blindbandit Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 My zeds getting high in the miles and I the next 10,000 will be the hardest yet as it's getting tracked and drifted. It's had a good service history and I've just replaced diff, gear box and engine oil and filters. My question is to you guys that know this engine well, what engine components should I look at replacing/upgrading or maintenance should I carry out to stave off bhp loss. Any top tips much appreciated Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Bradders- Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 (edited) No help but mine went bang at 135k lol Edited December 28, 2016 by -Bradders- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetpilot Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 Not much you can do except use a decent quality oil and keep a check on the level and follow the service schedule. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mopedmark Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 Sounds like your doing the right stuff, timing chain is biggy, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 Timing chain, water pump would be what I'd be doing engine wise. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocket_Rabbit Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 The only way you'll know what needs doing is stripping the engine down. Do a compression test on all cylinders followed by a leakdown test should you be inclined. Beyond that, you are 'hoping' for the best. We stripped down an F20C (from an S2000) the other month and it threw a rod. We sent the rod off for analysis. It failed from prolonged stress overload caused my a tiny machining imperfection in an oil jet going through the rod. By tiny we are talking about a 1mm diameter hole with a slight scratch, probably caused by a bit of swarf stuck in the drill. It's these type of issues that can cause the discrepancy between engines going bang at 100k or still running fine at 200k 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blindbandit Posted December 30, 2016 Author Share Posted December 30, 2016 Cheers for your replies, I'll check through the service history to check when timing belt was changed, and I've been after a compression tester for a while so it's a good excuse. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 Do not waste your time or money on compression tests or timing chain chain replacement. The best preventative measures in this instance is to use a good quality engine oil and service regularly, together with very regular dip stick checks on the engine oil level. At 135k miles there is bound to be wear and tear present, so chains and low compression issues should only be dealt with as and when they happen, which might be never. However, if the engine eventually does go pop, then just drop in a known pre-owned engine from a known and reputable seller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocket_Rabbit Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 Do not waste your time or money on compression tests or timing chain chain replacement. The best preventative measures in this instance is to use a good quality engine oil and service regularly, together with very regular dip stick checks on the engine oil level. At 135k miles there is bound to be wear and tear present, so chains and low compression issues should only be dealt with as and when they happen, which might be never. However, if the engine eventually does go pop, then just drop in a known pre-owned engine from a known and reputable seller. A contradiction really. Yeah, servicing your car goes without saying, but it doesn't make your engine invincible. I would ask what's a good quality oil, but I'm sure I get some Opie Oils BS regurgitated and thrown back! Don't bother with a compression test? Well, why not? You should bother with a comp test as it will give you an indication as to an aspect of engine health. So should the results of a compression test come back with good numbers, you are eliminating variables. Like I said, the only way to truly know how you engine is, health wise, is to strip it down and measure off. Bores, rings, valve stems, guides etc. Whilst you had the engine stripped, you replace the chains, water pump, rings, big end and main shells, possibly oil pump. Beyond that, you'd ideally get some NDT performed on the rods as, with an NA engine, the rods experience massive alternating compression/tensile forces. As you might expect, the cost can mount up quickly, but if you want to know... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 I think that you may find that the OP is looking for preventative options to actually avoid an expensive engine build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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