Tricky-Ricky

My god! has your car previously been kept in the sea? cant make out if that's a sub frame or part of the main chassis, if the latter there is going to be a lot of repair work I'm afraid.

i would say it would have to be quite a leak to affect the reading.

Absolutely no reason to get an oil cooler unless the engine is highly tuned N/A and i mean race spec, or used as a track toy full time, or it turbo charged, If its supercharged its no always necessary unless your seeing oil temperatures of over 120c on a regular basis.

Its possible for a downstream air leak to mess with the front sensor reading due to reversion, but only likely if the leak is at the junction of the manifold and the cat, as i said i don't have that code on my chart so was nor sure which sensor or rich/lean, but if its showing a lambda code for either then its obviously out of range.

Couldn't find the code, so presumed it was the usual cat sensors giving a spurious reading.

Why didn't they simply turn off the cat O2 sensors during the remap....its a little worrying that they don't seem to know to do this when fitting decats or hyflow cats., sensors 1-bank 1 and 2 is the main O2 sensors, sensors 2- bank 1 and 2 are the cat monitors.

Sounds like you have a major short, check the starter motor and solenoid, it could be a shorting or stuck solenoid, even though its starting OK it still could be that, although any major shorts should in theory blow the main fuse link at the battery, worth checking that somebody hasn't bodged that.

Its just a case of practice, getting the finish form the can,..... can be difficult, you have no need to over correct, a light flat will be sufficient, followed by a nice wet coat of paint, that should...IF its not to humid in the spraying environment give you a nice even finish, if its humid you could end up with bloom...sort of milky patches.

You want to use 800-1000 grit and some water and just give it a mild going over until its a bit smoother, tip soak the wet n dry first, this will stop it wanting to take off the edges, then once its all dried off, and free of dust, respray...your obviously a little hesitant if your getting a lot of over spray, you need to apply it so you get a wet coat, but without any sagging, unfortunately its a learning curve getting it right

My thoughts too.......how often is the oil changed?

If the oil viscosity is 5w30 then it will meet the required spec, iit cannot change its viscosity, it deliberately thin on cold start up to make sure it can be pumped around all the oil galleries etc without being restricted, the fact that there is suddenly an increase in pressure implies a restriction in the circulation system, it could be a malfunctioning gauge/sensor, but as it rather sudden i would suspect a faulty oil filter, so i would first recommend changing this.

Question for the OP did you happen to note cold oil pressure before the change?

Strange one, i have heard of some oil filters becoming partly blocked and raising oil pressure due to not having a relief valve in the filter, but cant see that being your problem, other than that i wonder if the pressure sensor/gauge has gone faulty, or perhaps the oil pump pressure relief valve is stuck, however it is normal for the oil pressure to get quite high in first cold start, and it should drop when fully warm.

Always liked that car Thinking about it throw in a big modern diesel motor and you could have a 4-500bhp torque monster that would out drag almost anything on the road....and get 40-50 PG.....

 

one of the lads i know was looking into putting a audi v8 diesel in his rx7 for a similar reason

Makes sense to me....still get the same or even better performance as spending a small fortune on big turbo's etc, and reduce your fuel consumption into near single figures, and the only difference is the sound...but there are way around that as well.

I out dragged a Skyline GTT in my Civic diesel the other week, much to the lads surprise.

Always liked that car Thinking about it throw in a big modern diesel motor and you could have a 4-500bhp torque monster that would out drag almost anything on the road....and get 40-50 PG.....

Tricky, you're now making assumptions on what metal he found. It could be from anything! I'm not saying its definitely not damaged but people are wading in with comments about stop driving immediately and buy a new engine. I would bet these same people would not do this if it were their own car, they'd simply take it to a garage to have it looked at in hope it was nothing major. Let's not fill the poor sods head with doom just yet

No i am making an educated guess! i have worked on, built and tuned engines on and off for the last 45 years, which i think qualifies me to make a reasonably educated guess.

I think to be saying that because there is a small amount of metal filings in the oil, the engine is destined to go bang immediately, is perhaps jumping the gun a little. There are many reasons why this could happen and there are many companies making and selling magnetic sump plugs to catch the filings so clearly it is to be expected in some instances. Talk of stop driving immediately as you're a danger to other road users and your car is about to explode at any second just come across as scaremongering. Get it checked out and go from there.

