MattG

I'd be interested to know that too. I'm guessing that RSTuning just change the Full Throttle map (if there is such a thing in the stock ECU?) and let the stock maps handle all the part throttle stuff. On aftermarket ECUs changes in ambient temps are normally handled through correction factors which get applied to the map, not a whole new map, so it's interesting that Nissan have chose to do it that way. Hi Dan, I'm not sure where the Lambda 0.86 figure comes from originally, whether it is the result of lab testing, real world experience, or a combination of the two. I've heard it quoted from many people including Motec and Bosch. To be honest though I can't imagine there's many people running bang on that figure as a good tuner would have to adjust fuel for EGTs, etc. If you're running a turbo or supercharger then adding extra fuel in for a safety margin to cool things down a bit is a good idea. My previous car was an MK1 MX-5 with a T28 turbo kit and when I tuned that I was running no leaner than 12.0:1 at full throttle to keep EGTs down and to allow a decent amount of ignition advance (which lowers EGTs even further). Using AFR as the guide for fuel mixture isn't as accurate as aiming for a Lambda value though as changes in the octane of fuel or the fuel itself can change the afr even though the lambda value remains the same. For example Lambda 1.00 (stoichiometric) for Normal Unleaded might be 14.7:1, Super Unleaded might be 14.5:1, diesel could be 17:1 and ethanol would be more like 9.0:1. All those fuels would have their most complete and emissions friendly burn at Lambda 1.00, even though the AFRs could be completely different at that Lambda value.

I don't think 14.7:1 is considered optimal at all for a car running at full throttle. Maximum power is delivered around Lambda 0.86-0.88 which is more like AFR 12.5 - 12.8:1, depending on the octane of the fuel being used. Lamda 1.00 (AFR approx. 14.7) is considered optimal for emissions via a catalytic convertor and is what you need to be running at idle to pass an MOT emissions test. Lamda 1.05 (approx AFR 15.0 - 15.5:1) would be best for fuel economy in light throttle, low MAP cruising conditions. A car running an AFR of 14.7:1 at full throttle would not last long at all, especially if forced induction was involved. A turbo or supercharged car might have to run nearer 12.0 or 11.5:1 to keep the EGTs down and to be able to run a decent amount of ignition timing. The ECU should adjust it's target AFR depending on MAP (manifold absolute pressure) level so there's no reason you couldn't have all of these conditions being met in a single map. Regarding dyno graphs showing flywheel HP, I think there is some value to these provided they are taken with a small pinch of salt. Firstly corrections can be applied to take into account differing atmospheric conditions from day to day to make runs more comparable. Also having an idea of the transmissions losses can be useful as if they are abnormally high then it would indicate something like a sticking brake caliper. If you didn't attempt to measure the coastdown losses then you perhaps wouldn't see this problem and would just think you got a crap result.

10s on the front would probably fit, but there really is no benefit to be had from it. You can get plenty of tyre on the 9s, and they fit well, and look good. The reason for really wide fronts on the 18s was to get the concave spokes, but the 19s have this solved by all being concave. You would just be spending more money for no benefit, and possibly disadvantage of a little more weight more tricky fitment and possible but not certain arch issues. I would strongly suggest sticking with the staggered fitments. Yeah, I don't think I'd want the hassles and the standard 19x9 fronts look good enough for me!

Maybe, but I don't see anyone getting annoyed which is what I assume he's after. Most seem to be just laughing at him! Although if he has to resort to this to get his kicks then maybe we should be pitying him instead? Surely if you were THAT bored and you had a 350z you'd just go out for a spin instead? Perhaps he doesn't have a 350z after all?

