andlid Posted October 8, 2011 Share Posted October 8, 2011 Hey guys, Had issue with my battery (old one) thought it might have been gone since it didn't take a charge. Got a new battery, all happy days for a week, was going for a quick spin this morning (not to happen) battery dead, couldn't even open the door. Don't have any alarm and prior to work on my car the battery last forever. So in short I need to figure out what's draining my battery out. Hoping that the new battery hasn't got knackered now too. Did a quick charge earlier and stuck a solar battery charger on it for now. Could it be the new battery is crappy to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scubapics Posted October 8, 2011 Share Posted October 8, 2011 You could try using a current meter, pull out all the fuses, put them back one at a time to see which circuit is drawing power and how much. That might help narrow it down. Do this with the ignition off. Too much current will blow the fuse in your current meter / multimeter. Good luck. Have you fitted any thing recently or made any changes to the car? Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted October 8, 2011 Author Share Posted October 8, 2011 You could try using a current meter, pull out all the fuses, put them back one at a time to see which circuit is drawing power and how much. That might help narrow it down. Do this with the ignition off. Too much current will blow the fuse in your current meter / multimeter. Good luck. Have you fitted any thing recently or made any changes to the car? Jim good idea, just need to find that multimeter now (and figure out how to set it up) I've got a new engine fitted and a full APS TT kit... so really the harness has been out and put back in again... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted October 9, 2011 Author Share Posted October 9, 2011 Right found my multimeter only does 500ma so dont think its good enough for my need. If I get this correct I unplug the negative plug from the battery, stick the voltmeter on the cable on one side and onto the battery negative on the other. Having set the meter to DC 10A beforehand? Im ordering one that does 10A at the moment, what I can read this should help me find out what the heck is draining it. Im wondering if the alternator has gone bad too (shittly installed) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marzman Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 I'd have said alternator mate. Test that first... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted October 9, 2011 Author Share Posted October 9, 2011 I'd have said alternator mate. Test that first... Will be doing that tomorrow after I get enough juice in the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scubapics Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 Yup. I was wondering about alternator too. What's the voltage reading on the dials when the car is running? But you said the battery was completely flat and wouldn't even open the doors. That indicates to me that there is still a discharge to drain the battery. If the battery wasn't charging when engine running then normally the battery light would light up on the dash. Of course there is always a drain even when the ignition is off as you have certain circuits such as the alarm and central locking remote on as well as perhaps power to the ECU or whatever keeps the clock in check. You can connect the multimeter to either the negative or positive. If you ammeter is only rated to 10amps then start with just the 10amp circuits (or below) as indicated by the 10amp fuses. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted October 9, 2011 Author Share Posted October 9, 2011 Yup. I was wondering about alternator too. What's the voltage reading on the dials when the car is running? But you said the battery was completely flat and wouldn't even open the doors. That indicates to me that there is still a discharge to drain the battery. If the battery wasn't charging when engine running then normally the battery light would light up on the dash. Of course there is always a drain even when the ignition is off as you have certain circuits such as the alarm and central locking remote on as well as perhaps power to the ECU or whatever keeps the clock in check. You can connect the multimeter to either the negative or positive. If you ammeter is only rated to 10amps then start with just the 10amp circuits (or below) as indicated by the 10amp fuses. Jim when it was running the voltage was as normal over middle somewhere. (never took note of that really before I had problem) Im wondering if there is some light leaking somewhere, even a short of some sort. Will find out in the next few days. Surely there wouldnt be anything pulling more then 10amp while the car is turned off? Dont want to burn the new multimeter once I get it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scubapics Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 You're right. There shouldn't be anything using that kind of current with the ignition off. Even if there was, the worst that can happen to your multimeter should be a blown fuse. When running, I think the voltmeter on the dash should read about 14v. I'd have to check to be certain. Mine normally shows about three quarters across the dial - I think that's about 14v. Good luck. Sounds like you know what your plan is now. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted October 15, 2011 Author Share Posted October 15, 2011 Battery findings: Did my battery drain troubleshooting today, found out that the problem is the bloody boost controller here is what I did, stuck the newly freshly charged battery in, took my multimeter (Draper with 10A DC setting) and stuck it in parralell on the ground side of the battery (-) So with the booster plug out the display shown below : Plug into the boost controller: Took it back out and the multimeter now loooking like it's 0 Plugged back in the boost controller and ... Ok, so we know it's draining but is that a bad drain? Wouldn't think so... and not sure if it's 'loading' up and then will stop the drain, checked all the doors boot and lights intenrally etc and couldnt find any other peek in drainage. Ok, dropped it and went on to check the alternator. before car was started: When car started so all good there This is the meter from inside when turning the key currently: So ... is it the boost controlelr causing it to run down completely? Left it unplugged now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scubapics Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 I might be talking bollocks here but these are my thoughts. It's not unusual for a courtesy light left on overnight to flatten a battery. A 5W bulb will use 0.42amps so your boost is not far off that. I was just reading a web site about car batteries which said they are designed to provide high current for short periods rather than low current for long periods. You could always experiment with the battery out of the car and a bulb wired to it to see how long it lasts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted October 15, 2011 Author Share Posted October 15, 2011 I might be talking bollocks here but these are my thoughts. It's not unusual for a courtesy light left on overnight to flatten a battery. A 5W bulb will use 0.42amps so your boost is not far off that. I was just reading a web site about car batteries which said they are designed to provide high current for short periods rather than low current for long periods. You could always experiment with the battery out of the car and a bulb wired to it to see how long it lasts. hmm so best bet here would be to wire it into something that's not 'live' when car aint running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scubapics Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 Absolutely. If it doesn't need constant power then wire it to a circuit that's switched with the ignition. To do it properly you'd give it it's own fused circuit that's switched via the ignition using a relay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted October 15, 2011 Author Share Posted October 15, 2011 Absolutely. If it doesn't need constant power then wire it to a circuit that's switched with the ignition. To do it properly you'd give it it's own fused circuit that's switched via the ignition using a relay. tell me how and I'll make it so Its fused now at least though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 Via a relay from the ignition live ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted October 15, 2011 Author Share Posted October 15, 2011 Via a relay from the ignition live ? tell me means = DIY thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted October 26, 2011 Author Share Posted October 26, 2011 went out today to measure the coolant pipes diameter and the fecking door wouldn't open...battery gone again The BC has been unplugged and the car has been sitting for 1 week... and according to my tests they're nothing draining on the battery whilst car is off. And to make sure I had some sort of charge in it I got one of these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/AKT-Solar-Batte ... B0059U1B9K what the hell! HATE battery problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 How olds the Battery mate? Alarm???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted October 26, 2011 Author Share Posted October 26, 2011 How olds the Battery mate? Alarm???? battery=few months alarm=no Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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