So how would you translate the following symptoms.... Smoking badly on load, and metal filings in the sump, in my experience both are cause for concern, ring damage can result in seizure/broken con rods etc, and unless the metal in the sump is very very fine and hardly viable, anything more and your looking at pick up on the white metal bearing of the crank or big ends, the OP has already stated that it only had 3lt of oil in it, so it has undoubtedly been starved of oil.

I certainly wouldn't be risking driving it for any distance without at least pooping a bearing shell off (he did say the mechanic dropped the sump) and running a compression and leak down test on it, so i think advising him not to drive it, on the grounds it could seize/drop it oil over the tyres and potentially cause an accident if not being over cautions.

I guess you would drive it until it went bang then?

Oh and magnetic sump plugs are designed to pick up ferrous metal and not white metal from bearings.

I have another car, me and the girlfriends share it for work (we both work at the same place) and yes (its hard work sometimes )

 

Honestly i'm not too bummed out by it all... its no question what has to be done and no question to me if it should be done either. Its just a matter of when in terms of getting some funds together.

 

 

I'm not using the car daily and in fact i wont touch it now until TRAX in September. I'll make sure i have plenty of oil to top it up on the way down and just take it easy. Its not smoking on part throttle or just cruising about so should be ok on the motorway.

 

 

Hope to get some money together in a few months and get it done for Chrismas. The wheels will be coming off for winter and i hope if i sell them that should help a bit towards the overall cost.

 

 

I forgot to mention that i took the oil sump off when i dropped the oil yesterday and it all looks pretty good in there, some residue on the sump bottom from fine metal filings but surly thats to be expected.

 

I'll update as i go and if i take the engine out myself i'll post up some pics. On that note it might be handy if there is a little "how to" :lol:

Sorry to hear this fella, unfortunately if there are metal particles in the oil, its not just piston rings, sounds like bearing metal to me, i would suspect the oil pressure has got low enough to cause damage to the crank bearings, due to starvation....not what you want to hear, but as others have said its a bit of a risk to run it for any distance, as if it does seize, you could end up needing a new block/engine rather than a rebuild, not to mention what can happen if your travelling at speed when it does lock up, or dump its oil over your tyres, you would be taking an unnecessary risk in my opinion.

Thanks! but i don't think the product key should be a problem once i manage to boot it from windows, the bios stored key should activate it, my problem is that i can get a copy of windows 8.1 via the Microsoft media creation tool, i just get the message "This service cannot be started, ether because its disabled, or because it has no device associated with it"?

and i couldn't find a malware free copy via torrent.

 

PM your address, I think I have a non-malware win 8 DVD somewhere. You might have to use Windowz Update to get to 8.1 though.

Thanks Stu, the offer is very much appreciated, but someone on another forum has already put a couple of windows discs in the post, but if i am still stuck, i will drop you a PM.

Thanks! but i don't think the product key should be a problem once i manage to boot it from windows, the bios stored key should activate it, my problem is that i can get a copy of windows 8.1 via the Microsoft media creation tool, i just get the message "This service cannot be started, ether because its disabled, or because it has no device associated with it"?

and i couldn't find a malware free copy via torrent.

Used to like leeks but not in oil.

A lot of the new intelligent auto boxes can constantly vary the drive according to how you use the throttle, but the Z ECU is pretty basic in that it just retains short term fuel trim and timing information until reset...and then it starts again, however this will not result in any performance gains or adapting to mods as some think.

I think the biggest problem i have, and the wife in particular with them is the fact that they wont allow blood transfusions to save a life, and the wife will always hit them with is in relation to children...totally ridiculous concept!

I did look into ubuntu, but it looks a faf to fresh install, and besides this is the "wife's" laptop, and she baulked at 10 as soon as there was the slightest problem...........

The trouble is i cant download an iso the creation tool wont allow me to proceed, it will allso be difficult to get proof of purchase as the laptop was an insurance replacement for one that was damaged, the product key is in the bios so can even access this to authorise any new copy.