As others have said there are plenty of examples of Volk/work/Buddy Club/etc wheels breaking/bending/cracking too. The only reason you might see more reports of Rota failures is because far more people are running them. Rota Wheels have passed the JWL/VIA tests so they can't be that bad can they? To be honest I'm amazed people still swallow that clap trap. Volk make the LMGT4s and they are well know for corroding on the polished lips. Volk also make the optional Rays wheels for the 350z and they are known to have paint finish issues with bubbling paint, etc. Enkei are another really expensive Jap wheel and make the OEM alloys wheels for lots of the major Jap car manufacturers. Their wheels are renowned for bubbling paint finishes and corrosion with tons of MX-5 wheels being replaced under warranty. And we're not talking polished lips here, these are fully painted wheels! I'm not sure who makes the 350z GT4 wheels but there having been lots of stories of those failing in the US, and not just the powder coated ones either. The other day a member on here bought a second hand set of them and found one was buckled. My point is ALL makes of wheels suffer from issues. Given that how good a wheel looks is in the eye of the beholder, the only objective benefit that the expensive forged jap wheels have is a great strength to weight ratio which enables them to be lighter than the cast equivalent. But this is way beyond what 99% of people need or will ever notice in terms of peformance so why pay so much extra for it? As for what you posted on the Rota GTR thread: So Volk haven't ripped off the "classic" 5 spoke design then? Yeah, they were the first to think of that weren't they! Getting an artist to draw a pretty looking wheel is the easy bit, you then have to go away and then do lots of testing to make sure the design has the required strength and weight requirements which involves plenty of testing and modifying the design as the testing dictates. Given that Rota wheels are going to be made up of different alloys to Volks and are cast rather than forged, Rota can't just copy the design and then start making wheels. They have to do all the R&D again for themselves. What makes me laugh is most of the Rota bashing is done by guys driving Jap cars. Do you not realise that the entire basis of the Jap car industry since day one has been ripping off what the Europeans and Americans have been making and then selling it at a cheaper price?! Would the 350z look the way is does if the Audi TT hadn't come first? Better sell it before people start calling you a faker! I ran a couple of sets of Rotas on my previous cars and they were completely fine and great value for money. For my last car I decided to sell the Rotas that came with it and splash out and get a set of brand new Volk CE28Ns to see what all the fuss was about. They cost me £1400 (16") without tyres and I had to wait over 3 months for them. They looked great and were a little lighter than the Rotas but they still corroded under the painted finish (no polished lip) despite being cleaned every week or two. I also didn't notice the benefits of the forged unobtainium alloy despite driving the car about as hard as is sensible on a public road (a 260bhp MX-5 can be driven VERY hard!). Also when I sold them I only managed to get about £450 for them with a set of nearly new Eagle F1s tyres so clearly they aren't as sought after as people make out. Not the wisest investment I've ever made. This time I've decided to get for a set of those 19" GTRs Rarerims are running the GB on. Having tried both sides of the coin I feel I'm making the sensible choice. The money I'm saving will go towards some respray work and maybe even a Shine bodykit (more fakery! ). And I won't have to wait over 3 months for them! For me the title of this thread should be: Expensive jap wheels: worth it? For most people I'm sure the answer is no! The only thing I will agree with you on is that if you do buy replica wheels and then but put Volk/Work/Nismo/etc stickers on them then that does deserve some ridicule. But who really does that? I'll be truly amazed if anyone on here does!

Yeah, Volk invented the "Classic" LMGT4 5 spoke design didn't they?! The clue is in the word "classic". What's the matter, didn't get the response you were hoping for with your previous comment so have to be a bit less subtle this time? If you want to bitch about Rota then start a new thread in the Wheels section and I'm sure plenty of people will be happy to debate it. Again. This isn't the place for it.

If I'm honest its not the best, but not too bad, and for the price you can get them refubed about 5 times before they get anywhere near the price of Volks, so its no biggie I had mine refurbed with a powdercoat laquer which was rock solid and even that is starting to go after about a year of doing 70 miles a day It's also worth noting that the LMGT4s are well known for corroding as soon as winter sets in so this isn't restricted to the wheels at the cheaper end of the market. If you clean and seal the wheels like mad you might be able to make them last a few years before needing a refurb though. Chemical Guys Wheel Guard and Jetseal109 are both supposed to work really well in protecting the wheels. Also make sure you clean them religiously, once a week if possible, even if you don't have time to clean the rest of the car and you might be in luck. Otherwise just see it as an excuse for a refurb!

