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michaelgordon

Need help with wiring amp kit & reverse camera

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Hi all

 

I could do with some help with wiring.

 

I want to put new amp, sub and speakers in, already have the headunit previously fitted.  I know i need a wiring kit for power and ignition turn on plus other bits in some i have seen but looking round there are so many, any recommendations?  I dont want anything too powerful in terms of sub.  Im going to get some bog standard OFC speaker cable unless there is recommendations for this.

 

Ill need to do it in stages as ive spent all my money on interior and mechanical but i want to do the wiring in one hit, as long as the end is taped and secured & not connected to the battery i assume the cable will be ok sitting in the engine bay (not connected to the fuse either) and the ignition wire will be ok to hookup and leave taped in the glove box?

 

I also have a reverse camera to install while the dash is out, i can wire up to the cable on HU for the reverse switch but my question on this is, i have a reverse sensor buzzer that is exposed and when i go into reverse it gives a beep, im presuming this is then powered.  Can i splice into this rather than the actual  reverse light cable as it will be much easier for power and reverse switch? 

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I've installed a full system in my car a few months ago so may be able to help.

 

Firstly wiring - I'd recommend using at least 16-guage.  I used this Amazon basics stuff which does a good job.  You'll also need an amp wiring kit which you can pick up from Halfords.

 

I've installed my amp in the glove box behind the passenger seat.  You'll have to pull out all of the interior trim but you can then run new speaker wires fairly easily.

 

You might struggle with running new speaker wires to the doors, as you've got to drill through the molex connectors on both sides.  It's actually not that bad but the first time you drill into it is quite worrying.  

 

You'll also need speaker spacers as most new speakers won't clear the front windows.  I made mine up out of MDF using one of the old speakers as a template.  You have to destroy the speaker to make it usable as a template, I've still got my old template if you want it for free.

 

The cables should be fine if you wrap them up well in electrical tape, but I'd avoid attaching the live to the battery until you actually intend to attach it to your amp.

 

Yes the reverse camera can be run of the rear buzzer.

 

If you need any help give me a shout.

 

 

 

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Did mine a couple of years ago, and agree with the above. :thumbs:

 

Only minor differences from what I did:

1) Installed my amp behind the driver's seat - knocked up a bracket / shelf that hangs off the LHD glovebox mounts.

2) Grabbed some Nissan Micra speaker adaptors (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B072HSN162) to mount my door speakers - that was enough for them to clear the windows, but I guess that's pretty dependent on the speakers you're using.

3) Massively over spec'd my power cabling...

 

As for a sub, after a failed attempt to bodge the OEM Bose one in, I grabbed one of these https://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-alpine-car-audio-systems-pwe-s8_p-33197.htm which is now behind the driver's seat with the amp.

 

Haven't got a reverse camera, or sensors, but what you're suggesting makes sense to me.

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cheers guys, really helpful.  I was just going to run new cable through the door grommet, dont want to be doing any drilling!

 

For the sub power, can i splice into the amp power cable so only have one cable going to battery?  Speaking of this is there a grommet in the firewall or by the battery to get into the car itself?

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IIRC, the plugs to the doors basically fill the cutouts in the body - so the only way through is to drill out unused parts of the plugs.

 

Yep, just splicing into main power cable for the sub is fine - just make sure you get something that can handle the amp + sub power draw. And an appropriate fuse, of course. For mine i did get a terminal post, and some ring crimps - just so if ever needed either the amp or sub can be easily removed.

 

There is a massive bunch of wires that go into the car through the firewall behind the battery... Sort of just below the bottom passenger corner of the windscreen. Just make a little cut in that, should be able to feed the power cable through, and it'll drop into the passenger footwell. Can then route it behind the kick panel, and along under the carpet to the back. There's a load of factory cabling down there you can follow.

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5 hours ago, michaelgordon said:

cheers guys, really helpful.  I was just going to run new cable through the door grommet, dont want to be doing any drilling!

 

For the sub power, can i splice into the amp power cable so only have one cable going to battery?  Speaking of this is there a grommet in the firewall or by the battery to get into the car itself?

Are you planning on running an active sub then and the amp just for the front and rear speakers? If not, then the sub is just powered by your amp speaker wires.  

If you are, then I wouldn't splice but would instead buy some kind of splitter that does the job for you.

 

As Ben said, routing through the firewall is very easy.  I've done it on a couple of other cars which were an absolute nightmare, the Zed is as easy as it gets.

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6 hours ago, Kryptek49 said:

Are you planning on running an active sub then and the amp just for the front and rear speakers? If not, then the sub is just powered by your amp speaker wires.  

I honestly dont know what im doing.  I want to use Hertz 165 speakers which are 4ohm 75w so im presuming i need a 4 channel amp with a min of this continuous power to run the speakers.  I want to use both front & rear but do want a sub. 

 

My idea was to use a third set or RCAs from the HU sub out to an active sub and run a second ignition & power but ill use a splitter now, Id rather not run another power & ignition cable, do i need a 5 channel amp for this?  Then get some more RCAs to the amp and smip cabled to connect to amp?

 

I havent done anything like this before, only really upgraded a set of speakers with a harness that used original cabling.

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Don't worry this was my first proper install as well.  Where are you based? If you're local to me I might be able to help.

 

Running an active sub is not a problem at all, it's definitely the easier way of doing it.  I bought a pre-made sub box that fits in the existing sub location from a member on here, I'm not happy with how the sub sounds though so will need to pull everything out and check it all over again.

 

I'm using a 4 channel amp currently.  2 channels for the front 2 speakers, and bridging the other 2 for the sub-woofer.  Most people don't bother with rear speakers in these cars and just use a set of components up front (speaker + separate tweeter).  

 

If you were to run front & rear + an active sub, you would only need a 4 channel amp.  I like Ben's idea of installing it inside the drivers seat cubby so you don't lose any storage.

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6 minutes ago, Kryptek49 said:

If you were to run front & rear + an active sub, you would only need a 4 channel amp

That's exactly the setup I have. Did the 4 speakers and the amp first, then added the active sub later.

 

Both my sub and amp are hooked up to the same remote wire from the HU (using good old chocky block), and to a beast power cable coming down from the battery (m6 bolt encased in plastic). Have 5 RCAs Front L+R, Rear L+R & Sub running back there (only mono sub, as I didn't have another pair long enough). So what you want to do should be just fine.

 

Correct with amp power, at least what the speakers can handle -  a little more shouldn't cause a problem.

 

It's also worth running any other cables you might want down there at the same time e.g. I have a USB cable in from the HU to the little cubby between the seats.

 

8 minutes ago, Kryptek49 said:

I bought a pre-made sub box that fits in the existing sub location from a member on here, I'm not happy with how the sub sounds though so will need to pull everything out and check it all over again.

Have you checked it's not out of phase with your main speakers? Mine sounded pretty awful when I had that wrong... Should be a thing on your HU to invert it.

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cheers guys, im a bit more clued up.  Im going to go the 4 channell & active sub route as i dont want to mess with a box and hopefully get it in the drivers side where the bose sub is now.  With the splitter blocks for power & ground and splice into the ignition wire. 

 

One last question, with an active sub, im guessing i only need the RCA cables in as the amp is built in it will just work (with power ect cable attached)  

 

Cheers for the links for the bits and the help.  Just need to find the amp & sub now.

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An active sub is basically just a sub with an amp stuck to the side, so it requires all the same cables as a regular amp.

 

RCA's, Power, Ground & Remote.

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