Demolition49

1. glrnet

2. spursmaddave

3. Vik54

4. S14KW

5. LRFAN

6. Stew

7. DawnC / TT350z

8. Jenni

9. zmanalex

10. Wasso

11.M13KYF

12.Neo

13. Ricer Bloke from the U.S.A

14.CMCK13

15. NeilMH

16. SteveM

17. Buckley

18. Ruddles

19. Clarkie34

20. Daryl

21. RisingPower

22. 5tu

23. UNABASHED

24. Bartman

25. gort

26. introspect

27. richt

28. Jed

29. Bsled

30. St3ven1

31. Danny 350Z

32. Fodder

33. Demolition49

Good luck, i hate kwik fit!

Had my tracking done on my old car... bushes were knackered but they couldnt spot that and i had to get it tracked 4 times(because i had a go at them) and go to another mechanic before he told me, why are those idiots trying to track knacered bushes... anyway he did it for me and heypresto not a prob.

Kwik fit is run by 16 y/o apprentices who dont know diddily squat!

Have you tried wonderwheels, its corrosive and wouldn't use it ordinarily but if it doesn't shift the muck then nothing will.

R

Thanks for the advice, i have heard bad stuff about it, but ill talk to envy and see what they say first, if no luck wonder wheels it is then!

if they are sqweeking when not breaking its possible your claipers arent releasing fully.

are the wheels hot when you park up?

do you mean the discs? the dics are v hot as for the wheels i dont think so but next time i drive her ill be sure to check! if the calipers arnt releasing fully what's the solution? By the way i get a very strange sqeaking/squarking somtimes that sounds like its somthing more than just brake squeal, cant explain it!

dont shift to first unless you are completely stationary, the synchros just dont like it in the zed at and kind of speed. besides there is really no need to be in first other than moving off anyway, its a torquey enough engine to use 2nd everywhere.

 

the only way to smoothly shift down to first if you really really wanted to would be to double clutch. clutch down, take out of gear, clutch up, blip throttle to spin up engine AND gearbox to correct rpm, clutch down, select gear, clutch up. makes an exceptionally smooth downshift when done correclty, it removes that lurch where the transmission plays catch up with the wheels and engine. also and most importantly it saves your synchro from taking the heat doing this.

 

avoid block shifting, this takes its toll on synchros too. ideally shift through the box like a sequential shifter does.

 

don't lean on the gear stick to force a gear in, you are basically leaning on the synchro ring forcing it to match the speeds quicker than it is able. all this does is heat it up and burn it out. If it doesn't feel like its going to go in, you are selecting the wrong gear for the job or your revs arent matched correctly. on the same principle dont hover on the edge of a gear just before it goes in, you might be able to hear a whine at this point, that's the synchros, and you're going to break them.

 

Get some good oil in the gearbox too, that can make a difference in the wear, also changing it can flush out swarf etc.

 

hope that helps

Thanks husky for the advice, i get what you mean with the first gear, i always blip when down shifting though, its like second nature now the only problem is when i use engine braking im scared people behind will go flying in to me as almost 99% of the time people are always too close!

please do post up some pics of the new Z

Are the Z's the track related pads? Most if not all track related pads will squeal badly on the road because you are simply not getting them hot enough.

 

With DS2500, you need to break them in properly (like proper cooking/smoking hot) to get good transfer of pad material to the disc. This will stop the squealing. However, due to the way that the pads work, this material will wear off over time if you dont get the discs hot periodically. They use 2 ways to stop the car, one is the resin which is transfered to the discs. The other is mechanical, metal filings, in the pads dig into the surface. This will wear off the resin if you do not get the discs and pads hot enough frequently enough and you will get squealing. If you bed them in again, you will get rid of it as you have a coating of the resin on there again. Hope that makes sense

Ive gone down the motorway at 70ish various times giving them extreme braking late at night in fustration, the more i use them, the louder they get, the hotter the brakes are the louder the squeal, and once hot enough... this happens... i just took this video 30 mins ago.