Yeah P45R = Rear. From what I read on the US forums running 19x10 on the front and rear isn't really recommended. I found the following posted by a US Rota dealer: 255/35 front and 285/35 rear would still maintain a 21mm difference between front and rear diameters (so no TCS issues) and I don't think think the front tyres would be stretched as Toyo say the T1R in 255/35/19 is good for 8.5 - 10 inch rims. The questions I have about a non staggered setup are: 1) Would it handle properly with 19x10 front and rear? 2) Would it look right, i.e. would the fronts stick out too much? 3) Would the front arches need rolling, especially if lowered, with 19x10 on the front? This is a pic of a non staggered Rota setup (18 x 9.5 I think): Another option for a deeper dish look that still has some stagger is 18x9.5 +20 front and 19x10 +20 rear. That would look like this:

Fan-bloody-tastic! They look even better than the Hyper Silver! Right, I'm definitely in for a set with FK452s! Do the nuts include a set of black lockers or is that extra? So if wanted a anthracite spokes with a polished lip that would be possible?! Something for me to think about!

Hi Ben, I've posted a few questions above. Thought I'd better mention it in case you missed them as they got caught between your last two posts.

I've added a few extra pics of the Hyper Silver fronts so to give you a better idea of the dish on those. HTH. A have a couple more questions for Ben: 1) Is the Hyper Silver wheel in the pics I've posted the same as the "Silver with Polished Lip" wheel you're selling? I assume it's just another naming difference between UK and US? 2) Do you have any pics of the centre caps for these, and is there a couple of different ones to choose from? 3) Can you offer any deals on wheels nuts (inc. locking nuts) with these too? Can't have old nuts with new wheels! Also the standard Nissan nuts tend to be a bit fat for a lot of aftermarket wheels and might not fit in the lug holes. Cheers, Matt.

Ian, I stand corrected!

Totally agree, I'd wear the Rota badge with pride! To be honest I think these might actually have a better stance than the LMGT4s, they fill the arches better and have a more dished effect. For the sake of balance I did have some Volk CE28Ns I bought from new on my last car and they were fantastic quality and VERY light, best wheels I've ever owned. But they really were overkill for the commute to work and I lost a fortune selling them on when I got rid of the car, despite them being in excellent condition and shod with nearly new Eagle F1s.

Found some better pics guys. Sorry they're all links but there's a lot of them and I don't think the forum would allow them due to their size. The black car is running Eibach springs so about a 1" drop. As far as I can find out there are no rubbing issues with that combo whatsover. Apparently these wheels are called P45, not GTR, in the US so I couldn't find any info initially. Have to say after seeing these pics I wish I had a black Z now so I could go for the Flat Black with Red Lip. Not sure they'd look quite right on a Gun Metal car. Hyper Silver Wheels - Fronts: http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/997 ... _hs_01.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/996 ... _hs_02.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/997 ... _hs_03.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/997 ... _hs_04.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/997 ... _hs_06.jpg Wheels - Rears: http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/996 ... _hs_10.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/996 ... _hs_09.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/996 ... _hs_08.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/996 ... _hs_06.jpg Pics on a 350z: http://my350z.com/forum/attachments/whe ... t-350z.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/103 ... hancer.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/103 ... hancer.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/103 ... hancer.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/103 ... hancer.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/103 ... hancer.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/103 ... hancer.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/103 ... hancer.jpg Flat Black with Red Lip Wheels - Fronts: http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/997 ... lip_02.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/997 ... lip_03.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/997 ... lip_04.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/997 ... lip_01.jpg Wheels - Rears: http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/996 ... lip_07.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/995 ... lip_06.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/995 ... lip_04.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/995 ... lip_03.jpg Pics on a 350z: http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/103 ... hancer.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/103 ... hancer.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/103 ... hancer.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/103 ... hancer.jpg Bronze Wheels - Fronts: http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/994 ... rsb_03.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/994 ... rsb_04.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/994 ... rsb_01.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/993 ... G_7260.jpg Wheels - Rears: http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/993 ... G_7300.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/993 ... G_7297.jpg http://www.wheeldude.com/gallery2/d/993 ... G_7294.jpg I couldn't find any pics of the bronze on a 350z unfortunately, but I bet they'd look great on a black or blue car!

Cheers chaps, much appreciated. Now I can go about replacing my horribly scratched stuff!

