Tricky-Ricky

LOL! variable resistor on MAF signal......hmm very hi tech.

Only if the existing grounding points are causing a resistance due to corrosion, but given the age of the car i doubt you will notice any difference.

Its either not getting enough air of fuel, i thought limp mode limited to a lower RPM?, anyway as said check AFM and also fuel flow/pressure.

Presumably there s no pool of oil underneath the car? and no obvious oil in the engine bay.

Fitting an oil pressure gauge is usually one of the first things i do...just to be sure, its an excellent early warning.

Sounds like there has never been enough in there, however the fct that you say you fill it and oil appears on the dipstick is strange, i presume you wipe the dip stick and wait a while before reading again?

I used www.paints4u.com for some paint, I'd highly recommend them. They even mixed some paint and put it into aerosol for me so I could test it for a colour match without buying the whole lot first. Super helpful over the phone too, they helped me find a code for a 1968 chevy paint colour they only made for the year out of one factory in California!

Me too! they do very good paints and quite a lot of great colours, including some flip stuff.

LOL! i know just how you feel, i now shun certain jobs on the car, wont touch a clutch replacement any more, the 370 must be a real pain, i know i found the clutch pedal modification on the 350GT a bit of a pain 5 years ago, and i am now 64 and have arthritis and fooked knees, but also still work out, and stunningly handsome too. seat out is definitely a good idea, or the fire brigade cutting gear will make a nasty mess Good luck fella.

I have been lucky enough to have mates in both the garage and body shop trade, so with being able to buy paint at trade, and bunging them a few quid, i have ended up spraying quite a few of my cars over the years, i have even fitted body kits and prepped cars at the side of the road, along with spraying door and bonnet shuts...became i a bit of a local celebrity at one stage.

Welcome to the world of inner tyre wear.

Watched it a couple of weeks ago, the latest anime is pretty impressive, very life like.

Gun settings and technique are key when spraying wheels, the trick is to know./realise the surfaces that paint/lacquer will build the most and avoid it, Where are you going to be spraying? if its an un heated garage you will need to heat in this weather, and also use a quick hardener and thinner to avoid runs and bloom, which you probably will get if you try and spray on a damp day even with heating.

Presuming its similar to the 350Z pedal, which i can't see why its not, this may help.http://www.350z-uk.c...t-clutch-pedal/

Grind it back until all the damage is revealed and then use some matt and resin, and finish of with a filler, flat all over with 240grit and prime with a filler primer.

Sounds like an air lock in the heater matrix, i think it may be the highest point in the system.

I have gone back to Fallout 4 yet again, yeah i know, I'm addicted, after playing through Far Harbor DLC, i am back in the wasteland, and actually found about four new locations, really thought i have just about found them all, so i wonder just how many more are tucked away.

I have amassed around 15 suits of power armor, but now having trouble finding fusion cores, and i am at level 75, no cheats etc, after looking on the net i now wish i had bought an Xbox instead of a PS4, as there are some fantastic mods available for F4 like adding vegetation and all kinds of buildings etc, will have to look at getting a Xbox 1S in the near future.

If the battery compartment is the same size as the Skyline 350GT which i am pretty sure the JDM Z is, this battery will fit and give a much better capacity.

Yes can be done, it would need some sort of internal brace, perhaps out of close fitting wood and use rein to bond, then grind back the top layers of glass, and bandage with mat and resin, obviously it cant remain in the carbon look and will need paint but it should be fine, i have repaid far more complicated parts with good results.

Its always a pain parking on street, i used to have the same problem, and had battery's fail just from not using the car much and the alarm draining the battery, used to run CCTV on the car, but that doesn't help if you cant get the same parking place.

You could just try fitting the largest capacity/size battery that will go in, or fit a dual battery and split charge system,...or just put up with changing the battery yearly.

I have read the forums about this issue but nothing covers my issue. The EML light (57 reg roadster) has come on frequently and having it checked at an independent garage each time the only options to me is spend £250 on replacing the lambda sensor or £750 on a new catalytic converter. They are not sure which it is. Has anyone else come cross this problem and offer some advice?

Thanks

Can you tell us the code they are reading? it sounds like its the cat monitor sensor....or the cat, however the cat monitor (lambda) sensor uses a different scale to the main lamda's, so unless you can find the exact part number and get a cheap replacement if available, it will be a Nissan only part.

I'm surprised you haven't had a straight to the point answer yet. The standard pressure gauge is inaccurate as hell. When on the track I always got really low pressure when hot and idling with the standard gauge. 5/40 isn't too bad but still pretty thin. I run 10/60 so that it's still doing its job when mega hot and limiter bashing. Wouldn't recommend it on a daily driven NA car tho. Get yourself a proper oil pressure gauge to see what it's doing and your mind will be at ease.

Just for the record I've been drifting mine with just under 500hp for 2 years and never had a baffled sump yet with no issues (touches big piece of wood) so i wouldn't say it was essential.

Also try not to come across as a bit of a dick on here when people are trying to help you

 

He has! he just chose to ignore them.

I'll only ignore something if I feel its not relevant, like most of your posts in this thread. Please just leave it out....

I made a perfectly valid and correct suggestion to you problem that you asked for help with , along with others, yet you just chose to ignore them and latch onto the first persons suggestion that dint ask you to be a little more polite in you response.

I rest my case! there is just no helping some people, however i hope you get a solution to you problem that you like, and don't worry i wont be bothering to help in future.

The original hose that goes from the clutch master cylinder to the slave would have a banjo fitting at each end, so bolted, if the original was broken it would have taken a fair bit of force.

If you have fitted a braided unit, once all tightend up, with the MC filled, if you don't have a vacuum pump/auto brake bleeder, try this with the slave cylinder bleed valve cracked open, attach a piece of hose to the bleed nipple, and immerse the end of the hose into a small jar full of brake/clutch fluid, and then gently pump the clutch pedal, keeping an eye on the reservoir, and top up if needed.

You should be able to tell if the fluid is being pulled through, once this happens, you should be able to close the bleed nipple and the pedal should pressurise, and the clutch should disengage, if not, or you still have air in the system replete to process.

I'm surprised you haven't had a straight to the point answer yet. The standard pressure gauge is inaccurate as hell. When on the track I always got really low pressure when hot and idling with the standard gauge. 5/40 isn't too bad but still pretty thin. I run 10/60 so that it's still doing its job when mega hot and limiter bashing. Wouldn't recommend it on a daily driven NA car tho. Get yourself a proper oil pressure gauge to see what it's doing and your mind will be at ease.

Just for the record I've been drifting mine with just under 500hp for 2 years and never had a baffled sump yet with no issues (touches big piece of wood) so i wouldn't say it was essential.

Also try not to come across as a bit of a dick on here when people are trying to help you

He has! he just chose to ignore them.

You may find it needs a vacuum applying to the open bleed nipple, IE brake bleeding device, to get the fluid moving through, mind you i am struggling to comprehend just how the clutch was previously working after the crash, with the pipe union that feeds the slave snapped??

Right, end of please guys. Sounds like a serious issue with the car so lets focus on resolving that please and helping the OP.

Posted my comment while you where posting, however there are ways to ask questions on a forum, and some of his responses put peoples backs up simple, so some of us who actually care how people behave on this forum had a comment to make.