My Winter project 350z engine rebuild

[Cosmic73]

9 hours ago, ZMANALEX said:

Are you removing the engine?

 

If so the PAS pump can be left on the engine.

 

Disconnecting and reconnecting the main loom from the engine will add 4 hours to the job.

 

Coolant tube below showing fixing points.

 

Cheers mate. I didn't realise there's a hidden 12mm bolt that fixes the tube flange to the housing. Got that unscrewed and the tube came straight out.

I also didn't realise the PS can slide sideways out it's bracket which I've also done.

No, I'm not taking the engine out, there's no room in my garage for a lift. I'm simply stripping it down from top to bottom. It's how I've rebuilt all my previous project car engines.

 

 

[ZMANALEX]

In that case, you will have to drop the gearbox to get the crank out.

 

Also, you can drop the engine and gearbox downwards with the cross member and suspension as one unit, so a good trolly jack would be your friend.

[Cosmic73]

On 22/10/2023 at 17:31, ZMANALEX said:

 

 

[Cosmic73]

Got the wiring loom fully disconnected and pulled out the way of the engine, alternater removed, PS bracket removed.

Next job is to remove the rocker covers and the timing case.

 

[davey_83]

Nice work, I can also recommend a lightweight crank pulley while you down there too - very noticeable gains in engine pick up throughout the rev range and driveability. 

 

 

 

[Cosmic73]

22 minutes ago, davey_83 said:

Nice work, I can also recommend a lightweight crank pulley while you down there too - very noticeable gains in engine pick up throughout the rev range and driveability. 

 

 

 

Thanks Dave, I really enjoyed the vid. My current pulley is well rusted (as are the idlers etc) so I'll be looking to replace the whole lot

[Cosmic73]

This evening I removed the rocker covers and timing chain covers, yah,

[Cosmic73]

This weekend I tried to undo the crack bolt and it won't budge. Even after liberal amounts of wd40 and bouncing on the end of my breaker bar (I'm 15stone) it ain't moving.

I've ordered a new 1000mm long breaker which is more than twice the length of my current one so I hope that bad boy does the job.

In the meantime I've removed the heat shields which was a pig of a job. 3 screws rounded their heads so I had to use moler grips.

I've also undone all the exhaust manifold nuts ready for the heads to come off.

 

[ZMANALEX]

The best way to get the crank pulley bolt off is to use a breaker bar and socket and jam against the front chassis leg and flick the ignition key, however, I guess that it is a bit late for that now as you have disconnected the electrics.

 

So if it is really tight then you will have to lock the flywheel and the bolt should come loose using a good breaker bar and good socket.

 

Otherwise, attack from the front using a powerful impact gun and impact socket.

[davey_83]

The video above showed a good technique 

[Cosmic73]

I've watched the video, it's just my breaker bar doesn't look as long as yours. Mine is only something like 40cm which is why i've ordered a 1m bar. 😈

[Cosmic73]

10 hours ago, ZMANALEX said:

The best way to get the crank pulley bolt off is to use a breaker bar and socket and jam against the front chassis leg and flick the ignition key, however, I guess that it is a bit late for that now as you have disconnected the electrics.

 

So if it is really tight then you will have to lock the flywheel and the bolt should come loose using a good breaker bar and good socket.

 

Otherwise, attack from the front using a powerful impact gun and impact socket.

 

Yeah, it's too late to let the ignition do the work, but next time i'll remember to do that first

I have removed the starter motor and jammed in a crow bar but the problem is;  i just can't get enough leverage on my little 40cm bar.

Yep, definitely agree about a good breaker bar. This 1m long beast I've ordered should shift it 😈

[Cosmic73]

This flywheel bolt is being a right pain.

I managed to lock the flywheel using a nut and bolt;

 

My 1m long bad boy breaker bar definitely provides enough leverage

 

But the socket simply split open.

I assume I need a much stronger impact type socket?

[davey_83]

Damn!!!!!

[Cosmic73]

I bought an impact socket from Halfords and the crank bolt cracked straight off, happy days.

 

I'm now struggling to get the front timing cover off, because the 2x steel dowels are too tight and rusted. I'll get some heat into them tomorrow and see if that loosens then up 🙂

[davey_83]

Well done fella, proper socket was needed 

[Cosmic73]

It's been raining all day which means i can spend a good day in the garage and it's been very productive.

I've now removed the cam sprockets, chains and half way through removing the cam carriers.

Tomorrow's job week be to remove the rear timing housing. 🙂

[Cosmic73]

Timing housing is stuck fast so I reckon it's going to take a while to slice thro the joint. Been using a butter knife but I might try a feeler gauge tomorrow.

However, cams etc are all removed.

[davey_83]

Flying fella, keep it going 💪🏼

[Cosmic73]

So far the work shop manual has been great. Very clear and easy to follow.

However, I realised that you and remove the rear timing housing until you also remove 2 hidden bolts from under it. These aren't shown in the manual.

One is here on the outside,

 

And one is here in the sump,

 

Then the rear housing came straight off!

 

[Cosmic73]

My heads are now off. I'll remove the valves, get them soda blasted and pressure test and skim the heads.

 

[Cosmic73]

I've got a difficult choice. Do I now,

1. Lift the block out? or

2. Remove the subframe and drop the block?

Since the subframe is quite rusty and could do with a refurb, I thought I'd remove it, get it blasted and powder coated.

I managed to remove the brace today. Thank the lord for my breaker bar 🙏🙏

 

 

But not sure how to remove the subframe. Anyone done this before?

[Cosmic73]

This evening I managed to remove the valves which I'll take to get soda blasted tomorrow.

I'll also drop off the heads at Knights engineering for pressure test and if all ok, a skim.

[ShortPaul]

2 hours ago, Cosmic73 said:

This evening I managed to remove the valves which I'll take to get soda blasted tomorrow.

I'll also drop off the heads at Knights engineering for pressure test and if all ok, a skim.

Happy days 

[Cosmic73]

On 12/11/2023 at 18:07, Cosmic73 said:

I've got a difficult choice. Do I now,

1. Lift the block out? or

2. Remove the subframe and drop the block?

Since the subframe is quite rusty and could do with a refurb, I thought I'd remove it, get it blasted and powder coated.

I managed to remove the brace today. Thank the lord for my breaker bar 🙏🙏

 

 

But not sure how to remove the subframe. Anyone done this before?

 

This evening I started removing the front subframe to realise the block can't be lowered because the steering rack is in the way, which means I'll have to lift the block up and out instead.

Not the end of the world, but just pain to set up the lift 😞