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Quick question about drop links


sss107

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  • 3 months later...

Another quick one, I decided just to grease them up and that sorted the noise but the rear feels wobbly and doesnt feel as good in the bends. Would that be the drop links? Ive bought them anyway and will have fitted next week.

I guess my question is really, what do anti roll bar drop links do? :wacko:

 

Cheers

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Another quick one, I decided just to grease them up and that sorted the noise but the rear feels wobbly and doesnt feel as good in the bends. Would that be the drop links? Ive bought them anyway and will have fitted next week.

I guess my question is really, what do anti roll bar drop links do? :wacko:

 

Cheers

They connect the chassis to the anti-roll bar

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Say you turn into a left hander, your car leans to the right, the right spring compresses while the left spring extends.

The purpose of the ARB is to transfer some of the compression on the right spring to the left. In this moment the bar twists due to the way it is attached to the chassis and the suspension. The stiffer the ARB the more solidly the left and right sides are joined. With 100% stiffness the suspension would compress all together (if you hit a lump on the left wheel the right would compress the same amount).

 

The drop links connect the ARB to the suspension while some rubber mounts connect it to the chassis. The drop links have ball and socket joints on them to allow freedom of movement when the suspension moves. These joints eventually seize due to poor design and get "sticky", the click is them unsticking and moving. Greasing them just frees them up for a short period before whatever lubricant that was used dries up. The newer variants of the drop link have a much bigger seal round the ball and socket to keep the original lubricant in place, also the joint itself is twice as big to take more punishment. Make sure you get the latest ones from nissan not just some old used ones or you will be in the same situation when they wear in the same way.

 

Google Anti roll bars or "sway bars" if you want to understand it better than my brief and probably confusing explanation :)

 

 

 

Another quick one, I decided just to grease them up and that sorted the noise but the rear feels wobbly and doesnt feel as good in the bends. Would that be the drop links? Ive bought them anyway and will have fitted next week.

I guess my question is really, what do anti roll bar drop links do? :wacko:

 

Cheers

So unless the drop link has come off completely there shouldn't be any real performance difference and its probably in your head. Or you drove through the puddle of excess lubricant before you left the driveway :lol:

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If you want to get rid of the wobbliness then it will come down to what you really want the car to do ultimately............? Normal A to B driving, fast road handling, drifting, trackdays or importantly budget :p

 

Start with getting the newer droplinks to replace your worn DL(s). And if but there is still any issues, pinpoint it and decide on what is unsettling you most and address it logically. Tyres brand also have a big role to play as so does tyre pressure. So fiddle with this until you are happy by making 2psi changes at a time. Beware of el cheapo tyre :teeth: At this stage it is worth rechecking your alignment geometry too.

 

There are three common rear end issues with the zed; wobbliness, roll or wheel hop. That said the OEM zed is a very good handling car and well setup for normal driving in normal conditions.

 

As a rule:

 

- Adjustable ARBs will enable you to stiffness both ends of the axle and reduce roll.

 

- Lowering your COG will also reduce roll and improve handling. Options are lowering springs or coilovers.(Depending on how low the car is set to, you may need adjustable camber/toe arms to restore geometry. You may also need ajustable DLs.)

 

- Wobbliness/wheel hop at the rear is due to the soft squishy OEM suspension arm and subframe bushes. Swapping with urethane or solid bushes cures this.

 

- Geometry and set up of your mods are also very important and you can still have every suspension /handling mod but if its not set up right for your application or driving style, you will be unhappy.

 

Finally remember that if you address the rear so you must address the fronts, The more adjustablility you have helps but the more painful it is to find the sweet spot as any change in one area affects other areas.

 

Ultimately its just a question of how far do you want to go :p ...............???? Chassis bracing or roll cages etc

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Brilliant guys, thanks for that. Alot of good information there! As said, i'll get them done since i've now got them.

 

The car does to be honest, feels awful at the mom. Ive changed the 20's back to original 17's and that made a good difference. (I got them all balanced and alignment checked too) The drivers side 'banana bar' compression arm/suspension was replaced recently too and that also helped. The symptoms are difficult to explain, the car bounces on the road and I can feel every bump/road texture on roads. The car is no longer planted. Thought initially worn shocks or broken spring but all is fine. The problem is that there could be several causes. I'm def. not imagining it, i am used to sports cars and their firm ride (Last few cars were DC5 Type R, DC2, 330...)

 

Suggestions are happily received!!

 

Cheers again :)

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have had may Z for about 3 weeks and these appear to be the same problems that i am experiencing.

 

There seems to be too much body roll and the body roll is rather erratic. Also high speed stability and the feel of being planted are far from ok.

 

The crappy tyres that came on the car are coming off over the next few days as they too have terrible grip and give very little feedback. as well as being mismatching front to rear.

 

As described in some of the replies here, the ARB at the rear feels disconnected and doesnt seem to be having much affect on the suspension at all so i suspect i may have the worn drop-link problem. There appears to be no servicing carrried out in this area on the cars history so i guess it will be a good place to start.

 

This thread has been very helpful :thumbs:

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Took the car to the garage for alignment but they couldn't do it because of state of the suspension.The following parts are needing replaced:

 

*NSF & OSF Front Lower Ball Joints

*NSF & OSF Tie Rod End

*NSF End Rack

 

Hopefully this might help. I have'nt fitted the parts yet but will do next week. I'll let you know if it solves my issues - car is rubbish to drive and can't wait for it to be sorted! :thumbs:

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