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How to - Oil & filter change guide


embrace

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Good afternoon all,

 

Just carried out my first oil & filter change on the zed so thought id take a few pics and post up a brief guide to show how its done. Its pretty easy as im sure most of you know but for those who havent done it before and would like to see what to expect then hopefully this will help.

 

Tools needed

 

14mm socket

Torque wrench (if possible)

Oil catch pan for waste oil

Oil filter wrench

Pz3 screw driver or I think 8mm socket

Jack, axel stands or ramps

plenty of old rags

latex gloves if you want to protect your hands

 

Materials needed

 

Good quality 5w30 fully synthetic oil (I use Fuchs Titan Race Pro from opie oils ) Always use a good quality oil if you can afford it go for an Ester based product as it clings to engine internals and protects better than cheaper stuff, a must i'd say for high performance engines.

 

New oil filter (I choose a K&N gold as there apparently high flow rate, but more so for the welded on nut on the end of the can which will make removal dead easy next time)

 

New copper crush washer (From ebay or nissan parts or mine was from Flex, cheers bud :thumbs:)

 

Thats all you should need i think!

 

Right here goes....

 

First i recommend you warm the engine up a little this will thin the oil down and make it run out easier, even though this pumps the oil round the engine, by the time youve jacked up and are ready to remove the drain plug i guess most of the oil will have ran back down anyway.

 

Then jack up the car

ramps.jpg

 

Once your happy its safe, get under the car and remove the splash guard (you will be able to see the oil filter and sump plug with this still in place, but i choose to remove it so theres plenty of work space and you dont spill any old oil all over it)

splashguard.jpg

 

Then you will have plenty of room and see the oil filter and drain plug

 

 

Remove the oil filler cap (this will help the oil flow out freely)

Then position your oil catch pan and remove the drain plug with the 14mm socket, once you have loosed it do it by hand and becare not to drop it in your catch pan otherwise you'll be fishing around in dirty oil for ages lol

oldfilter.jpg

oildrained.jpg

torquesumpbolt.jpg

 

Once your happy most of the oil is out, grab your filter wrench and remove the oil filter, again once its going do it by hand and becareful not to drop it otherwise this time you will splash oil all over your face :lol:

oldfilterremove.jpg

drain.jpg

 

Once every thing has stopped dripping give all the surfaces a clean, fit your new copper crush washer ensuring the nick is at the head of the bolt refit the drain plug (Torque to approx 30nM) you should feel the resistance of the copper washer crushing then once it has, it should go tight immediately.

washerfitted.jpg

 

 

Then fill your new oil filter with a little oil and rub some around the rubber seal, this helps prime the filter and ensure you get a snug fit! This threads on very easyily, if its stiff or feels tight becareful you have not cross threaded it. I think the recommended torques for this are approx 15nM but i normally hand tight plus half a rotation with a wrench is plenty.

newfilter.jpg

newfilterfitted.jpg

 

Give everything another clean and get your new oil ready for the engine. The zed de engines requires 4.75 litres i belive, so what I do is mark 4.25 litres on your new tub

mark.jpg

 

Then pour in a litre or two, then go check for any leaks so you dont waste any of your amber necta!

fillup.jpg

 

If your happy theres no leaks, continue filling till you hit your 4.25 litre mark. At this point im happy to run the car even though its not quite full. So if your happy to do so, go start the car and keep an eye on your oil pressure guage, it should go straight up to pressure after a second or 2 when the oil filter is full. If it does not turn off immediately and go check for leaks etc...

pressure.jpg

 

I left my car running for 5 minutes or so to let the oil heat up then had another check for leaks. Once happy you have no leaks, shut the engine off and refit your splash guard.

 

Then remove your jack and stand or ramps etc and park the car on a level surface.

 

Go have a cup of T for 5 minutes while all the oil settles back into the sump.

 

Finally check your dipstick and top up the remaining oil to id say just under the suggested 4.75 litres.

 

Hopefully thats job done!

Edited by embrace
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Just to clarify if anyone is using this as a guide; very few oil filters come with a nut type feature. The K&N shown has this to allow easy removal with a socket/spanner. You should never use a tool to tighten an oil filter. The manufacturers instructions are generally written on the side of the filter and will normally be something along the lines of: screw on until filter makes contact with face, screw a further half to three-quarters of a turn by hand . Tightening by hand plus a further half turn with a spanner is too much.

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Great stuff!

 

Regarding the filter. . Do you really onlu have to 'nip' this up by hand. Would havr thought it would drop off under vibration?

 

I've done mine by hand last 3 times, although last time I didnt remove undertray and it was a proper slag to get off. Forearm nearly exploded!

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Magnetic sump plug good idea. Cheers!

 

Re: the oil filter I say do it by hand till it feels tight, then I nip it up with the torque wrench to 10-15nM as per manufacturers instructions, which is normally half a turn max. Depends how strong you are by hand!

 

. But as suggested hand tight is normally enough, a little common sense is needed obviously, when you come to do it you can feel how tight it is :-)

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