veilside z Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 That's bad. I feel for you buddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snjur Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 Mine was going quite high with gauge almost 2mm from final yellow top mark few times when i had issue with radiator but my gasket didn't blew up. I reckon it must go really over in red Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bytespc Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 I'm sorry if this is a dumb comment but why cant you just replace the blown gaskets ?, or did your continued driving before taking it back to Jez warp the heads ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryHippo Posted July 23, 2016 Author Share Posted July 23, 2016 That's what I thought I would be able to do. no its been an ongoing issue for the last 5 months, havnt driven the car really. As soon as car overheated the once, pulled over and let it cool before driving back home. After replacing rad, kept bleeding system as thought I had an air lock after my rad decided to crack. since then seemed to have stopped overheating, can drive the car but as soon as I started to go over 4k revs, it over pressurised the coolant system and it ended in overflow tank. since then I've developed what seemed like a misfire when I go over 4k revs, so though spark plug or coil pack. Now coolant doesn't end up in overflow, I don't overheat, not losing coolant so no leaks, thought I had finally got rid of all the air and just now had the misfire issue. took it down to Horsham thinking right hopefully simple fix, they did a block test and came back with a blown gasket. recommended replacement engine. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bytespc Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 OK but my point still stands a blown gasket doesn't necessitate a replacement engine so the block itself must be toast, Horsham are brilliant so they must have given you a more considered diagnostic than just saying replace the engine. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryHippo Posted July 23, 2016 Author Share Posted July 23, 2016 I totally agree with you, a blown gasket doesnt necessarily mean a new engine. They just said my best option would be to replace the engine, they said it would cost the same, if not more to repair. I guess labour costs yes, they are probably right. They said they did the block test and exhaust gases were found in coolant hence blown gasket. I don't know, I'm not a mechanic and not pretending to be. All I can go off is what I'm told and advised by the people that do it for a living Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bytespc Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 alas our beloved requires the engine to be removed and then the sump off etc etc labour for that was £2000 ish in a 2011 thread , so replacement engine it is then, maybe Horsham would buy your old unit or offset some of the cost, what a bloody nightmare, feel for you bud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 So after multiple tests on the rad for hydrocarbons horsham test found it?? If the engine is done can you take pics of here it failed?? Also I assume your on a stock block?? I hope my HG has not gone as its a HKS stopper gaskets and ARP L19 studs which are just about as good as it gets ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizard Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 Bit late to the party. To the OP, I had the exact same issue with the Mishimoto rad overheating and it loosing water. Did turn out to be the cap, it's a design flaw. Sorry to hear about the HG, not had this issue yet, but blown motor so worse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snjur Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 Same here as well with Mishimoto rad, actually it was complete Mishimoto cooling system including radiator, fan shrouds and thermostat. I have lost 20 days and numerous working hours on bleeding system trying to figure out what is going wrong specially knowing how much attention was given to details. Went back to OEM rad and Fans and all the problems where gone... Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizard Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 Yeah I'm starting to think that OEM > Mishimoto. When I rebuild, I will get some other branded parts I think. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snjur Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 Yeah I'm starting to think that OEM > Mishimoto.When I rebuild, I will get some other branded parts I think. Thanks As I see cooling is sensitive subject on 350z. Reading as well on my350z in states people had same problems with overheating with Koyo radiators too. From 3 boosted Zed in our garage, i was the first who went non OEM cooling way and I was the obly one who experienced overheating problems. Other single boosted 800 bhp and Greddy twin turbo with 600 bhp no issues at all on OEM rads. Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 Im overheating on a 36mm koyo too? Im looking at a 53mm version next. I really really doubt OEM would take track abused for creating heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snjur Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 (edited) Im overheating on a 36mm koyo too? Im looking at a 53mm version next. I really really doubt OEM would take track abused for creating heat. Well as I see only radiator which was never mentioned in any issues with overheating is ARC. But.... Price tag is quite nice around 1600 usd. One of the first boosted Zed's in Croatia was build at Novidem in Swiss. On this build money was no issue. Same car was overheating as well and it was fitted with larger radiator. Car spent around month of time in Swiss to figure out why the car was overheating. Result was larger radiator. As i understood story for Zed is of vital imortance quick exchange of coolant between radiator and engine. Going with bigger radiator u r increasing volume of water and reducing this exchange. This Zed went on OEM radiator and was boosted with super charger, had telemetry suspension, Stoptech brakes, full Strosek OEM kit, all the fine goodies you can get at the time for Zed. Did numerus track day events, holds a record of fastest Croatian lap on Ring or at list it did till couple of years ago. All that on OEM radiator Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk Edited July 24, 2016 by Snjur 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 Ok fair enough! One thing to mention is us spec rads are 16mm vs 24 iirc for jdm cars! Not sure why they have bigger rad on jdm cars tbf? Water pump will keep flow through the block the same speed only change would be coolant sitting in rad for longer cooling down?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snjur Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 Haven't had idea about radiator difference. As for pump as i understand as you are increasing capacity of water than flow is bit reduced and this cycle of exchange between radiator and engine is with bigger volume disturbed as well. E.g as i have Haltech up i can monitor plenty parameters. With Mishimoto rad on, as soon as i push 2 3 4 gear coolant temp would jump to 107 degrees initiating fuel cut and rpm cut. Safety features of Haltech. In normal driving where flow of air was free over the front of the car i didnt notice any cahnges. But.. As soon as i get trailed behind lorries and with RPM's around 2500 I would notice gauge needle to point at midle of scale. Usually it always few mm below middle. Now when i put back OEM rad on even with repeated flooring till rev limiter throughout 2 3 4 5 gear i never got coolant temp over 97 degrees. Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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