETTER car for public road overtaking than a S2000."

Rubbish. I can overtake perfectly well in my diesel truck that weighs over 2.5tons and has a powerband you can thread through the eye of a needle it's that narrow. It's all about forward planning and knowing your vehicle. It's lazier overtaking in the Zed, granted, but no more easier than in an S2K. If it's "lazier" then it's also more "effortless",which is what I said.How is that rubbish? Less effort means easier progress which IMHO means safer progress for the average driver.So you can always forward plan to be in exactly the right gear on a twisty,dark road that you don't know?If so you must be a better driver than most. Let's try another adjective which might be more relevant to the OP's queries. "A 350z is a BETTER car for public road overtaking than a S2000."

really? i never had a problem, i suppose you just think further ahead with your driving like you do with advanced driving courses so you are in the right gear as you need it with the revs where you want them. agreed though that the Zed is a far lazier driving style. you can rely on the more instant torque with out needing to much input. its like the difference between an auto and a manual both do the same job, but in completely different manners, and one requires more input from the driver than the other. neither one is better as it depends on what conditions you use it in to where its strengths lie. both cars require completely different driving styles to get the best out of them. if you used a zed technique of driving in the S2K it would feel rubbish. if you drove the zed like the S2k the car wouldn't thank you for it. Yes,really....because I used the word "effortless".I've had two Honda V-tec cars and they have their good points but I doubt if I'll have another.Because you've got such a long torque spread with the Zed this makes for a bigger safety margin in any overtake.But, with an XKR,you know that don't you?

really? i never had a problem, i suppose you just think further ahead with your driving like you do with advanced driving courses so you are in the right gear as you need it with the revs where you want them. agreed though that the Zed is a far lazier driving style. you can rely on the more instant torque with out needing to much input. its like the difference between an auto and a manual both do the same job, but in completely different manners, and one requires more input from the driver than the other. neither one is better as it depends on what conditions you use it in to where its strengths lie. both cars require completely different driving styles to get the best out of them. if you used a zed technique of driving in the S2K it would feel rubbish. if you drove the zed like the S2k the car wouldn't thank you for it. Yes,really....because I used the word "effortless".I've had two Honda V-tec cars and they have their good points but I doubt if I'll have another.Because you've got such a long torque spread with the Zed this makes for a bigger safety margin in any overtake.But, with an XKR,you know that don't you?

All I want to say is that if you like to make effortless progress on our crowded roads I wouldn't consider an S2000...by the time you've got it to the 6k v-tec point the overtaking opportunity has probably gone.

All I want to say is that if you like to make effortless progress on our crowded roads I wouldn't consider an S2000...by the time you've got it to the 6k v-tec point the overtaking opportunity has probably gone.

Is it possible to re-use these?...if not, then best to fit after you've had new tyres because they would need to come off for tyre fitting,unless I'm much mistaken.

It's said there are problems with bank drafts because they could be forged,but you would think the way around it would be to give the seller the draft and invite him to phone your bank to verify it...needs to be bank opening hours of course. Another method...I sold a car a few years ago and the purchaser had pre-arranged that we went together to the counter of the branch of his bank in my town and they gave him a draft for me which I therefore knew was genuine.

An alternative is to go to your nearest automotive paint factor (not Halfords!).They should be able to look at your wheels and supply you with the (near) matching shade of silver because it's probable they will be supplying the local pro wheel refurb guys. Some car manufactures,e.g.Audi,actually have a paint code for silver used for their wheels,in which case the paint factor can mix you some to give an exact match. So,is there a paintcode for the Nissan wheel silver?...this is not something easy to discover,it's only the body paint code that's on the VIN plate.

The round alloy one looks good and the red lettering would work with my red 350.Looks like it would shorten the gearchange too (generally good,but 1 to 2 when cold will be worse)...but very icy to the touch at this time of year.

A convertible in Texas in May?...a hot day will burn you up,all the locals will have their tops up in the heat of the day. I wouldn't choose a convertible for this tbh,and,as stated, you've got space problems in a Mustang with four people.

Don't think it's the clutch or you would have difficulty with all gears. In cold weather a lot of cars are sticky into second gear for a few times until the oil warms and thins a bit. Also,when going from first to second with a cold box, your technique should be to pause slightly in neutral before you push it into second. I would first try a gearbox oil change with,possibly,some molyslip added.