AlexZ

Emm sweet, you got an image of them in the dark...might be the cheaper option.

Thats true Huskey, I keep seeing them Citroen C3 DS cars flying around and I'm thinking what if I could make them vertical l.e.d lamps fit my reflector holes some how lol.. I'm thinking reduce the size a little and flick them round. Alex

Hi all, couple of months ago I pc'd some of the car (see my progress thread for further info) and I found some perforation coming through on the underside of the bonnet were seal covers. We have recently become a Nissan authorised repair centre at work. I though this is the perfect oppertunaty to have the perforation sorted and know where my car is and whats happening. The bonnets are aluminium but the paint isnt broken yet so you cant see the oxidisation and it's clear its coming from under the paint. I spoke to the local Nissan dealer who informend me theres a 12 year perforation warranty on our vehicles. He then went on to tell me the service body needs to have it's "Body & Paint" stamps filled in for the warranty to be valid (rear of service book). Sure enough I bought the vehicle second hand and the stamps arn't filled in. You need to have the Paint & Body inspection every 3, 6 and 9 years by Nissan. They've taken all the relevent information to process the claim to the Nissan warranty department but havent promised anything due to the stamps. I put my thought forward that even if the paint & body stamp had been carried out the dealer would'nt have pulled the bonnet seal back to check unless it was a common problem. I'll keep you all informed when I hear back from them but all I can do now is wait. I would advise anyone who hasnt had the Paint & Body inspection carried out and there vehicle is less than 3 years old to do so if they want there body warranty. For all others with older vehicles I would check under your bonnet seal that runs along the front because I've looked at two Z's one 54 plate and the other 04 and there both showing perforation issues lol. Alex

Haha thanks guys, I havent moved the seats for a while before the light came on. It was strange lol... I know moving the seats causes problems on some cars. I'm for ever sorting next doors Clio out for her because she has a child seat in the back. Alex

Ahh good new mate if it can be rest via the ignition. With my mate working next door to my work I didn't even look. With reference to the soldering I have seen this done a couple of time on French cars.. I'll wait and see what happens. The only think I dont understand is why it doesnt record the a fault code. If it was the seat buckles it should record the pretensioners faulty etc. Thanks for the info. Alex

That is spot on mate, I agree with you the only problem is the amount of space and making them look stock on the little reflectors. My plan is to find the right l.e.d set up were it looks like a nice positive line but with tiny gap's between the l.e.d's so it doesn't look like a chav light lol... I'm looking at these now... http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/water-proof- ... -1361.html Alex

Evening people....with the weather been fine yesterday me and my lady tooks a drive down the coast. On the way home the air bag warning light came on. This is the second time in the 11 months I've owned the vehicle. I took it to my local specialist today and he reset the warning light for me. He said "again theres no fault codes in the ecu but the light just re-set" thankfully he's a good friend and doesnt charge me. Has this happen to anyone else who has a good contact to take there vehicle to? Alex

Ok I spoke to my mate today and he's passed me these little puppies to have a play and look at. Now there orange and I want super brite white but I can plan a attach lol.. I'd really like the l.e.d's closer together so I'm keeping my eyes peeled. The l.e.d's above come with a 15 year constant run warranty and are waterproof. Alex

Haha to be honest me and Hamster went over to Nurburgring last month and we only saw one 350 (what a mess) and two 370's. All that way and we were special lol...We got looked at loads although we do have the same car, same colour, same wheels, same interior etc etc lol. Alex

Can you powercoat repair filler or would the wheel need to be bare metal repaired then fresh alloy welded in and shaped? Alex

I think Nissan have built a car for us to perfect...lol... I now have some L.e.d's to play with watch this space later for some images man. Alex

Hi Matt, if you can't see it through the ash tray I have wrote a little strip process in my progress thread although there arnt any images lol. Remember adjust the cable with the handbrake off lol. Alex

We find when we repair them at work the manufacture doesnt give a paint code for the wheels. We repair the wheel then get the colour chips from the paint scheme and spend 10mins finding the nearest colour. You will find the repaired alloys won't be the perfect match but very close. I wouldnt worry mate just get it done lol... Alex

no worries mate

Evening Alex, thanks for the quick reply...I didn't have time to get the wheels off etc today so I just whipped the three screw out the centre console and used a 10mm ratchet spanner to tighten the cable. She feels a lot better but time will tell I guess. Regards Alex Buy yourself a deep 10mm socket for next time and adjust through the ashtray aperture. Haha I have have 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch ratchets all with 10mm deep sockets, but I didnt know were the nut was...Mint tip mate, were theres a will theres a way lol.

