docwra

Ooh look, beaten by seconds. the front is Varis, but its not that one with the lip, cant find any other pics

The sides are Varis, the bumpers look like these: http://www.nicedeals...oducts_id=10670

Which "Aircraft grade" would that be then? The one thats used on the wing spars or the foil over your in flight meal?? "Aircraft grade" doesnt actually mean anything, it covers all aluminium alloys used in building aircraft and there are a LOT. However .......... The difference is probbaly more down to the Eibachs being TuV and ISO approved, and being alloy rather than steel. As for spacers never failing ........ http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/167822-warning-aluminium-wheel-spacers.html I wouldnt buy anything other than H+R or Eibach myself, same as I wouldnt use remould tyres but its your decision

Mine suprised me on track as its got that other thing you need along with decent handling and a good power to weight ratio ........ drivability. Theres no point having 500hp and razor sharp handling if the thing is going to spit you into a ditch every time you turn left, the limits are attainable in the 350 without risking instant death like in some more exotic cars Ive driven. Ive passed a lot of considerably faster cars just through higher corner speed, straightline acceleration is relatively decent once its rolling anyay It also makes it much more fun as you can play with lines, braking points and attack angle without one hand clutching your rosary at all times, although TBF lighter cars are often better for that anyway

I laughed for about 10 minutes, the guy is a proper comedian. Straight lines get boring after youve driven 5/600hp cars, corners are always entertaining.

So, fast and cheap or practical and reliable then? 200SX, R33 Skyline = fast and cheap, for practical and reliable you cant look past the Scoob although a Leon is a good shout too Not really sure why we need the full spec list of that E36 up there but I bought a 328 for £300 the other day, spent £500 on a few bits and it was really nice. A bit boring, but nice

They always do it, once tried to tell me I needed new pads and discs on a set Id changed myself less than a month ago. Also failed to do up some wheel nuts properly, youre better off asking the guy who pushes the trolleys around Tesco carpark to fix your car IMO.

Dont immedately think you are being ripped off, I hit a BMW up the arse in an S14 200SX once - the bumper on the 200 was dented but there was no apparent damage to the Bimmer. Agreed that he would get it checked over, he came back saying it needed loads of work, my first thought was "taking the ****" As it happens it went to a mates bodyshop and really did have about 4K of damage, the 200 was written off as well, so about £7K from a 5mph shunt that didnt seem to hurt anything, its easily done.

8J ET20 is weak, TBH, you could arguably get away with spacing the front by 20mm and still be OK. Thats a 19x9 ET20 with a 245/35 tyre ....... the back is 19x10 ET20 with a 265/30. The front is effectively 13mm further spaced than you are proposing, the rear is 6mm

Something along those lines, I dont think youll have issues on track as its a lot smoother but with negative camber the inside turning tyre contact patch can get smaller particularly over bumps etc. The Wiki page is pretty good at explaining: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camber_angle but the bottom line is that the VDC kicks in a bit quicker than it probably has to, as with most OE traction control its a bit hamfisted. If you suffer the same issues on track then unplug the three plugs in the inner wing, bear in mind you wont have ABS or TC anymore though ........... Yeah, hanging in there as the Chairman these days .......... thought I recognised your name

Ive said it before and no doubt will again, offset figures are irrelevant without widths. If the wheels are 8J the relative offset on ET20 will be 25mm further in than where it would be on a 10J, you need to figure that bit out before looking at spacers.

Again, no disrespect but its a different thing, SX Dave is talking about the front wheels and not the rears. Turning the TCS off will stop it cutting in on the rears but doesnt have any effect on the front wheels, you need to unplug the ABS to make that happen

It only fires for a fraction of a second, not enough to stop the wheel moving but enough to move the weight of the car (I guess thats the idea) Try and provoke lift off oversteer on yours and you'll see what Im on about - the figuring out of how to turn off all stability control (three plug trick) came from this ruining a track session for me at Donington a couple of years ago, its very noticable. I should add again that Im running ridiculous tyre sizes so get it worse than most but it happens when you are off throttle and off the brakes, the car is doing it for itself.

Hi Dave, seeing as its you I thought Id post - the issue is ........