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Crack / Clunk sound (yes, again)


PiGFoetus

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Yes, it's another one of those threads, but I'm fast running out of leads having ruled out some of the usual suspects.

 

Symptom = cracking / clunking sound, worse at low speed, generally on more uneven surfaces or speed bumps, or sometimes on cornering. Pretty sure it's coming from the front nearside. Started about 10 weeks ago and has steadily got more noticable (whether that's me noticing more or it occurring more often is another matter).

 

The sound is sharper than a clunk, but duller than a crack (hence the confusing description) ...

 

What I've done already:

  • I have replaced both banana arms (i.e. the arm, bushes and balljoint + new cones and nuts).
  • I have replaced the front droplinks.

I've taken it to two local garages for inspection - both say the suspension and bushings are fine (after doing the above).

 

One is saying the sound is coming from further back (near the door hinge or even in the door) or maybe under the dash. He suggests that as it's a convertible, the body's not as stiff as a coupe and the body flex is causing something to shift and make the noise.Maybe something in the door itself. Suggests it may take a good deal more investigation to find the culprit and to wait till it becomes more noticable so it's easier to track down. Not sure I want to live with it that long.

 

Before I take the door apart, has anyone had any similar issues with the internals of the door, or have any other suggestions as to where to look?

 

Cheers

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How did you replace the ball joint on the banana arm? Didn't think that was possible.

To add to what Alex said I would also take a look at the inner bush of the front LCA (translink arm) as this also fails commonly. You can be lucky to note the arm is not centred which will suggest failure but otherwise use a pry bar and try to get it to move horizontally. It shouldn't.

 

Edited by GT4 Zed
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How did you replace the ball joint on the banana arm? Didn't think that was possible.

 

Sorry, I didn't. I replaced the whole arm. Bad wording on my part.

I meant to emphasise that every aspect of the banana arm was new to avoid confusion. And the arms were from Ewen and so I'm sure they were kosher.

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hmm that is a strange one I had my banana arms replaced with genuine nissan arms. Cured the problem instantly.

 

I did however have an aftermarket arm fitted when I bought the car and it was the issue, judging from the look of it aswell the fake arm was less than a year old and didnt last.

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Is the banana arm the same as the suspension arm?

 

I had a similar problem here: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/68596-clunking-on-passenger-front-wheel/#entry1021536

 

Mate that's not specific at all.

The banana arm is a suspension arm. The zed has 3 front suspension arms:

- a true wish bone upper control arm (UCA) which pivot with the spindle via a ball joint.

 

- 2 separate lower control arms(LCA):

A-The front LCA aka the translink arm because it's a true trailing arm and also carries the front shock.

B- The rear LCA aka compresion arm aka banana arm

This design was preferred for more road biased ride control as opposed to the double wishbone setup in racecars.

Both arms pivot with the chassis inboard and the spindle outboard via bushes and ball joints.

 

The advice from Alex and my addition is to check through all these bushes and ball joints for failure.

 

The banana arm is more comon to fail due multi-axis movement include compression. That bush/arm is poorly design and even Nissan knew this and changed the design in the 370z.

However it's not the only one that fails.

 

Rear arms bushes and ball joint(1) are less likely to fail but they do perish/shrink like any rubber bush.

 

You have to investigate throughly with the wheel loaded and unloaded with a pry bar where necessary. Sometimes you are lucky and it's obvious.

Edited by GT4 Zed
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