ian.lewkowicz

Nope, there were a few forums where people had apparently tried the Always Ground thing and it hadn't worked. Did sound American so maybe different units over there or sommat?

Yeah, to be honest I'm not too fussed about watching DVD's etc, especially when I'm driving (I'm not that stupid - most of the time) I was just thinking about passengers, not bothering to find the brake switch, and also I'd heard it also does some things with the bluetooth kit, so without knowing what it knocks off I wanted to just bypass it. Just weird that I'd heard from a number of sources (and also seen youtube videos) about creating a relay when it's not needed :s

Cheers for the info Ian

Just so that I know as I'll be trying to sell a few things on here soon. Are you allowed to list them as or nearest offer or do they have to be a set price? If you are allowed ONO prices then how does that get policed? Is it down to the seller when they accept the closest offer to their listed price? EDIT: Forgot to mention. I think the post limit on the For Sale section would be better increased. The For Sale section afterall is not a free sale area, it's meant to be for members to list their items. This would however (most likely) increase the amount of spam around the forum. One thing I have seen on other forums as well is some areas not counting towards post counts. Like the Joke room etc. As it's a common place where people who are only trying to get their post count up will head to try and spam without getting caught

Tested this tonight and your right guys so a big thanks to you all for letting me know before I brought the gear to make the relay up

Is anyone running the K1 with the bungs in permanently?

I thought the idea of the cap was that it get's charged by the alternator and as such the alternator doesn't need to be able to provide the power instantly to re-charge the powercap, it just needs to be able to charge it and the powercap takes the hit basically and then slowly recharges. Obviously if this is the case it's only useful for odd big bass beats, not constant otherwise the powercap will just be dead and the problem will be passed back down the chain again

My mate has advised ABP too, he has a lot of his work done there on his Civic Type R and says they really know their stuff

Having now spoke to the member who wrote that thread on here he has confirmed that the Black and White insulated cable go to ground and the Blue and White insulated cable go to the remote wire

Hi Can anyone recommend an Exhaust fitter in Stoke-on-Trent? I have recently brought myself a JapSpeed K1 system and am looking at getting it fitted this week (hopefully) but not sure of the best place to take it with all the comments of the fitment of them sometimes being a bit off. Any recommendations? How much (roughly) should I be expecting to have to pay? Thanks for any help

I have been advised to only not leave the bungs in, is this correct? Or can they be left in without too much consequence?

Ah rite that's weird as I've read in a few places that you need to have a relay as it can't be permanently grounded. So you either need a Relay for an automated delay or a toggle switch to fool the head unit into thinking that the hand brake had been taken off and then re-applied? Will try it and see what happens

The wire's i'm talking about are coming from the white block that go between the white block and the black ISO connector. You can just about see them in this stock image from the sexton website (Wire G and H) There is a thread about the wiring on this forum here but it states that the Bluet and white wire go to wire J on the ISO loom (and I can't see a wire J on the pics) and that the black and wire wire goes to ground? Dunno if this is correct?

Ok, wondering if someone can shed some light on something for me, I've been installing my InCarTec lead today and I've come toa bit of a stumbling block, I've sorted my new Earth, got the 3 wires linked together, soldered and heatshrunk. But out of the white block there's 2 wires that have no plug on them (with black and white, blue and white insulation) any ideas what they are for?

Hi Was wondering if anyone has done the relay bypass for the Pioneer DVD's themselves? Just wondering as I wanna know which type of relay is needed? Thanks

Cheers for that bud, I thought it would be but didn't wanna risk throwing sommat out if it needed to only be turned on with all gauges plugged in etc. Thanks again

Ok, I am doing my head unit install and was wondering if anyone could tell me. Am I ok to start the car without the gauge pods plugged in? Incase you don't know what I'm talking about it's this connector:

I was being stupid (as I assumed) I thought it tilted differently than it does so it doesn't actually need to be clearing where I thought it did. Will be trying my utmost to get it done in time bud

fakeindian: Yeah I've cut the centre bar out but it doesn't seem to fit over enough, will take a look and see if i'm being too paranoid about the amount it tilts etc yokomo: Yeah I've got the 2 metal clamps attached to the new head unit. Gonna have to do a trial of how far the front face tilts when it's giving access to the cd/dvd tray as that's the bit i'm worrying about

I got the double din one from Sextons

How have you secured the stereo to the fascia and the fascia to the bulk head?

Yeah it comes out for CD/DVD access with the hinges on the bottom as far as I remember. I had thought I'll have to just grind the trim a bit, bit of a bugger that it can't fit in the cage though as it means i've gotta take the dash off each time I wanna get to the back, lol

I have done a search and nothing's showing up. I know a few people have the AVH-P4100DVD but dunno whether anyone has the 4200 yet

Just got home and had noticed an Azure 350z Couple JDM on my way out of the Circus Casino in Hanley tonight. Just wondered if it was anyone on here?

Thanks Scott, got my B Pillars today, will try and get them fitted soon and get some pics up, currently tackling a stereo install though, lol