Mark@Abbey m/s

13 minutes ago, Nardo_Z said:

Not a silly question mate. I've done these already to be honest. I've got wider stickier Michelin 4s, HSD coilovers, EBC pads & discs with some custom cooling ducting, and a pro alignment job. Lightweight flywheel and fast road clutch too. SO the driveability is good.

 

I'm not really specifically looking for HP gains as such, it's rapid in the bends but feels like it wanes a bit pulling out of mid speed corners and mid speed on straights. 

 

A diet is also on the cards for her.

 

Thanks mistpro

 

I have a single HFC on each branch and I JUST get through MOTs and in the two years I've had it I've needed to replace them already. :-( 

 

Yeah that was my thinking I wonder if a set of long tubes then some custom HFC mid point would do the trick, wouldn't then necessarily be limited to those designed for 350s so could perhaps go for slightly bigger ones. But that has it's own implications. 

 

I know it's a potentially expensive option but if I'm serious about an intermediate NA build I could look to have an ECU that facilitates a "road" and a "track day" map that would allow me to run this kind of set up and still be able to do it on the road. Although I guess that could be super tricky to not run into issues and damaging said engine. I'm into the dark side well beyond my knowledge now......

 

Genius, thanks chap

 

Road or Track map? what run 2 types of fuel? 

the stuff we have with long tube are all race cars no cats no driven on the road and very aggressive builds I am afraid

On 21/04/2020 at 23:28, msitpro said:

You'll be around 245-250whp currently. Roughly 287-295bhp, just shy of a stock HR. (306bhp)

 

Equal length tubular headers like those on the HR (see DC sports) will take it to around 265-270whp with tune. About the same as a stock 370Z makes and about 15whp up on a stock HR on a dyno. Roughly 305-315bhp. Around £1200 all in job if you're paying for labour on top of parts.

 

264°-272° cams will see it to 290-305whp, roughly 330-350bhp. I guess £2000 for parts, labour and tuning.

 

Porting would then be worthwhile, opening the lower plenum collector and optimising the intake ports in the heads. Stock HR heads flow slightly better than the DE, but can be made better than stock HR after a good port job by somebody that knows what they're doing. That might see 310-320whp. Roughly 365-375 bhp.

 

Although, to realise the most benefit from the cams and head work, you'd need to be prepared to wring it out to 7.2k+ I suspect... Which isn't advised on a stock DE supposedly. (Rods, rod bolts and oil pump failures)

 

I'm one step ahead of you, with the same mods but with headers and a Kinetix plenum instead of the spacer and hit 270 @ hubs.... At 6800rpm, which is really high for a DE without cams. I've had redline set to 7100 currently.

 

If you or I went for cams, I would expect the peak power to then be pushed to 7200rpm-7500rpm mark, plus it'll still make power after that. Something I'd need to change rods, rod bolts and oil pump for.

The only headers worth fitting are PPE long tube headers with the merge collectors, we tried the HR headers type on the DE they never give much more than 5 to 10 bhp which isn't good for the costs/time.

Hi , 

Just to confirm we are still tuning 350Z with Uprev software and the 370's with Ecutek @ Abbey Motorsport after we have had a few customers ring and say we have stopped tuning these cars and they need to go to Horsham Developments;

For the rest of August and September we are going to be offering Uprev single map tuning on our in house dyno for £360-00 inc vat, extra maps and ARC items will be extra.

Nissan 370Z I will work on the deal pricing over the weekend 

Answer via email

1 hour ago, SuperStu said:

Mark, you've mentioned twice now that you're not happy that you have no right of reply on closed Facebook groups. Much as I personally would love to be the person who decides what is and isn't appropriate for Facebook, the Team here has no say over their P&Ps.

 

From what I can see above, you're not happy with name calling from Torqen and a sponsorship deal. I can understand why you would not be happy about the former and that would not be tolerated on the club forum or social media. The latter is a matter for the car owner and whomever is buying advertising space on the car.

 

None of this appear to be related to the club's Facebook page nor the forum. If I am mistaken, please let us know and we will treat it accordingly.

 

In order to move this forward, I suggest a couple of things which may be of use.

• Address your concerns with Facebook's private groups and privacy settings with them, and raise a dispute.
• You have your own Abbey webspace, this may be a more appropriate place to air grievances about social media, without involving a third party.