Ok this afternoon I set about fixing the Bose left speak problems that started a little while ago. Firstly I have to say what a top thread to help you through the process if you ever plan to attempt this yourself... viewtopic.php?f=35&t=21318&start=0 I've attached a couple of closer images to help you guys see whats needed from the ribbon postion. Firstly this is what to expect.. Closer image Be careful of the two little black pins...From what I can see they keep the cd stack together..They will fall out if turned upside down lol. I've marked them in red... Finally, when the ribbon was in the retainer from stock you couldnt see any silver, Ive pulled it back and clamped it down on fresh cable. I also adjusted the handbrake cable. This isnt the full manual way to adjust the movement but if times tight this is the quickest way. Find your handbrake lol.... Remove the gear knob..(unscrew anti clockwise) Lift the gear stick surround up and unclip the ribbon to the three circle dial (air location, air postion and air blow power). You will see some black screws, undo the two lowest ones and remove the metal "L" brackets. Remove the ashtray by pulling it up and out. Remove the screw below the ashtray Slide both seats forward and tilt them towards the front screen. Remove both the screws on the rear of the centre console behind the seats (one each side) The centre console will now lift enough to get a 10mm spanner on the handbrake cable nut and tighten until your happy with the feel of the handbrake. Alexz

IIRC you work in a parts department at Jaguar???? I was susprise to see a ball joint with no steel retaining ring on it to keep the grease in lol..I bet all the ball joints you supply have steel rings on them....Stupid jap people.

Evening Alex, thanks for the quick reply...I didn't have time to get the wheels off etc today so I just whipped the three screw out the centre console and used a 10mm ratchet spanner to tighten the cable. She feels a lot better but time will tell I guess. Regards Alex

Hi people, does anyone know if you can adjust the handbrake tension via the handbrake cable at the handbrake itself rather than as the manual talks you through. Most jap cars I've fixed or serviced etc you can adjust a tension nut on the handbrake cable itself and achive equal tension to each rear disk/drum.. Alexz

Evening mate, I didnt realise they were so cheap...I thought they would be about £15-£30 each, plus fitting. The above info is a quick and easy guide if you have the gear at home..Not to sure why Nissan have made them bigger, the only design floor I can see is theres no metal ring to retain the rubber boot tight like all other ball joints I've seen hense my tie lol . sorry thats what i meant by a few quid its the only repair on my car thats been done i would class as inexpensive Ahhh fiar play mate, touch wood mines been good for the time Ive had it lol...new pads cost me £26 and I've used them round Nurburgring with no issues at all and I've replaced a cam cover gasket at £7 lol... To be honest the fix is more for people who just want to fix the issuse rather then spend cash or wait for a couple of day for delivery. The drop links arnt damaged just need relubing. I'll change mine when the rubber splits I think. Alexz

Morning Will, I started by using brake cleaner to remove any of the loose dirt. I then found the finest wet and dry paper in my shed iirc it was 2500 from work lol. I lightly used the paper to removed what was left then Autosol the he'll out of them lol. Once all the black had gone I Just polish them when the car is cleaned.

Ahh ok mate good point made about the shape. I intend on covering the reflectors anyway so it doesnt really matter on the colour... I need my mate to hook me up with some samples asap... Alex

Hi mate, to find out if it is your partner I guess the easiest thing to do is use the car yourself for a week or so. If the battery is fine blame her if not then get a battery load test from you local motor factor or Kwit Fit etc.. Alex

Evening mate, I didnt realise they were so cheap...I thought they would be about £15-£30 each, plus fitting. The above info is a quick and easy guide if you have the gear at home..Not to sure why Nissan have made them bigger, the only design floor I can see is theres no metal ring to retain the rubber boot tight like all other ball joints I've seen hense my tie lol .

Evening guys, I've been a little busy of late and the Z hasn't really been getting the attension it deserves. Last Novemeber when I bought the car the rear rear drop links were a little noisey and I found on the forum this was common. I removed them both and used chain lube to free them off and lube them up. In May the drivers side started making a little noise again so I relubed it with silicon spary. In the last week the passenger side has started to squeak again. I removed both of the this afternoon and I think I have a little mod for anyone doing it first time. Just check out the images bearing in mind the link is already removed (see earliey in thread for info) and this should last the year at least if not longer I hope going of the last lube up. Remove the link Choose the starting end and clean it up. Lift the seal and put freash grease in, be careful not to split the seal. Get your freezer bag tie (mint invention for this lol) and carefully wrap it round the top of the seal to stop any grease coming out. Without With The tie should stop the weather getting in and the grease getting out through movement. When the link is done she should look like this and job done... Hope this helps people with the issue now.. Alexz