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Dirty stinking bass, Under Strut Box Complete


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  • 2 weeks later...

What power you running mate?

 

the sub is 350w rms and the amp can churn out 400w rms, no clipping here. that's at 4ohms.

 

max power is something silly, 1400w peak for the sub, not sure what peak of ths amp is, but its higher lol.

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How well does your sub drop? I love the speed and punch of a 10 but just wish it would drop a little lower. I'm thinking i might try a more powerful sub and amp, but I doubt i'll see much of an improvement with this size and box combo.

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How well does your sub drop? I love the speed and punch of a 10 but just wish it would drop a little lower. I'm thinking i might try a more powerful sub and amp, but I doubt i'll see much of an improvement with this size and box combo.

 

A good 15" sub will be just as punchy as a 10".

 

Make sure your low passing about 80-60hz.

 

Also for it to go lower you would need a ported box port tuned to a low frequency.

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Ive previously (in my last 2 cars) had 2x 12 inch subs.

 

In the Celica I scrapped it (to save space) and went for 1x 10 inch sub and amp by Rockford Fosgate. Even at 300W this thing kicked hard (perhaps down to the quality of Rockford items), but it never had the proper low down rumble that a larger sub gives.

 

That's just the physics of the size of the sub I guess. Id say, for general listening, even if you like bass, 10 inch is plenty. If you want to really feel it, start at 12 inch, but really twin 12's or 15's are recommended.

Edited by cs2000
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I've had plenty of subs in the past and by far the best is the current JL 10w6v2, its running 500w rms from the JL 500/1 and sounds great ported or sealed. I use to run 2 pioneer 12's of a PG amp in the past and this 10" keeps up with them.

 

With it sealed its got a tighter sound with a slight loss in sound volume, its opened my eyes to having decent bass and not just loud thuddy bass. Wasnt cheap though, the sub was £300 and amp £400.

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  • 2 months later...

The Bose sub is open air and most aftermarket subs require a sealed or ported box. Also im not a fan of having that much bass behind the drivers seat.

 

The performance difference from say a JL W6 sub and the Bose sub is massive.

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  • 4 months later...

If you're making it yourself it shouldn't be too hard.

My advice would be to make cardboard templates first that fit under the strut brace (leave a small gap to accommodate acoustic material). Then use the templates to cut your MDF wood to size & shape. If you've got a hot glue gun that's an easy way to fix it all together whilst you trial fit the box (if it's wrong with the hot glue you can always heat it up with a hot air gun/hairdryer & dismantle it to re-size/shape it) ~ then add screws when your happy it's the correct size/shape.

 

Don't forget to cut the holes needed for your wiring, air port's or connector block prior to covering in acoustic clothe. Also you can get a nicer finish when you cover the entire box with clothe and slice with a stanley knife into the holes left (peal the clothe inwards & glue down if you get me).

 

 

You'll get more satisfaction from building it yourself anyway zubairhussain123. ;) Any problems just ask on here as most people are friendly & happy to help on this site I find. :thumbs:

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Yeah was planning on cardboard templating and then doing the woodwork. Hot glue gun is a brilliant idea - never would have thought of that! Will add that to my shopping list for tomorrow!

 

Cheers GMballistic!

 

Yeah I really like 350z-uk, most other forums I've peeked at seem to attack newbies with questions lol :boxing:

 

Will post progress tomorrow!

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