michaelgordon

I am selling my Stealth Carbon fighter steering wheel, D1 quick release kit and NRG wheel hub. I got bored with the carbon look and have gone back to original wheel. All the hardware bolts, wiring ECT us included but nothing boxed. I also have a bracket that will relocate the stereo and cruise control sections. Looking for £400 collected from Manchester or can post.

Im looking into replacing the front banana arms & lower control arms possibly the ball joints as well. As they are not adjustable and i just want standard rubber bushing as poly i think would make the ride to stiff and i want to be comfy. Would the generic parts be ok from ebay, from a trusted seller? Ill be getting adjustable upper control arms for the front and rekon i can do most of it on jacks apart from the ball joints which ill be looking into.

Hi I'm after a 350z HR power steering pump. Been advised my heavy steering is likely to have been caused by a failing pump. Thanks

Nothing too noticeable really. I did this quite soon after getting it so wasn't really used the the feel. The way I looked at it was that it can't really do any harm. I only did it as in my last car there really was an improvement everything just felt smoother.

i know its been a while for this thread but im seriously considering the street basis coilovers rather than new shocks and the tein lowering springs. Any updates to how these have performed? Same sort of situation as in i will not be track just road and after a bit more comfort

i like to bump a really old thread. How are / were these over time? Im thinking of getting these rather than new shocks and the tein lowering springs all round, these are a bit cheaper. im in a similar boat dont track and dont want to sacrifice too much comfort which is important to me. want to go 15-20 mm lower set and forget it.

Any intact or new front part of the front arch liners for sale, both sides? The bit that covers the headlights. Both the bits that hold the tray on have disintegrated. Seen cheap ebay ones but only upto 05. Nissan want £48 each so looking to see if someone can really beat that.

Year old thread bump. Did the DA230 fit properly? I have the 120 and looking to upgrade the the 230 but pioneer specs say a 6.2 inch screen on the 120 but the 230 having a 7 inch screen.

Cheers, really appreciate all the help. I'll be honest, I was not expecting as good a result as I got. There is orange peel but only slightly I've had much worse when painting stuff before and was a scary thought doing it but the way I'm looking at it is. Is it a professional body shop standard - No, probably not even close. Does it look better than it did - Yes definitely all my spots from factory primer or the white undercoat that were showing through have gone the marks and scratches in the bumper after filling are gone and the result is better than expected. Would I do it again - Definitely, considering I was quoted £600 for a bumper and bonnet at a body shop I'm managed to do the bumper for about £30 and a few hours work I have something that hopefully when polished unless really scrutinised will look great, it all ready looks very good just a bit dull.

i got the das6 pro cant believe the price of some of them. Im a weekend warrior at best. ive also sprayed paint and lacquered the front bumper and roof side panels. How long am i best waiting before polishing them? used proper auto colour match paint and 1k lacquer. i know not to wax them for about a month but not sure on polish. Am i best wet sanding with 3000 grit before polishing as well? I was hoping to do the stone chips tomorrow, polish the sprayed panels Friday the do a full polish next weekend to do the bonnet and rest of the car to get all the chips polished out..

Cheers guys. I've machined polished before but realised my technique was poor, after watching a lot of videos, i was going too quick and not doing enough passes, with poor pads as well. Ive learnt my lesson, as punishment i think ill have to invest in a new polisher.

@ilogikal1 Have another quick question for you. I decided to repair the stone chips and have done all the prep just waiting on the paint, i sanded the chips with 3000 grit paper to get them ready and when painted and cleared will wet sand again with 3000 grit to level off. From what ive read i need a medium cut polish to best get the scratches out, ive not bought the scholl polish yet, will the S20 and the tangerine pad be able to get these sanding marks out? or is there a better option? im already set on doing a 2 stage with the s20 & s30 and Ill be using my Argos xtreme da with a 5" plate unless either a das 6 v2 or pro would be that much better.

How are people finding the excide batteries? Mine needs replacing, its this or the Bosch S5? Worth the extra £20 for the bosch

Will do thanks, im going to check and clean at weekend see if that resolves the problem.

Massive thread bump, i think my sensor has gone, how has this lasted? Nissan have quoted £130 for a new one

cheers guys. Really helpful as usual. Dont suppose either of you could recommend a place to get a colour coded pen from? Got a couple marks that would be too expensive to get sorted just noticeable, ill be getting bonnet, bumper and side roof bits resprayed as there is not diy solution for that.

Cheers. I was going with auto wash for shampoo but if either of those two are better ill look into them, always forget tar remover. i cant work inside unfortunately so a lot of the things that need a proper cure are out. I had sealed the wheels with an alloy sealer & wax EZ wheel armour & RIM but i was not impressed so will be doing the wheels properly, off and fully protect as can do that indoors, was planning on using gtechniq C5 after a full decontamination. Unless you know about a different product. When i actually do get round to doing a polish which will likely be next year now the weather has started to turn, i was going to use Menzerna or 3M compounds but have seen the Scholl recommended more than once. Will be doing it with a DA, used on previous cars with good results using only ultimate compound & ultimate polish but paintwork on this car needs sorting on bonnet and bumper before so its a little pointless at the moment as they are both really bad. For the glass i was going to do a gtechniq G1 (i think) and use their cleaner and polish to prep it. Cure time dosent seem to bad so can do outside. Unless you know about a different product. Again, always forget tyre dressing, ill give that a go. For interior i generally use APC (will be surfex) and then a dressing, EZ Sleek smells nice i like it. could do with a good leather cleaner, its painted so no use for a conditioner. What do you mean metalwork? Engine bay i never really worry about. APC every few months but not too fussed about it gleaming. I was going to do a separate post but can i ask. Grit guards, i never used them until this car as knowing i wouldnt polish for a while wanted to eep it as best i coul but ive gone through two wash mits using them, one 5 years old and never shown sines of use yet three or four washes with the guards and has holes. A big mitt did the same after maybe 8-10. Not being aggressive just up and down motions to free up anything trapped, am i doing anything wrong. I was never a convert of the trwo buckets either until i actually tried it and saw the colour of the rinse bucket. Sorry about all the Questions but handy to ask someone who know what they are actually takilng about