 

This is not intended to diminish your concerns but it is intended to illustrate that we are here to assist with disputes related to the content and/or trading that goes on here. We've been used as space for long running feuds in the past and we have no desire to go back there, it has no benefit for Members and only creates cliques and ill-feeling, which are of no use to anyone here.

looking at it that way yes your correct , I have no way to reply on the platforms these allegations are written so thought an open forum would be good but your correct guys it isnt the place.

Thanks and stay say guys.

yep got one of those here @ ShAbbey.  Send me an Email to mark@abbeyMotorsport.co.uk

should have a pick up pipe somewhere will need to have a better look

 I have been sent some information from another Facebook group that I am unable to defend myself on (this reply will also go on the main forum to allow the said people to reply in an open forum.

I feel the use of Shabby Motorsport will go on record , the information regards Chris I never quoted that I said we "Built "Chris car the Abbey Built refereed to the building and tuning of the VQ35 motor maybe a mis-quote.

With regards his experience with us @ Abbey Motorsport there is our side to the story that I will post up with out any issues on an open forum.

I have adjusted the post as it wasn't the correct use of the forum for our Abbey Motorsport  grievances.

Just need people not on the locked Facebook pages etc to see how some people do business 

awesome build , Wiring specialities loom are pretty much plug and play , I presume your using the LS ECU so are you using the CAN BUS translator so the stock car is happy?

It’s been bought to our attention that we have been on the receiving end of very negative posts on threads, pages and by direct message that we have no access to and are therefore unable to respond to.

We have a long history and high level skill when it comes to Motorsport at many levels, including the world stage and while we will accept that there are issues when modifying cars beyond the duty that they were designed for, we always try our best to work with our customers to provide a fair and reasonable solution when things don’t go to plan.

We have posted this here in open forum so that any grievances can be discussed fairly and with all parties having a right to respond, as with many things in life, there are usually always two viewpoints or sides to everything and then, somewhere in the middle, what actually happened.

We feel strongly that we are being unreasonably targeted and wish to not only put an end to these defamatory statements, arguably boarding on Slander, by dealing with facts but also deal directly with any issues.

Please contact us with any evidence of said defamation, as we are considering legal action and also so that we can set the record straight and state the facts, present evidence or at the very least, have fair right to reply and defend ourselves.  

Let’s keep the Z community in the UK open, fair and reasonable.

Thanks for your consideration and co-operation.

Mark, Scott and the team at Abbey Motorsport

On 30/06/2020 at 20:47, Killick.z said:

Location

RH89HJ

not any takers on this deal? People un-interested or not wanting to come to Abbey for tuning your 350/370Z , I would like to know why TBH

Thanks

Mark

oil usage could be causing issues as it lowers the octane rating of the fuel. 

Few other ideas

lean fuelling- air flow meter failings fuel pump dropping flow

air leak (would normally throw a DTC thou

On 02/04/2018 at 08:28, 350Butcher said:

Not sure if this is what you're after but........

 

go here http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/

 

Select your model of Z and select EC.pdf and in the index look for "ECM Harness Connector Terminal Layout"  (DE page Pg94-95 and HR Pg103) This will give you a full list of all 120+ pins location and function

 

Ps download the lot for your car.........such a useful thing to have

One thing thou these are US car's.

The DE car  specs between UK-US and JDM are all a little different

Mainly O2 sensors

All The UK DE (276bhp) have wide-band lambda's

Early US and Early JDM cars have a different wide band sensor think is was 2005 be fore the JDM/US cars went fully wideband

But there are differences in the wiring between the cars dependant where they where built fo.

have you balanced the whole rotating assembly? Crank/flywheel/clutch cover/rods/pistons?

On 20/10/2019 at 19:55, 350Butcher said:

Nothing has really changed much this year other than been looking into a brake issue I've had for a while. I first noticed the issue on oem Brembo's as the front passenger Caliper was darkening up more than the drivers side, suggesting it was running hot (I assumed it may be dragging a little when hot etc) I checked a few obvious things but never got to the bottom of it.

 

When I installed my AP's they caliper on the passenger side ran a little hotter still so obviously not caliper and system related! As the AP's allowed for harder, later breaking this highlighted an issue with the rear drivers side brake overheating! Given that the brake circuits are split on the diagonals I thought I have a test with the infrared thermometer.........this confirmed rear axle running very hot with a bias on the primary circuit (front passenger/rear drivers).