Keen prices, better than Camskill IIRC! Pending further pics I think I'll be putting my name down for for a set in Silver with polished rims shod with 452s! A question to the wheel experts on here! I take this width and offset won't pose a problem with arch rubbing etc? I'm stock ride height at the moment but might drop 15-20mm at some point in the future. EDIT: To save people the effort of working it out you're looking at the following prices on this GB: Set of FK452s: £518.04 Set of T1Rs: £741.52 GTRs with FK452s: £1334.04 GTRs with T1Rs: £1557.52 HTH.

Hopefully an easy one. Is the plastic trim in the boot of a 56 plate UK car the same as that of a 53 plate UK car? Specifically the bit that holds the boot light. I know they tarted up the dash trim on the later models but don't know if it extended to the boot trim.

Top man!

They look fantastic! I don't suppose you have bigger versions of the pic on the car and the pic of the silver with polished lip? I take it the pic on the car is of the this exact size and fitment? I can send you my email address for the pics if you like. I also second the option for wheel and tyres packages! 245/35/19 and 275/35/19 are the favoured option on here in either Falken FK452 in Toyo T1R. FYI I remember ordering a set of Rota Redlines (Prodrive replica) for my Del Sol from you way back when you started up on Honda Revolutions! I think I part-ex'd some old Enkei's against them! Time flies when you're having fun spending your money on cars!

I must admit I'd be a bit nervous about having a wheel straightened but I'm the paranoid type! From what I understand it's a fairly common process in motorsport, especially with rally cars. Take a look at the vids on this page (scroll down): http://www.alloywheelrepairs.net/WheelRepair.html If they can repair that mess yours should be fine!

Sorry to hear that. You'll definitely be covered under paypal unless the ebay ad stated the wheels were buckled (which I'm sure it didn't). You will be entitled to a full refund from the seller.

Thanks for the advice Gaz, I thought as much. Only bought them about a month ago too! Still haven't quite got the knack of planning ahead with my mods sorted! +1 Vultures! A set here ( viewtopic.php?f=32&t=24071 ) sold for £150 delivered recently so I'll do mine for the same. If either of you two guys are seriously interested in them drop me a PM and I'll give you first refusal when they come off.

Thought I might as well drag this back from the dead instead of starting a new thread. I'll be getting some 19" LMGT4s myself soon but I already have some Eibach 20mm spacers fitted with my Rays. Anyone know if the LMGT4s will fit with the spacers or will I get severe arch rubbing? The LMTGT4s will be the usual width and offset, Front 8.5 +25, Rear 9.5 +30, and tyres will be 245/35 front and 275/35 or 285/35 rear. I'm running on standard ride height at the mo but if I had room for a 15-20mm drop in the future that would be nice. If no one has tried this particular combination does anyone know what the width/offset limits are for the Z and I might be able to work it out for myself. Otherwise I'll just have to try it and go for a test drive!

No, but I bought a set of their door pods trimmed in vinyl recently. The shipping was quick but way over the odds so I'd try to negotiate that first. I got one of those strut bar boxes from SonixEnclosures and the shipping for that was less than the door pods from WickedCAS! Didn't really have a choice though as there's no way my CDT ES62i components would fit in the doors. The shipping charges were automatically added by his web site so I'd try emailing them or PM'ing WickedCAS through the US 350 forums (he seems to have a big presence there) and he might be able to do you a better shipping quote. The quality of the pods was pretty good. The fit is ok and the vinyl matches the interior fairly well. I'm tempted to get them properly retrimmed in in leather to match the seats at some point though. I did have to use some chemical metal to fix the fibreglass in a few places. I had to pull the vinyl off and modify them anyway though as the ES62i mid bass drivers were still a tad to large to fit in the pods properly! If I hadn't had to do that I'd would have left them as they came.

Looks great Mark! Glad to see you squeezed the Genny into the stock sub enclosure, I'm hoping to put one of my Dual Monos in there and the other one in the passenger side glove box. Will have to do a test fit now I have them back from Genesis (who did a fantastic job servicing them!). So how is the sound quality then with the amp and sub? Does the sub amd box combo give enough punch? Also do you find the box moves around at all now the sub is installed? Mine has been solid so far but doesn't have a sub in it yet.