Tricky-Ricky

It seems to be very difficult to sell CDs and DVDs these days, unless its something clicky or really collectable, i tried selling a load of hard to get and no longer available drift and Japanese car tuning related DVDs a while back on several forums, and you would think they would go easy....

not one bit of interest, so rather than sell them for 50p or a pound i would rather keep them, i wonder with the renewed interest in vinyl, if the prices of all the old albums is going to rise?

Definitely a bit of both.

LOL! think they need to invest in a decent translator....or lay off the crack......"Brymbo breaks". is that a new dance move.

Thanks for the reply....stripped and cleaned the carb for the fourth time, and in now seems to be working, so i obviously managed to dislodge whatever miniscule piece of crap that was blocking something, so fingers crossed i don't end up doing it again, it has been faultless for the last three years, so i guess i cant complain too much.....back to my favourite job...grass cutting:

This one is driving me nuts, it started cutting out so did all the usual, checked the fuel delivery from tank etc, then rebuilt and cleaned the carb,

twice! the second time it dropped the idle, but ut still does the same thing...runs for about a minute and dies, so to me that says fuel starvation, the primer/pump bulb stay full of fuel and not running dry, the fuel lines are not blocked, and the diaphragms in the carb look fine, anyone had these sort of symptoms and managed to cure it?

Lucky nobody was hurt, doesn't look like much damage for a paving slab when you where travelling at 40mph, i would say you where very lucky all round, should have taken the windscreen and passenger (if you had one) clean out! wont be a write off by any means though, easy cheapish repair.

Definitely not! quite a bit bigger and different shape.

The other draw back of interior wrap is that because the interior heats up so much the wrap moves and comes off.

Couldn't remember if its a rubber washer or O ring, but i would try a plumbers merchant.

Is the O ring/rubber washer hard? could be that its no longer keeping the cap from vibrating loose. try replacing it.

No worries! has it got a plenum spacer fitted, and/or a catch tank? they would be prime locations for an air leak, so unmetered air getting in, before going out and buying new lambdas, i would give the plenum join etc a spray with something like WD40 and see if you can spot a leak,

hope you get it sorted.

It would indicate that the main O2 sensors are not meeting the required readings, but just what the problem is a don't know as i cant cross reference those codes in my manual, so i cant tell you whether its a MAF problem or just the sensors, i would guess it heater related, or you would have one more code relating to the rich/lean on the other bank if it was the MAF.,but yes there could be an air leak in the manifold, or the plenum.

Cant even find those codes on my workshop manual, what reader are you using, and is it set correctly?

Lambda sensor codes start with 11.

I'd just get Far Harbor for now, the second bit of proper DLC (Nuka World) is due next month. That'll almost certainly be worth the cash again, I reckon.

Didn't know about that, thanks! do you think they will put that on a disc with far Harbour, or keep it as a separate money maker?

Far Harbor was much, much better than I thought it was going to be. Proper huge, well worth the money.

 

The other silly little things like Automatron and the Wasteland stuff had nothing interesting to me. The AT storyline bugged for me right at the end too, very nearly had to start the whole thing again!

Thanks for that, thought the other bit where not going to be much good, is it worth getting the whole package or just Far Harbour? is there

anything else worth having on the disc.

I see, so probably nothing to worry about. I think the forum member who sold me said the car e is using Invidia True Dual exhaust system, with Invidia Sports Cat's.

Yes the sports cats will do it, you can buy spacers that are supposed to eliminate the code by keeping the sensors cooler, sometime they work sometimes not, the sensors are there to monitor the condition of the cats, but like i said under normal circumstances the sensors are not used for fuel trim, unless something goes seriously wrong with the primary O2 sensors.

Sorry to bring this up if everyone has finished talking about it, but has anyone bought and played the Fallout 4 expansion pack/season pass? and what did they think of it?

They are not normally used in normal operation/ or if there is a problem with the primary O2 sensors, but decats or non std exhausts can make them throw a fault code, i actually ram my car without them fitted, as i used an after-market wide-band lambda setup.

Do you run a EGT gauge on yours? i do wonder if the std N/A cam timing has a bearing on the combustion temps, as N/A will have a much higher overlap than a comparable turbo motor, so at high RPM/load its compounded with the N/A with a turbo, and add the slightly leaner afr

and EGTs could be significantly higher, which will raise overall engine temps........but lets hope its a much easier fix.

If your tracking it on a regular basis WI is definitely worth considering.

Fingers crossed that all your effort sorted it,

The only other things that can influence the Trac control part of the ECU is the ABS/speed sensors, but they usually either work or don't.

Are those temps with an oil cooler? is that a std rad, or is there an larger alloy job in there? its hard to see, that could be one reason you seeing high temps, coupled with the lean mix.

with engine up to temp both fans should turn on when air con is switched on.

That does look a bit on the lean side, i would richen up the map slightly, overall engine temp is influenced by combustion temps and friction, so this is the main reason your seeing overheat, what are you oil temps? and are they water cooled turbos? i would presume they are.

Judder can be caused by lots of reasons, contaminated friction material by oil from a leaking seal (unlikely) friction material warped from slipping/overheating, same goes for the flywheel friction surface,

Cold be a defective of badly adjusted clutch pedal, faulty slave cylinder,it could also be down to the way you are engaging the clutch, IE not giving enough rpm.