And i bed these pads in using Zmanalex's braking in guide

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JFCUzfdZEA

Plus... I never used to have a lip on my dics and after just getting in and checking the dics i have noticed they have a lip on them now.

I find this song very calming and relaxing

Im very sorry to hear the bad news, my thoughts and prayers are with you.

Hey that's a nasty list of bad times, feel for you matey. I hope nothing occurs with the theft of your wallet and fraud etc.

 

Regarding your Rays I have EXACTLY the same problem. The wheels are caked in brake dust which has eaten into the wheel. I won't be using performance friction again that's for sure. Unless it's some kind of reaction that occurs with Rays only. And yes my issue is at the front only as well. I have no solution either so will refurb some time in the future.

Thanks mate.

Do you get squeaking aswell?

I will NEVER use these pads again they have totally ruined my Z unless there is some reasonable explanation?

Some of you may or may not know ive been not posting untill recently as times got hard with studying and various other things... and just wanted to fill you on what has happened in the last few months.

Well first of all my car got broken in to in the middle of the night about 3 months ago, all the change stolen out of it (which was mainly stored in the little try on the passenger side) which they decided to rip out and take with them! Even my ipod headphones!

Everything inside the car was ruffled around, petrol receipts and so on... disgusted at the fact of somebody being in my car, i went to my boot, could see it wasn't closed properly, they took my gym bag, and leather bag with various books for studying in it which was more an inconvenience than anything else...

The worst thing was i left my wallet in the car and that got nicked... all my cards and driving licence were in there so im still a bit worried with somebody using my driving licence and so on... yes, i know silly to leave my wallet but i got home late about 10pm been working all day and just was so tired i left all my stuff in the car.

This all happened on the one night I decided to leave my car off the drive. Now this is the bit that really sucks... im not sure if my car locked when i pushed the button the night before all this happened... i could of sworn i did but maybe not...

So yeah no alarms went off or anything im guessing it was open, although im pretty religeous when it comes to locking my car but obviously i must not have because no alarm went off.

So yeah... all my fault I guess! BUT just incase reported everything to police the next morn.

The next thing is my wheels are not coated in VERY thick brake dust that will not budge after putting so many different types of wheel cleaners on them for example... Autoglym wheel cleaner, Nano Xtreme Wheel Cleaner, Halfords Advanced Wheel Cleaner. I still have big great horrible black parts along the spokes of the rays, i fear its so bad ill have to refurb, although the rears clean up fine.

Im not sure what the reason is for this, perhaps its the fact im using Performance friction pads... 01 compound up front and z on rear.

These from the install have been very stubborn when cleaning weekly, admittedly I have neglected my car of late and as a result didn't clean the car for a month... now i have these really bad deposits on the wheels which i will post some pics up of soon.

(only thing i can see getting this stuff off is wire wool)

These pads also have been squeaking so loud i dont want to drive the Z anymore its completely ruined my experience of driving the Z, ever since having them on ive been using engine braking alot more to slow the car down than brakes as one tap of the brakes results in a squeak and after 4 or 5 normal applications of the brake i get a horrifiying squeak (the anti squeal shims not on the back of these pf pads) perhaps because of my engine braking i have caused my next problem....

Now i know the Z gearbox is notchy when changing gears but when warm 2nd is still clanking 90% of the time, and when downshifting to 1st (its very resistant to go in, and when it does it makes a whirring as if the 1st gear is engaged already but i havnt even let the clutch up... i fear i will need a new box) This is only when moving though, all other gears when clutch down moving at any speed go in fine and don't whirr. The whirr is kind of like you just lifting the clutch up at high speed to a lower gear and you get a whirring as the car matches up with the revs if that makes sense

oh and how can I forget somebody scraped my rear bumper while my car was parked and drove off so I had to get a total rear bumper respray for 200... I parked the car in a bay along the side of the road on the end one as far away as possible (within the lines) from any other car.