I would like to think i know a little about detailing and have been using EZ Car Care for a couple of years now. I generally like their products but i want to up my game a little. Taking quite a lot from the forensic detailing channel im going to be moving to Bilt Hamber Autofoam for snowfoam, Surfex HD for APC and AutoWash for shampoo and their medium clay bar as they seem to come out very good on the best of videos, and price seems very good. If anyone could help with a pre-wash, currently use EZ Citrus Spray sealant, currently have EZ Fusion & Deflector shield depending on wash im doing. For a proper sealant i use EZ Granite and TBH unless there is something amazing i do really like this. Glaze? Im not sure i really need this? Fallout remover, Currently use EZ Reigning Iron was thinking Bilt Hamber korrosol LSP / Sealant remover, currently EZ Reset Panel wipe? This seems to be a marmite use IPA / dont use IPA? Wheel cleaner, use EZ Viper and its quite good Wax, i really like the EZ ceramic wax so again unless there is something amazing ill stick with this, same for quick detailer EZ Gloss Boss & Voodoo do a great job. Have i missed something?

Yes, i think im happy now, have been gradually turned the gain and boost down so it better matches the speaker volume. Turned the crossovers off for everything it just didn't sound right. The sub volume on the HU is set to 8/10 and this is giving a nice thump without being overly loud or drowning out. Could possibly do with a little more lowering as mids are a little in the background. Had to turn the rear volume to -2 and fronts to +4 It was previously 0s and way too much rear and before the sub they were -3 +5 so a little playing with this as well for right balance and a bit more overall volume. I may start playing with the crossovers not i think ive got it balanced. Like you said above, took a little experimenting to get there.

Cheers again Ben. I was having a play with it yesterday. Had to turn the sub speaker level up on the HU and its about there. Think with that its a bit too loud so will look to tunr the gain and bass boost down a bit. Ill have a go at the crossovers today ithink when its washed and cleaned.

I looked round and on the american site for a guide to put an earthing kit into my Hr and while there were a few for DE they were not suitable so i decided to just do it. I used the Stillen install instructions as a base line but as they are american, the battery is on the wrong side so guessed really. Not completely sure I've done it right but car starts so i don't think I've messed any thing up. If anyone has any suggestions or can point out where i may have gone wrong please comment and let me know. I did clean the paint from any parts of the chassis that made contact. Cant say ive noticed a different on the volt meter either at ignition or with engine running. Not driven it yet so cant comment on idle, smoothness or increased electrical efficiency, to bright for headlights yet which has been reported as improving from other threads and topics i read. First pic, overall finished showing most the connection. First - There is a threaded hole just behind the washer fluid cap. This was a bit of a pain due to location but it eventually went in. From here this cable routes to the engine block. Second - The first cable from threaded hole into engine block & a second cable from engine block to lower earth point on block. Third - You can see the cable going to the lower earthing point from the block above. The third cable goes from the upper earthing point, not the top one but the one in the middle of this pic to the bottom threaded hole next to the intake. Fourth - The cable in the bottom threaded hole from the middle earthing point from previous picture. Also from the previous pic the Top earth point cable goes to a bolt under the air con tap, this can be seen better in the next pic. Fifth - Pic showing cable from top earth point to bolt by air con cap. There is then a cable from this to the top threaded hole in previous pic. Sixth - I put two extra from the current battery earth point to battery, there is also a cable running from the chassis connector to the top threaded hole in pic 5, this ran under the wiring loom foam block.

I do have another post but that was more about the install in general. I got that all sorted and have but a Fli Active Trap 10" sub in the boot but having an issue tuning it. I have it to a point that it seems to blend with the rest of the speakers but its lacking punch, id like to feel it more i can turn the sub level up in the head unit settings and it does punch then but id prefer if possible to do it via gain and bass boost. Am i doing the right thing? I have a pioneer sph-da120 headunit, pioneer 8704 amp and hertz K & X 165 speakers. Should i be changing the crossover settings on the headunit? They are all off. The pioneer amp is set correctly as it matches the headunit it has its own setting and sounds really good. I just want to get everything sounding as good.

Hi @Kryptek49 & @Ben-350z Just like to thank you guys again. I have installed all my speakers and amp and sounds great, had it in for a couple weeks and cant believe the difference. Adding a Sub this weekend and will have a complete system then. Dont this i could have done it without your help.

cheers guys, im a bit more clued up. Im going to go the 4 channell & active sub route as i dont want to mess with a box and hopefully get it in the drivers side where the bose sub is now. With the splitter blocks for power & ground and splice into the ignition wire. One last question, with an active sub, im guessing i only need the RCA cables in as the amp is built in it will just work (with power ect cable attached) Cheers for the links for the bits and the help. Just need to find the amp & sub now.

I honestly dont know what im doing. I want to use Hertz 165 speakers which are 4ohm 75w so im presuming i need a 4 channel amp with a min of this continuous power to run the speakers. I want to use both front & rear but do want a sub. My idea was to use a third set or RCAs from the HU sub out to an active sub and run a second ignition & power but ill use a splitter now, Id rather not run another power & ignition cable, do i need a 5 channel amp for this? Then get some more RCAs to the amp and smip cabled to connect to amp? I havent done anything like this before, only really upgraded a set of speakers with a harness that used original cabling.