maz77 Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 this is the result of my first real attempt at cleaning the zed. some Megs gold shampoo dry Megs clay kit Megs gold shampoo Aotuglym polish unfortunately I ran out of time to wax the car but hoping next attempt would include wax and sealant. buy the way, advice on sealant for azure paint would be much appreciated. this is the clay bar after just one door thanks for looking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbiscuit Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 if you clay bar you must polish it after and you must wax as well. no wax means your not putting back the moisture the paint needs and your leaving the paint un protected. polish isn't enough on its own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maz77 Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 if you clay bar you must polish it after and you must wax as well. no wax means your not putting back the moisture the paint needs and your leaving the paint un protected. polish isn't enough on its own. I am planning on waxing it 2moro as I am working for the rest of the day. thanks for pointing that out bud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brummybird Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 Nice car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbiscuit Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 if you clay bar you must polish it after and you must wax as well. no wax means your not putting back the moisture the paint needs and your leaving the paint un protected. polish isn't enough on its own. I am planning on waxing it 2moro as I am working for the rest of the day. thanks for pointing that out bud sorry if it sounded like i was telling you off, or if i stated the bloody obvious and you already knew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maz77 Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 sorry if it sounded like i was telling you off, or if i stated the bloody obvious and you already knew its cool bud. input is always appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M13KYF Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 very nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sally Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 Nice coloured Z!! Shiney too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinmac Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 Lovely job bud, waxing is the best bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M350ZB Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 looking very good maz, will have to sort a cleaning day out after everyones hols, zed looking great bud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maz77 Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 looking very good maz, will have to sort a cleaning day out after everyones hols, zed looking great bud sounds good mark. let us know when your back from your holiday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pimm Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 Looking great mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIXXERUK Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 VERY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clenz Ltd Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 if you clay bar you must polish it after and you must wax as well. no wax means your not putting back the moisture the paint needs and your leaving the paint un protected. polish isn't enough on its own. I'd agree that you are best off waxing or sealing after but why the need to polish? Can't think of any reason why you would need to unless you had marred the paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clenz Ltd Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 Re OP sealant query. Jetseal 109 or Glisten MkV will both be suitable - I've never found sealants to be colour sensitive TBH. Lay down either sealant and leave a day or so to completely cure (will cure much faster if machine applied) and then coat with your favourite wax, Your clay has a lot of tar in it - tar is a pretty gritty product and clay removing it will generally mar the surface. Esp' if the car is badly tarred. This is fine if machine polishing is to follow. However, a better removal method is a bespoke tar & glue remover - this will very quickly enable you to remove tar in a much safer manner. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbiscuit Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 if you clay bar you must polish it after and you must wax as well. no wax means your not putting back the moisture the paint needs and your leaving the paint un protected. polish isn't enough on its own. I'd agree that you are best off waxing or sealing after but why the need to polish? Can't think of any reason why you would need to unless you had marred the paint. i was always told if your cleaning normally you only need to wax after a wash, but if your using a claybar that you should always polish after clay, but before wax. have i got my methodology all wrong? i'm fairly new to Detailing so don't profess to be any kind of an expert, i just do as i'm told Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maz77 Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 i was always told if your cleaning normally you only need to wax after a wash, but if your using a claybar that you should always polish after clay, but before wax. +1. I have to mention that the tar only came up after I got to the skirt. the paint isn't marred at all. maybe nick can shed some light here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clenz Ltd Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 Re: polishing after claying. This is not needed unless the paint has been marred. After you have finished claying you have a very clean surface albeit covered with lube and small particles of suspended crud. Once this is removed then the surface is ready for an immediate application of wax or sealant which will benefit from the clean surface re adhesion. Maybe something has got muddled in translation ie the usual steps would be clay, polish and then wax but the polish process is not a necessity. Clear as mud? There is a danger in removing anything with clay, be it tar, tree sap or fallout. Small particles are easily pulled off the paint and into the clay but occasionally a larger particle may give rise to a nasty 'squeal' which = a scratch in progress. Unless I am correcting after I prefer to use a solvent to minimise this risk. Second reason I don't like removing tar with clay is that to remove difficult deposits requires an amount of 'scrubbing' - this pretty much always mars. Often visible as a dulled patch in daylight and def' visible under a Brinkmann. The extent of this will depend on paint hardness, aggresiveness of clay and sensitivity of the user! I've used a mild clay (pre-correction) and have marred removing very hard deposits of tree sap. Maybe I'm not sensitive! Clay - good stuff but needs a bit of care. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maz77 Posted July 8, 2009 Author Share Posted July 8, 2009 Re: polishing after claying. This is not needed unless the paint has been marred. After you have finished claying you have a very clean surface albeit covered with lube and small particles of suspended crud. Once this is removed then the surface is ready for an immediate application of wax or sealant which will benefit from the clean surface re adhesion. Maybe something has got muddled in translation ie the usual steps would be clay, polish and then wax but the polish process is not a necessity. Clear as mud? There is a danger in removing anything with clay, be it tar, tree sap or fallout. Small particles are easily pulled off the paint and into the clay but occasionally a larger particle may give rise to a nasty 'squeal' which = a scratch in progress. Unless I am correcting after I prefer to use a solvent to minimise this risk. Second reason I don't like removing tar with clay is that to remove difficult deposits requires an amount of 'scrubbing' - this pretty much always mars. Often visible as a dulled patch in daylight and def' visible under a Brinkmann. The extent of this will depend on paint hardness, aggresiveness of clay and sensitivity of the user! I've used a mild clay (pre-correction) and have marred removing very hard deposits of tree sap. Maybe I'm not sensitive! Clay - good stuff but needs a bit of care. cheers nick. info much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M350ZB Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 Allways good to hear some tips from the top guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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