Good news i have an extended warranty but bad news is i need to service the car im over by like 1000 miles and havnt got round to booking it in.

if i remember correctly im at 22.5k last service was a p1 and one before that was a p1 also. So im probably looking at a p3 because my car is an 06?

Sorry for such a long post I just really have been tied up lately and wanted to get this all out of my system!

I have missed the forum And most of all, i just want my Z back to how it was...

Any updates husky?

Anders, where are you?

Cruise control - couldnt get it to work on A1 today, must read manual! if i remember rightly; activate cruise then push up on the cruise arrow, and it should be set.

Kingman

Im pretty sure its down to Set your cruise control, where as up is to resume the speed you set your cruise at previously... if you put your foot down to overtake or something (After turning it on of-course)

GTR modded with switzer 800hp i think, pretty cool what you can do

gotta love that Bugatti interior though, and given enough space itll overpower the GTR.

Like them wheels...

+1

Chavtastic!

what about one that cant be seen, perhaps near numberplate lights?

interested indeed

Makes me sick to see how much they have dropped in price...

perhaps i should get rid of mine before i make an even bigger loss!

hope it works.... my cat doesnt walk on my car, but likes to get inside the car and go for a drive with me

Gratz! and welcome

pics!

Mine is an 06 GT UK and i can confirm i noly have an ESP button, its to turn of the TCS though so meh im pretty sure its normal for all the cars?

At the risk of possibly upsetting a couple of people.....

 

If as you say you want something that is about self defence you are wasting your time. The fitness and well being, I have no doubt you will get from wing tsun, but self defence you will not get. Something that really annoys me is traditional martial arts preaching they are good for self defence, convincing susceptible people that they are investing time and money in something that will be effective should an aggressor attack.

 

The early UFCs were a huge wake up call to many martial artists as it was possible to see effective techniques and those not so effective. UFC 5 in particular saw wrestler Dave Beneteau v Wing Chun Master asbel Cancio; the fight lasted approx 30 seconds with Cancio being brutally beaten (the fight is on youtube if anyone is interested titled "Wing Chun (Ving Tsun) In MMA" - thought it not appropriate to link it). There are plenty more examples like this.

 

The reason I use the example of the UFC is because MMA (mixed martial arts - sometimes referred to as cage fighting) is the closest thing we have in combat sports which resembles a street fight. Therefore if something works in MMA against a trained athlete then you can be sure it works on the street against your average drugged up idiot. Incidentally it is widely regarded that the best base for any MMA fighter is wrestling. It is also the most physically hard sport I have trained and competed in.

 

This is not me saying MMA or wrestling is "better" than any other combat sport / martial art, you will get something different from them all - it just depends on what your priorities are. If the well being that you mention is more important than self defence then carry on. If the confidence knowing you are learning something that would be effective in self defence outweighs the spiritual aspect you may gain from another martial arts then get yourself down to your local MMA / wrestling / muai thai / BJJ club. I'll be happy to point you in the direction of a reputable place near to you.

 

Again if the wing chun way of life as mentioned above is what you are looking for then please forgive my mini rant!

i really have to disagree that wing chun is an ineffective way of protecting yourself, at competition level you can never say one style is better than the other it is my belief it is a combination of things...

fitness, strength, speed, accuracy, technique all play an important roll, who ever has the best combination can win, to say wing chun techniques are ineffective against muy thai i think would be wrong...

there are people out there at different levels, and the most talented wing chun master will obviously defeat an intermediate muy thai so its not a fair comparison... it is all about who is at a higher level, that is my belief, i also believe each fighting style has its weaknesses... no one style is better than the other and that is why bruce lee used a mixture.

I hope you have a speedy recovery just keep headstrong!

As for the Z mate if your not driving it surely doesn't cost 500 per month?

I think its because we import alot more outside of europe and therefore pay more in to the european union or somthing... which in turn means the rest of Europe benefits I THINK.