 

I did a bit of searching a researching and found that (and I kind of always knew it wasn't a 100% fix) that removing the VDC fuse was running the VDC actuator in an "open" situation meaning among all other systems being inactive the EBD wasn't doing its thing either and the system runs a rear bias and primary circuit bias also!

 

Luckily for me a motorsport company in the US has the solution! A VDC delete block.....this allows the removal of the VDC/TCS/ABS actuator and mounts a block on the same bracket and all oem brake hoses connect straight to it with the internal plumbing in the block converting the primary circuit to operate the fronts and secondary circuit operating the rears via a proportioning valve. The road test felt good and on Oct 10th I took the car to Silverstone GP circuit and the pedal feel is totally consistent and firm and the brake performance much better. Temps confirmed that across both axles now things were equal.......overall the rears still overheat but this is because they require cooling ducting as the fronts have as opposed to system imbalance as before. I know this mod wont be for everyone as it permanently removes ABS, TCS, EBD and stability systems but I'm happy to not have these interfering and again makes the car more of a raw and pleasurable drive as a result.

 

Before:

 

 

After:

 

 

All still packaged under oem brake cover:

 

 

Interesting find on the ABS delete unit.

re the heat difference across the axles I thought you ran without the ABS/VDC connected (fuse pulled) as seeing a difference in temps cross the calipers says that the VDC is still working.

The rear biased valve , is this an extra drilling (line) in the new block assembly to allow a single line to control the feed to the 2 rear brake line?

Found the website and the tech drawings , good piece of kit , good find.

13 hours ago, kemmel88 said:

Hi All,

 

Wanted to get some advice on some alignment issues that I have been having. Have read a few of threads on here which have supported previous work, but issue still persists.

 

Symptoms

> Car can be aligned properly in spec

> Car feels tight and tracks well for first 50 or so miles

> After this time alignment seems to fall out (see images) 

> Car pulls to the left and requires correction to be straight

> Under braking can feel pull more

> When moving from standstill feels like slip from the front

> Road noise is higher than it should be

> Steering is not as tight as post alignment

> Slight clunk/rattle from front nearside over bumps (once not constant)

 

What has been done

> Car has been checked over by a reputable garage several times

> Replacement parts: rear adjustable camber arms, new rear toe bolts, front lower control arm, front upper control arm, tie rod ends, wheel bearings

> Aligned each time parts changed

> When purchased observed that banana arm had been replaced before

> New brakes, calipers also fitted

 

Alignment print outs

I have attached two. After my LCA was changed the car toed out at the front to the right which counteracted the predominant left pull. Upon realigning the car after it settled the left pull is now back, so I would presume it is similar to the second print out below where the front toe is out to the left. I have also noticed that the rear left camber is out on both before print outs and the front camber is slightly out since the LCA was fitted.

 

 

Help!

Obviously this could be a variety of issues at once, as you are aware all of this is not too cheap and it detracts from my enjoyment of the car! 

 

Wanted to guage your thoughts on this and/or the best methods to resolve from experience.

 

My gut is telling me it is banana arm related, but have also thought it could be the wheel spindle being bent, top mounts or a bent rear upper control arm?!

 

Any help on this would be appreciated!

 

Thanks

 

really just needs someone that understand hid Hunter Alignment machine

2 main things I can see that would worry me is

1,  steer ahead on the front axle is at 0-08 mins

2, these is an announced re thrust angle

The difference in rear camber I feel wont cause the pulling to the left

If you can find a dead flat piece of black stuff I presume the steering wheel inst level when driving in a straight line.

Where are you based in the UK please

Been tuning a Nissan 370Z Nismo for a customer over the last few months with good results and they owner is pretty hand making video's and blogs

Tag is #sportzntouring 

Worth a look at what we can do with a 370Z;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juktGPp-F4k&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MICEfKZe8Eg&feature=youtu.be

any questions ask away

Tomb send me an email to mark@abbeymotorsport I can get some prices and timescale on supplying these parts

1 hour ago, Judge said:

Hi Mark

 

Seeing as TDI North offers UpRev remapping in association with you, what's your opinion on the figures?

did they do a run before the tuning?

All our dyno work is carried out in 4th gear.

dyno is a tuning tool , before and after on the day is what counts.  But I am afraid every one wants to say they have the most BHP so  dyno plots get waved around then people says this cant be true.

Afraid not sold very quickly. I can supply thou. PM for a price please

thanks

just for the engine , fitting is extra.

cost is also relevant if the crank is serviceable from your exchange engine.