Tricky-Ricky

With an SC its working all the time, so if using higher RPM in low gear your making as much boost as at a higher gear, so the result is more heat generated, so normal to see oil temps of up to 120c when really pushed, if you see more on a regular basis, then that's the time to fit an oil cooler.

oil temp needs to reach 100C or the water vapour and contaminates are not evaporated,

coolant wise the average is designed to be between 90 and 100C.

Do you have an intercooler?

I just cant understand quite how someone who has had a quite serious accident, and takes a year out of driving, can just resume with the same attitude, sounds slightly delusional to me, unfortunately she will probable end up killing herself.....lets just hope she doesn't take anyone with her.

As your running a supercharger, i presume that's why your concerned, are you still running the std gauges? i would be inclined to used a decent oil temp gauge/sensor as a minimum, the std coolant temp gauge will be rather insensitive and report normal temp for quite a wide temp range, so i would also use a good after market gauge/sensor for that too.

I would also guess that your running an intercooler, intake temps shouldn't be too much of an issue.

Try ZMANALEX on here, he should be able to sort you out a sensor.

When i had a look at this, i discovered that a lot of cars seem to run higher coolant temps, which i suppose backs up the claims that it has better temperature transference properties, but also seem to indicate that the cooling system needs a bit of a revamp to use it effectively, personally regardless of filling for life, it also gives you no chance to periodically check the state of the system by draining or topping up.

It could well be the yaw sensor playing up, it senses the gyroscopic movement from the axis the car is moving on, so the slip control is only operating because of a spurious sensor reading.

ok, parked on hill (pointing downwards), reverse gear selected and engaged, clutch pedal fully depressed (wont' come backup up)

 

currently unable to start car due to battery flat (separate issue)

 

BUT clutch won't release the currently reverse gear selection as it's already depressed

 

it must be somehow related to the battery issue

Can you explain just why you think its battery related, as you have been told repeatedly, the clutch has no physical connection to any electronics bar the start switch, which is a safety lock out to prevent the car being started in gear and jumping forward.

The clutch is purely operated via hydraulics, so it sound like you have ether a faulty master cylinder at the pedal, or a faulty slave cylinder at the clutch, or the operating arm is broken, or the clutch disengagement bearing has collapsed, it is not i repeat not an electrical issue.

Yep as above, totally unrelated, the clutch mechanism will operate whether engine runs or not.

Why would you want to start it with a clutch that doesn't work...it wont move?

Why can't the clutch be depressed? you could always complete the switch circuit with a piece of wire.

I had an advisory on my Golf Gti for 3 years running for the bushes in the rear suspension arms being perished and apparently about to fall out. I didnt touch them, then on the 4th year it passed with no advisories at all. Same garage, same MOT tester. All depends on how they feel on the day really.

 

But fair play on you, wanting to get them replaced before selling the car, thats got to show a potential buyer that your a serious seller.

LOL! MOT testers.

With metric bolts the number IE M6 =6mm, is the size/dia in mm, as already said the head size can vary depending on application/maker etc, there are also fine and coarse thread pitches for some sizes/dia.

Cant believe that people seem to think its OK to take 4+ hours to remove an fit an exhaust, the std system has eight bolts and four hangers, if they are seized, they would just be cut with oxy acetylene or cut off disc, the whole process 1/2 hour max, should be less, to fit an after market exhaust even if true dual would have 12 bolts, so perhaps i hour with a bit of fiddling with the hanger mount points.

Trouble is i have no pics of before, i'll see if i can find some on line.

Here is a video i found, not the same car but you get the idea, works well, my trim was pretty chalky, and is now a a nice even satin dark grey.

Just tried the old trick of using a heat gun on my civics badly faded plastic trim, and all i can say is i am impressed! i had tried a few things to try and get the colour back, but this has basically restored the original colour and slight shine, took a couple of hours as there is a lot of plastic, but well worth it.

I also think a lot of people don't stop to consider that to insurance companies/underwriters, the specific cost of repair for the particular vehicle varies tremendously, and in the OPs case the Skyline 350GT has high replacement parts cost/availability, and is often written off for minor accident damage because of this, so the insurance costs will reflect this, so it may be prudent to check ALL the small print, and make sure the precise model of the car is in the policy, otherwise you may find that when it comes to paying out for accident damage you may find yourself footing the bill yourself.

Just how much oil is it using?

it used 3/4 of a litre over 500miles

I would start with a compression test, and see what the results are.

Just how much oil is it using?

I presume you mean the PCV valve, if you mean the one with the ball valve in it, its on the left side at the front end of the cam cover, and the pipe connects to the plenum, it highly unlikely that this would be the cause of high oil consumption, due to the fact that the system works but pulling oil vapour/blow-by into the plenum, if this valve is blocked it wont pull any oil through, and if its stuck the result is that as engine revs rise, the plenum depression lowers so the same result.

If you have high oil consumption, and don't have the rev-up engine, then i would first run a compression test,and go from there, its more likly to be a ring/bore seal problem, has the engine got a high mileage and no full service history?

LOL! yes winds me up too, guess they think their cars are articulated, mind you the list can be endless, the worst three in my area are no indication, or indicating after they have turned, using two lanes when one will do, and moving over on you if you go to overtake.

If they have no proof that its indeed 32cm longer, then its their word against yours, do you have/or can you get anything in writing form the seller stating the overall size, that would shut them up.

but yes as above tell them to swivel.

Nice looking car, modern diesels are not to be underrated, my Honda surprises a lot of people, recently a Skyline GTT.

Purley on the fact of the dyno results and the free flowing nature gives very good throttle responce not to mention it sounds mint

Imo you will not notice any throttle response difference between a s/s cone filter & a paper cone filter at all. Plus you will need a remap (UpRev) for it to make any performance increase on the Zeds engine anyway, ...most people who fit air induction kits and don't UpRev their Zeds afterwards have done it purely for an increase in induction noise & to give their car some engine bay bling.

 

Personally I'd stay clear of the s/s cone filters because of there poor filtration ~ in other words, they aren't as efficient at stopping cr*p from getting into your engine as the alternatives.

 

Up to you though and good luck with your search.

Agreed! stainless mesh filters are not good at catching smaller particles like dust etc, and also pretty much all cone filter induction kits will loose you power rather than gain, they might make it sound like its faster

Anyway people want what they want

Have you tried ebay?